How are you guys upgrading your altenator lead? I'm getting some dimming and the altenator to fuse box is one of the only things I didn't upgrade. The only thing I worry about is there appears to be 2 fusable links in the altenator lead. So I don't think I can just replace the lead with say a big 1 gauge lead. Are you just running a second lead to the the positive battery post?
Alt lead
- Thread starter Insayne
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ttocs
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dimming problems are normally a sign of a bigger problem like low current caused by underdrive pullies or a bad alt unless you are running a high power stereo? If you are running underdrives you are doing so at while hurting your alt. By slowing it down it can't cool itself as well and its not uncommong to burn them out a couple years after the pullies are on.
If none of that is true, then maybe it is just a bad ground/charging system. Use a minimum 4 awg and be sure to fuse it as close as you can to the alt as well as close to the battery. While you are there upgrade the ground from the battery to the chassis(4-5 inches) and from the batt to the block.
If none of that is true, then maybe it is just a bad ground/charging system. Use a minimum 4 awg and be sure to fuse it as close as you can to the alt as well as close to the battery. While you are there upgrade the ground from the battery to the chassis(4-5 inches) and from the batt to the block.
I just replaced the two battery cables with 1 gauge replaced the engine to chasis ground with 1 gauge and added a duplicate on the opposite side. The stereo is all 2 gauge and I get dimming in a few songs. I don't have under drives but the alt could be dieing. I'd still like to beef up the alt wire.
Saint
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Heard of this a bunch
It's the voltage regulator in your Instrument cluster failing....No bs google it.
The part is no longer sold by ford your only hope is to get a new cluster or replace the components on the voltage regulator...eventually it will fry or simply fail causing a good alternator to no longer charge the battery because the voltage regulator in the instrument cluster completes the circuit for the green wire coming off the alternator harness
I've seen guys cars sit for months over this
best bet is to go pull a regulator from your year model at the junk yard. It's located on the back of the instrument cluster
My friend sanded every ground in his car and added grounds. Still had the lights dimming issue the culprit was the instrument cluster voltage regulator
Oh and if you want to upgrade your alternator power wire: I snatched my old one out ( with the bs fuse links) and Used true 4ga wire with an ANL in-line fuse (200amp) closest to the power box and an Installation Bay fuse holder for the best heat ventilation
I'll post pics tomorrow when it's not raining if you'd like
If your battery needle isn't bouncing with the dimming your insturment cluster should be fine
It's the voltage regulator in your Instrument cluster failing....No bs google it.
The part is no longer sold by ford your only hope is to get a new cluster or replace the components on the voltage regulator...eventually it will fry or simply fail causing a good alternator to no longer charge the battery because the voltage regulator in the instrument cluster completes the circuit for the green wire coming off the alternator harness
I've seen guys cars sit for months over this
best bet is to go pull a regulator from your year model at the junk yard. It's located on the back of the instrument cluster
My friend sanded every ground in his car and added grounds. Still had the lights dimming issue the culprit was the instrument cluster voltage regulator
Oh and if you want to upgrade your alternator power wire: I snatched my old one out ( with the bs fuse links) and Used true 4ga wire with an ANL in-line fuse (200amp) closest to the power box and an Installation Bay fuse holder for the best heat ventilation
I'll post pics tomorrow when it's not raining if you'd like
If your battery needle isn't bouncing with the dimming your insturment cluster should be fine
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
any of the stock power wires that are not hooked up will become the electrical choke point. If you do not upgrade the batt/chassis I would. If you need a large gauge ring terminal that will still fit on the alts lug I have some I can sell you.
Saint
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You have some that will still fit on the alt and fit the 4ga wire??? lol I spent days trying to find ring terminals like that then I fabbed my own
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
the same ring terminals are will work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-2-PHOEN...326?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415ff59d36
I think I even have some nice thick clear heat shrink I could include with it for $10 shipped. I will have to see if I can find the shrink but the terminals are new and unused. pm me if you want one or more I have a few of them(if anyone else wants one). These have the rings offset a little so that it will fit the lug on the alt and still clear the atl houseing so it will not short out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-2-PHOEN...326?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415ff59d36
I think I even have some nice thick clear heat shrink I could include with it for $10 shipped. I will have to see if I can find the shrink but the terminals are new and unused. pm me if you want one or more I have a few of them(if anyone else wants one). These have the rings offset a little so that it will fit the lug on the alt and still clear the atl houseing so it will not short out.
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Well so far I've replaced both batt leads and they are 1awg then I did the engine chassis grounds as 1awg also. If I'm not mistaken the power lead from battery to fuse block is a 2awg wire. So from this I'm assuming I could add a ground from battery to cassis in some 1awg and replace my alt lead with 1awg as well with an inline fuse. The reason I'm using the 1awg is because I can get some nice pre built wire with nice solid lugs on both ends for fairly cheap.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
there are not stock wires as thick as 2 awg that I remember.
