Calling ALL F250 owners

lwarrior1016

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Hey guys and gals, I need the attention of everyone that owns a F250/350 from 1999-present.

Edit: this procedure requires a special axle nut tool. I bought mine from Advance Auto.

I recently noticed a diff oil leak on my right rear wheel. It was light but progressively got worse. So today I decided to pull it apart and put a new seal in it. It’s not a tough job and there are some pretty good videos on it.

When I went to tear it apart, I found the rear wheel bearings were loose and there was play in the hub. Since we have a full floating axle, we have tapered roller bearings and hubs back there. I pulled it apart, replaced the seal, and reassembled everything. Then I got to thinking, maybe I should check the other side.

So I pulled the wheel, pulled the caliper off, pulled the rotor, then pulled the axle out the end. Sure enough, that wheel bearing set was flopping around too. So that bearing had to be tightened back up as well.

Now I started searching on line and apparently this is something that needs to be checked and adjusted periodically. I had no idea, and had never done this.

Moral of the story here is, plan to adjust your rear wheel bearings every now and then. I think it’s like 50k mile intervals. If you don’t adjust these, the inner bearing race will spin on the hub and eat it up, then you have to replace the hub on the axle housing.

I know this is a lot to read. I’ll post the procedure for doing this in the next post. I found a good write up on one of the ford truck forums.

And now the obligatory picture:
IMG_2716.jpeg
 
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lwarrior1016

lwarrior1016

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Copied from the truck forum:

From the 2014 Ford Service DVD for the Ford Sterling axle.

NOTICE: Under no circumstances are power tools to be used when carrying out these operations or damage to the component may occur.

NOTICE: The wheel hub nut should not ratchet as it is tightened. If it does, check the Ford Axle Locknut Socket tabs for wear. They should be a minimum of 5.08 mm (0.2 in) or damage to the components can occur.

NOTE: Apply inward pressure to the socket to separate the ratcheting components of the hub nut.

Using the Ford Axle Locknut Socket, tighten the wheel hub nut, rotating the rear wheel hub occasionally while tightening.

Tighten to 95 Nm (70 lb-ft).

Using the Ford Axle Locknut Socket, back off the hub nut 180 degrees.


NOTE: Apply inward pressure to the socket to separate the ratcheting components of the hub nut.

Tighten the hub nut to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).

To verify that there is no side-to-side end play, attach a magnetically mounted dial indicator to the spindle end and place the dial indicator tip on the outboard surface of the wheel hub. Check for side-to-side end play.

Final bearing adjustment has zero end play.
 

ttocs

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I can just imagine the look of "That just doesn't seem right?!?!" that this led to for me anyway as well as the good feeling of checking the other side to find the same in time to correct it.
 
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lwarrior1016

lwarrior1016

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Lwarrior.....doesnt your truck have like half a million miles? I know its up there and you maintain it well
It’s around 370k miles on it. I swapped that rear axle around 300k, and I don’t know the miles on it. I just didn’t know this was something that needed to be checked.
 
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lwarrior1016

lwarrior1016

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I can just imagine the look of "That just doesn't seem right?!?!" that this led to for me anyway as well as the good feeling of checking the other side to find the same in time to correct it.
That’s exactly what happened. I pulled the axle out, since the seal was leaking, and when that rear hub was knocking around, I knew something was wrong. Just didn’t really know this needed to be checked.
 

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