Bought a stalled 95 GT project

  • Thread starter Deleted per request
  • Start date

RAU03MACH

Legend
Joined
Apr 23, 2019
Messages
6,740
Reaction score
6,564
Location
NEW MEXICO
i am running a comp cam with a little more lift int. exh.
for a 351.
if you were around 480 you could do stock size harden pushrods
you will need to put the tool to find the size you need
make sure you get harden push rods
 
OP
OP
D

Deleted per request

Guest
I'm not sure what the lift has to do with the length of push rod? My understanding is the lobe base side is the same regardless of lift. but that maybe incorrect, please clarify.
 

96blak54

Moderator
Staff
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
10,021
Reaction score
2,864
Location
In the shop
The sweep across the valve tip becomes uncentered with the higher lift cam. The rocker geometry has to be corrected. The Rocker tip contacting valve stem tip has this tiny bit of movement. It sweeps across the surface throught the lift movement and youll want to keep that sweep centered. Not centered, the pressures of the over sweep to one edge will cause premature wear.
 

96blak54

Moderator
Staff
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
10,021
Reaction score
2,864
Location
In the shop
Notice the valve stem tip in the center of the spring retainer. You can see the wear patern of the rockers tip. Shown is 2 scenarios. The bottom valve represents what you are wanting to achieve.

Staying stock has is positives. Stepping away from stock cam, valves, rockers all play apart in this

1000001823.jpg
 
OP
OP
D

Deleted per request

Guest
I understand the geometry on the valve stem, I did check it and it's pretty much centered as it should be. That's why i'm in this dilemma as to why the exhaust seemed loose until I torqued it to 20 lbs. Changed the cam lobe rise yes, does that also change the base height? If I try a crank/start wont this just be noisy valve train?
Not trying to be difficult here, just can't make sense of this????
 

RAU03MACH

Legend
Joined
Apr 23, 2019
Messages
6,740
Reaction score
6,564
Location
NEW MEXICO
so when the roller rocker strikes the top of the valve stem if the push rod is short
the rocker would be towards the back of the valve stem
if it is constant striking the rear of the valve stem than you would be wearing the spring out
you want it in the center of the valve stem for even wear
even if the push rod is to long it wears towards the front
 

jacobn4056.

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2024
Messages
164
Reaction score
27
I enjoy reading the builds that happen so here is mine on this 95 GT that I picked up where the complete top end was off for 3 yearsish. Guy lost interest and had to move when I swept in and bought it, a little bit of a crap shoot but thought there were enough new parts to get my cash back if it was a bust. It came with GT40P heads and intake, MAC headers, new 70mm throttle body, cold air intake, new cam with roller lifters, all the gaskets to but back together. All the original stuff came with it as well and new tires on the original wheels too.
View attachment 30948View attachment 30955View attachment 30949View attachment 30950View attachment 30951View attachment 30952
So once i cleaned out the pistons with the vac, air and then wiped oil in each cylinder until they came up clean, I threw the rebuilt heads on(new TF springs) and just set the rest to see what it would look like. Headers had to be clearanced on cylinder #3 runner for the reg. plug to fit. Needing to get ARP header bolts to finish install.
View attachment 30954
Thumbing through your pictures friend. I can’t stand that orange on this car. Blast it
Lol
 

jacobn4056.

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2024
Messages
164
Reaction score
27
I enjoy reading the builds that happen so here is mine on this 95 GT that I picked up where the complete top end was off for 3 yearsish. Guy lost interest and had to move when I swept in and bought it, a little bit of a crap shoot but thought there were enough new parts to get my cash back if it was a bust. It came with GT40P heads and intake, MAC headers, new 70mm throttle body, cold air intake, new cam with roller lifters, all the gaskets to but back together. All the original stuff came with it as well and new tires on the original wheels too.
View attachment 30948View attachment 30955View attachment 30949View attachment 30950View attachment 30951View attachment 30952
So once i cleaned out the pistons with the vac, air and then wiped oil in each cylinder until they came up clean, I threw the rebuilt heads on(new TF springs) and just set the rest to see what it would look like. Headers had to be clearanced on cylinder #3 runner for the reg. plug to fit. Needing to get ARP header bolts to finish install.
View attachment 30954
Maybe it’s red
 

jacobn4056.

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2024
Messages
164
Reaction score
27
I’m a cringy feeling character I guess.
I’ll be running tires Higher than stock
 
OP
OP
D

Deleted per request

Guest
The car parts came the red color, if you can't take the heads wait till the intake is on then there will be a big splash of red. 5.0 engines goes faster when they're red LOL. Just putting this engine back together to see what's there and how its going to run, not knowing the condition of the bottom end, compression or anything so it maybe all a crap shot anyhow.
 
OP
OP
D

Deleted per request

Guest
Well things are slowly moving along with this jigsaw puzzle. Have most of the pieces installed and figure out the wiring routing. Not sure what will need attention once I try to run it but need to get to a place where I can start it.
thumbnail (1).jpeg
 
OP
OP
D

Deleted per request

Guest
I have searched this forum for belt routing with smog pump removed and found stuff for the Foxbody but nothing for the 5.0 SN95. The Sn95 5.0 has both the idler and tensioner pulleys where the Foxbody has only the tensioner in the idler location of the Sn95. So I'm having a tough time deciding on how the belt needs to be run as its very close to when going around the water pump and it seems that the tensioner will have very little travel for tightening the belt. Any ideas and or a diagram to show me what others are doing would help, thanks
 
OP
OP
D

Deleted per request

Guest
Awesome thank you!!
Now I need to know if there is a separate wiring harness for the electric fan and over flow canister? I checked everywhere and don't see anything that can reach that far or is unused???
 

Musturd

Post Whore
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
10,463
Reaction score
2,191
Awesome thank you!!
Now I need to know if there is a separate wiring harness for the electric fan and over flow canister? I checked everywhere and don't see anything that can reach that far or is unused???
It should be up front there it’s not a seperate harness
 
OP
OP
D

Deleted per request

Guest
Okay good news...I think. Would it be part of the one that goes across the rad support? Thinking maybe I missed seeing the connections and they got tucked in behind rad or condensor. These are issues when one hasn't taken it apart and have no idea as to what went where.
 

Musturd

Post Whore
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
10,463
Reaction score
2,191
Okay good news...I think. Would it be part of the one that goes across the rad support? Thinking maybe I missed seeing the connections and they got tucked in behind rad or condensor. These are issues when one hasn't taken it apart and have no idea as to what went where.
Yea it should be in with that harness . My shops like a 1/4 mile from the house or I’d walk over and take some pictures for ya
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
77,480
Messages
1,503,323
Members
14,950
Latest member
JohnnyMac

Members online

Top