Adjusting my clutch engagement point

Irishes

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So I recently had my clutch replaced and since the repair, my clutch has been very stiff and engages almost at the top. I don't even need to push it all the way down. How can I adjust it so it engages closer to the floor? I'm driving a '94 Mustang GT. Thanks in advance.
 

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Maximum motorsports makes a firewall adjuster. While you're at it, buy their clutch quadrant, cable, and pedal height adjuster. It makes a world of difference


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Ferocious

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Are you running a stock cable/setup? I just did the exact opposite on mine this morning since I had too much slack.
However, my cable is adjustable.
 

Win

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So I recently had my clutch replaced and since the repair, my clutch has been very stiff and engages almost at the top. I don't even need to push it all the way down. How can I adjust it so it engages closer to the floor? I'm driving a '94 Mustang GT. Thanks in advance.


First off when pressing on the pedal it should have roughly 1/2" - 1" at the top of the resting position for the clutch. When you press on it you can tell when it starts to engage or create contact. Some people say 1-2".

Oem Cable

MM sport stuff

or a fiore kit is what you should get.

NEVER RUN A ADJUSTABLE CABLE. THERE AN ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN.
 

1994gt

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I bought the resto 5.0 cable that's adjustable along with the adjuster and quadrant. All complete junk!! I the ordered the maxim motorsports kit, non adjustable cable, with firewall adjuster and their quadrant and it's amazing should've gone that route in the beginning and recommend them for anyone doing a clutch in their car! Don't waste your money on the other kits.
 

Addermk2

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So I recently had my clutch replaced and since the repair, my clutch has been very stiff and engages almost at the top. I don't even need to push it all the way down. How can I adjust it so it engages closer to the floor? I'm driving a '94 Mustang GT. Thanks in advance.

You need to release the tension on the stock quadrant... Preferably before you destroy your TOB.
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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First off, when you had your clutch done, did the dude put in a new cable? If he did he likely used a cheapo parts store cable which is NOT a suitable replacement. There is also the TOB preload that you need to set and THIS is the point of a firewall adjuster, not to move the pedal engagement point up and down. Too much tension on the cable and you are putting your TOB though hell and potentially never letting your clutch fully engage. Too little tension and the TOB won't ride on the clutch fingers. This might sound like a good thing at first but the TOB is designed to ALWAYS be spinning. This is so whenever you push in the clutch the TOB isn't going from 0-6k (or whatever RPM you are shifting at) in a split second.

To set the correct TOB preload with an aluminum quadrant/firewall adjuster and stock cable you set the firewall adjuster to a loose setting and pull the dust shield off. Then, with the car up on ramps and the e-brake on and the wheels chocked AND a buddy in the car with foot on brake you crawl under the car with it running and shine a flashlight into the bell to see the TOB. Have a second buddy (or crawl out and DIY) start clicking the firewall adjuster tighter until the TOB just starts to spin. Then go one click tighter and that is your proper preload. If you want your pedal moved up or down besides this you need a clutch quadrant with 2 or 3 different hooks.
 

Aviator Guy

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First off, when you had your clutch done, did the dude put in a new cable? If he did he likely used a cheapo parts store cable which is NOT a suitable replacement. There is also the TOB preload that you need to set and THIS is the point of a firewall adjuster, not to move the pedal engagement point up and down. Too much tension on the cable and you are putting your TOB though hell and potentially never letting your clutch fully engage. Too little tension and the TOB won't ride on the clutch fingers. This might sound like a good thing at first but the TOB is designed to ALWAYS be spinning. This is so whenever you push in the clutch the TOB isn't going from 0-6k (or whatever RPM you are shifting at) in a split second.

To set the correct TOB preload with an aluminum quadrant/firewall adjuster and stock cable you set the firewall adjuster to a loose setting and pull the dust shield off. Then, with the car up on ramps and the e-brake on and the wheels chocked AND a buddy in the car with foot on brake you crawl under the car with it running and shine a flashlight into the bell to see the TOB. Have a second buddy (or crawl out and DIY) start clicking the firewall adjuster tighter until the TOB just starts to spin. Then go one click tighter and that is your proper preload. If you want your pedal moved up or down besides this you need a clutch quadrant with 2 or 3 different hooks.

Scotty thanks for this explanation, I am rebuilding a 5.0 litre to swap it on a 94 v6 and I have to change the clutch on her but I never done it before, I always have my cars with A/T, would you please let me know what TOB MEANS? Also what parts do I need to order to have a nice job done right from the beginning? The only part I bought was the clutch and I am ordering the scatter shield but don't have any idea what else to get.

thanks
 

slow5poh

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Does the mm few adjuster have a set screw to keep it from moving?
 

Caboose302

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I have the Steeda and it does. I still need to adjust the preload on mine too. The pedal vibrates when it's not engaged until I put pressure on it. I'd recommend getting a quadrant with a couple hooks. I didn't and I'm regretting it. It engages all the way at the top.
 

slow5poh

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Yeah, I had the steeda one before, but I was going to give the MM one a try, but It doesn't look like it has one so I wonder what keeps it from backing off
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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I have the Fiore micro click. It has ball bearings and no set screw. It clicks every time it turns and is THE best one on the market.
 

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