Ball joints and tie rods.

Insayne

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I'm doing a rack swap to a cobra rack cuz mine is bad. My plan was to replace the outer tie rods and ball joints with problem solver moogs but a friend of mine said I should go with the steedas which I really can't afford. I am planning to get a k member and go coilover later down the road so I'm thinking that would be the time to go with the bigger ball joints and tie rods. Let me know your input boys.
 

2slo95fiveoh

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do you have any play in your outer tie-rod ends now? If not, just swap them over to the Cobra rack and pinion and drive it like that for a while..
(don't forget to get it aligned)... The steeda tie rod ends are the "bump steer prevention" kits, and you may not run into significant bump
steer problems until the car is significantly lower (k-member, coilovers etc..) I'm unclear as to what you mean by "bigger ball joints", if
you don't have excessive play in your current ones then I wouldn't bother replacing them.. Save your pennies for a tubular front end
kit, in which the tubular A-arms would come with new ball joints already pressed in.
 
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Insayne

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I just mean the steed kits. You make valid points sir. I think the outer tie rods are in sub standard shape. I could always just buy the cheap brand of stuff. I just don't know how long it'll be till I can get tubular front end stuff.
 

JDwhite98gt

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Before you start replacing any parts just go over your existing stuff to make sure they are ok. Swapping inner/outter tie rods is still a breeze even after you already swapped the new steering rack. For outter tie rods, jack the ront end of the car up and place your hands at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and try to wiggle the wheel, you can also determine if the balljoints are bad this way tool, but make sure you give them a closer inspection before jumping to conclusions. Make sure the steering wheel is locked in place so you dont associate the actual turning of the wheel as "play". For the Inner tie rods, leave the car jacked up, and grap ahold of the inner rod itself. Try to pull it side to side (towards the wheel and back towards the middle of the rack. If you sense any movement/play then replace. If you arent experiencing any bumpsteer now then you can wait for the bumpsteer kit. Personally I would go with UPR's kit since it is cheaper....BUT, the part quality is sup-par. So, you can save money on the cheaper brand and then buy a new "joint" for it from a seperate company which will make it even better than any of the other expensive performance brands. PM Handz or look through his current threads, he replaced part of his UPR bumpsteer kit with new joints from an off-roading company and he claims that it made a night and day difference....I will do this sometime in the future also.
 
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Insayne

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Thanks I'm gonna go through it and check for play and save some cash. Off road company... Interesting idea.
 

JDwhite98gt

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Yeah it was a pretty neat idea. If you look up the bumpsteer kit, you can see how there is a heim(sp?) type joint where it connects to the steering knuckle, it's made in taiwan or china by 5 year olds and it gets very loose over time and you end up with more bumpsteer than with the stockers....thats the boat I'm in now. So instead of spending upwards of 200 for a name brand setup, I can spend 70 bux and just replace the ends with some high quality, high durability, REBUILDABLE parts from the good ol US of A
 

SRT Handz

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Just for the record, the Cheap UPR Chinese Rod End Broke my inner tie rob because it had place in the bushing.

I went with a VERY High quality Rod End from a company called FK, which sells the rod ends for Formula and Spec race cars.

check out this thread.

http://sn95forums.com/index.php?topic=59023.0
 

SRT Handz

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JDwhite98gt said:
Yeah it was a pretty neat idea. If you look up the bumpsteer kit, you can see how there is a heim(sp?) type joint where it connects to the steering knuckle, it's made in taiwan or china by 5 year olds and it gets very loose over time and you end up with more bumpsteer than with the stockers....thats the boat I'm in now. So instead of spending upwards of 200 for a name brand setup, I can spend 70 bux and just replace the ends with some high quality, high durability, REBUILDABLE parts from the good ol US of A

Are you gonna buy the FK Joints from Baker Precision? If so please up date with me on how that goes.... I wanna know other people's thoughts on the upgrade.
 

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