Buying a 95 GT Vert Tomorrow

Mustang_Sally · Dec 8, 2012

Well the 98 met it's demise at the careless hands of a Subaru driver. So then came the hunt for a replacement.

I've had the V-6 for a year and a half, and am ready for more power. I found a local dealer selling a 1995 GT Vert with 120k for $3000. Took a ride to check her out, and realized I don't know dick about what i'm looking for.

So my question to you is, what specifically do I need to look for on these 95 five-o's to ensure i'm not getting a headache for 3 grand?

tl;dr What should I look for when looking to buy a 95 GT?

96TANGERINEGT · Dec 8, 2012

It's really hard to try and tell someone what to look for other then the obvious .
Like maybe oil leaks , look at the coolant make sure it looks good with no oil in it ( almost look like chocolate milk ) that means not good by the way .. any noises coming from engine . Or frame damage , but that's something that is hard to spot unless u know what to look for .

That's not much help I know , but hope it helps . Maybe find someone that knows something about cars to look at it with u ...

Good luck on ur new purchase

Bald 'n Gimpy · Dec 8, 2012

Hard to say, and too much to type from a phone. Above is a good start though.

With cars like this, and this age, it's almost a "go with your gut" and what your goals are.

Twista · Dec 8, 2012

i went from a 4.6L to a 5.0L also.

I would rather have a 4.6L.

All im saying. Good luck

edit: i see you had v6 before.. so going to a v8 should be better. GET her if everything checks out

Mustanger · Dec 8, 2012

In your position it sounds like you need to take the car to a neutral shop for a thorough checkout. It will be WELL worth the $50-100 bucks to save you some very real problems. They can do the normal stuff like checking out the brakes & rotors, tires, alignment, coolant & oil leaks, suspension components transmission issues like shifting smoothly, signs of abuse or having been in a wreck, frame bent, worn safety items, differential leaks or bearing problems, they will check the steering for looseness & worn bushings....an hour well spent if you know someplace trustworthy. No reputable seller will object to a licensed or certified shop looking the car over.

John Nich · Dec 8, 2012

anticipate the suspension to be totally shot, and the convertible top to leak and the brakes to suck.. if it does need those..the price just doubled unless you do the work yourself.

Slykin · Dec 9, 2012

1. Test drive it and listen for any weird noises, especially from the transmission. The T-5's are kind of sucky transmissions, and it's quite possible that it will have a whine to it if it's on its way out. Also listen for chirps or squealing from the clutch area. If you can stop any noises by lightly touching the clutch your TOB/Pilot bearing(I don't remember which) is going bad. This is assuming of course it's a 5spd. You should also be able to hear any exhaust leaks, suspension noises, rattles on the test drive too.

2. Take a good look in the engine bay for leaked fluids, dirt build up, rust etc. I usually check the radiator to make sure it's clean, and where you pour in the oil to see if there's any build up.

3. Make sure the brake rotors aren't eaten up and, obviously, pay attention to them on the test drive.

4. Check that your top goes up and down easily, and also your rear quarter windows, those can have issues and aren't particularly easy to fix.

Umm, let's see. Check the bottom of your radiator support to make sure it's not banged to hell, look at your subframes and rocker panel seams to make sure they're straight, and look for any obvious cases of rust. That's about all I can think of.. pretty much the same stuff I'd look at for any car.

John Nich · Dec 9, 2012

Slykin said:
Umm, let's see. Check the bottom of your radiator support to make sure it's not banged to hell, look at your subframes and rocker panel seams to make sure they're straight, and look for any obvious cases of rust. That's about all I can think of.. pretty much the same stuff I'd look at for any car.

Oh yeeeesss.
When I took a look at my Rad Support I was Shocked that my A/C still blew cold. That thing got BASHED on the bottom by the previous owner. I replaced the rad just in case because I was concerned about Tranny fluid mixing with The Coolant.

CC'S95GT · Dec 9, 2012

Definately get a car fax report first.
The most common things that go out on the 5.0 are the PIP inside the dizzy and the harmonic balancer. t-5's can be finicky sometimes too.

The pip/dizzy can't really tell if it's on it's way out or not. Just ask if it's already been shanged out.
The HB, can be seen as wobbling while the engine is running or some rubber squeezing out between the inner and outer hub when not running. (more easily seen from under the car).

My 5.0 has over 200,000 miles and I would be afraid to drive it coast to coast tomorrow. and I have to pass an emissions test every year.

MustangChris · Dec 9, 2012

gas filler tube gasket,
antifreeze overflow tank,
harmonic balancer,
cracked cowel cover,
ball joints

John Nich · Dec 10, 2012

Hmm....I wonder if She bought it or not?

Mustang_Sally · Dec 15, 2012

Purchased! I'll have some pics after the snow melts. She runs great, but is not with out a few issues. I purchased it on Tuesday the 11th for $2900.

Driving it home from Albuquerque I noticed the Check Engine Light come on for about 10 seconds and then flash off, happens about once a day.

Got a Low Coolant light this morning on start up, didn't notice any fluid on the ground, but it sits on dirt, could've been absorbed. The Rad was full, but had an empty overflow tank, keeping my eyes peeled for anything fishy.

Last but not least the T5, Not a bad shifting AOD however there seems to be a lag from 2nd to 3rd.

Overall clean ride, well taken care of, completely stock, i'm happy!

Thanks for all the advice fellas!

CC'S95GT · Dec 15, 2012

get them pics up ASAP.
get the codes read. (The OBD1 plug is in the engine bay by the back of the r/h shock tower) The ECU has a memory and will store codes for a certain amount of time.

The low coolant sensor is in the expansion tank. Keep an eye on it, the water pump may be leaking but evaporating before hitting the ground.
If it were me, I'd replace the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter, and clean the MAF and IAC.