Bolt on non pi time

Discussion in 'Drag Racing' started by 96Mystic1189, Sep 11, 2016.

  1. 96Mystic1189

    96Mystic1189 Member

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    I would have thought that this topic would be beat up by now, but nobody really talks clearly about it on any of the forums. I want to at least run a 14.50 in my car before the head/cam swap. Does anybody see this possible with a 5 speed, 3.27s and all the typical bolt ons (cai,tb,plenum,offroad x,catback,pullies,canned tune)? How about in my loaded convertible with all the options?
     
  2. Frank.JD.Perez

    Frank.JD.Perez Well-Known Member

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    my step dad ran a 13.8 i think with drag radials and a completely stock npi engine with the frpp svo *cough DropTopPony* ... blower. i think if you do all that you can run what youre looking for

    his 98 was a vert with 373s and SFCs
     
  3. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    Those bolt ons are a great idea! And should be considered, if you ask me, after a pi intake and cam swap. At least do the pi intake!!

    The pi intake and a long tube headers will be the biggest bang for the buck.
     
  4. Musturd

    Musturd Legend

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    It should run a 14.50 like that no problem
     
  5. 96Mystic1189

    96Mystic1189 Member

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    Sweet. I have a set of pi heads, pi intake, and MHS stage 2.5 cams ready to go in by next spring. I just wanted to get a run in on one of these nice fall nights.
     
  6. g36 monkey

    g36 monkey Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    I think it's achievable, but the auto/vert might hold you back some.
     
  7. 96Mystic1189

    96Mystic1189 Member

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    Car is a 5 speed.
     
  8. 96Mystic1189

    96Mystic1189 Member

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    What rpm would be best to shift at? I know we drop off by 5500rpm, but should I rev it out to the full 6000rpm?
     
  9. g36 monkey

    g36 monkey Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Have you ever put the car on a dyno? If not, just use your peak torque level from the factory.

    Basically, you want to shift at whatever RPM would drop you back to your peak torque. To explain I will give some examples, note these are not real numbers.

    In this example you hit peak torque at 3000 RPM's.

    From 1st to 2nd, you lose 2,000 RPMS, so you would shift at 5,000 RPM

    2nd to 3rd you lose 3500 so you would shift at 6,500

    3rd to 4th you lose 1500 So you would shift at 4500.

    Again, this is going to take some practice on your part to determine what the drop is for you on a good shift, and determining where your peak torque is.
     
  10. Nighttrain

    Nighttrain Well-Known Member

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    You can shorten that ^ by double clutching
     
  11. g36 monkey

    g36 monkey Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    I tend to disagree. The only time I really recommend double clutching is on down shift, and even then it's more of a modified version where you just blip the throttle to get it where it needs to be. With modern syncro's there is little, if any, advantage to double clutching. Power shifting can help some (never lifting your go pedal) but I don't like the wear that tends to add.
     
  12. Tally_4.6

    Tally_4.6 Well-Known Member

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    No point in going to 6 grand, 5.5-5.7 is about the end.
     
  13. Nighttrain

    Nighttrain Well-Known Member

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    I see where you would think that, and its actually a common misconception. I drove for a living, where most of the time i shifted without ever using the clutch at all. Ive done that in my mustang as well and it is a testiment to the developement of synchrose, but i can reduce the time in half by double clutching in anything. Try pulling a mountain with 120,000 lbs behind you. When you have to shift fast, double clutching is the way to go.
     
  14. g36 monkey

    g36 monkey Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    That was just for a hypothetical model.

    You drove a truck, that did not have the same synchros and needed to be double clutched from the sounds of it. I think we might just have to agree to disagree here lol
     
  15. Nighttrain

    Nighttrain Well-Known Member

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    Ok lol.
    They are the same basic design though....just alot more of them
     
  16. 96Mystic1189

    96Mystic1189 Member

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    Any suggestion for an rpm to launch at for a starting point on street tires?
     
  17. Nighttrain

    Nighttrain Well-Known Member

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    You have to take in alot of variables, track condition, how warm are your tires, what kind of tires, what rear ratio are you running, all this stuff plays a part. Too high youll sit there and smoke em, too low youll bog the motor to much. My suggestion, go to the track and have fun finding out.
     
  18. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    Cut a window in the tranny bell housing. Install clutch adjusters. Buy a good clutch. Going this route allows the clutch to engage as it warms, not fully engaging when you dump it. Slipping is what you want because its more controllable.

    But you probably dont want to do this on a daily driven car...lol
     
  19. 96Mystic1189

    96Mystic1189 Member

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    I'll be the test mule. Lets find out what a 105k mile bolt on non pi will do!