can't get the rear calipers apart

ttocs

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my brakes have been fighting me every step of the way. Took 24hrs of soaking with penetrating oil and then a good blow with the hammer on the ratchet to get the bolts loose. Now that I have them out I can't get the cylinder apart. The fronts came apart fine but the rears do not want to move. Everything I have found says to hook the compressor up to them and pop them out but I have given them full air and all it does is blow the line out of the back. Is there something I am missing?
 

mcglsr2

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I've never actually disassembled my rear calipers before. When I get home tonight I'll look through the manual and see if there's any help there.
 

ttocs

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I looked through my orange OEM manual and on youtube. Both showed just hooking an air line up and it pops right out.
 

1bad95

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Pretty sure you need to get the rear caliper tool. Where if you were reinstalling g pads you would screw it back in, I think you go the opposite and unscrew the piston to remove from caliper

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nitroram33

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Yeah, since the rears screw in and out and yours are seized up pretty good too from the sound of it, you're going to need to get them turning first and then rinse and repeat with the air and the compression tool until they come out.
 

CC'S95GT

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Is the bleeder vlv loose. gotta ask.
Reconnect the brake lines and use the break pedal.
Obviously don't put them back on the rotor but you might want a thinner block of wood in the caliper so the piston doesn't out all at once and splatter fluid everywhere.
 

mcglsr2

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The manual here says to essentially use the rear caliper adjuster tool to back the the piston out. Basically, instead of seating it in the bore (like you would if you were putting on new pads), instead turn counter-clockwise until you can remove it from the bore. It doesn't say anything about compressed air - maybe that's a quick way, but not sure how it could work if the manual expects you to have to turn it. I guess if the threads on the push rod are effed, then maybe compressed air will pop it out. But if the threads are good, I can't see how compressed air will do it - but I can see how turning it counter-clockwise will work. Then again, I'm basing this off the manual - I have not done it myself.
 

1bad95

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thats what i was saying, i didnt understand trying to force it out with air like the front calipers can be, but i def dont know everything about all this stuff.
 

ttocs

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I will see if I can rent/borrow the tool from vatozone tomorrow then thanks. They move just a tad but not much so they are not totally frozen but bad enough. The car has been sitting now for over a year, probably a good thing I am going over the brakes from start - end. Right now the booster and everything under the hood has not yet been reinstalled so I can't use any of that to do it as suggested.
 

mcglsr2

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Good luck, ttocs!

Depending on how bad they are, I have a set of calipers that might be for sale. I'm almost 100% they are the cause of this moaning noise I've had on the rear for quite a while now. I bought new calipers. Wasn't sure what I was going to do with the rears - I'm willing to sell them for a really good price, as long as the buyer understands that they need a rebuild. When I first did the rear pads, I didn't realize I had to turn the piston. So I used a regular C-clamp. I'm almost positive I damaged them and thus the moaning sound. I don't know if a rebuild will fix it but I don't see why not, as the caliper casting is not damaged. They have probably less than 10,000 miles on them, if that. Most likely even less.

If you are rebuilding your rears anyway, and the ones you have are causing you grief, you interested in the ones I have? I can take a couple pics for you if you want.
 

ttocs

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If they don't come apart I will keep you in mind and let you know. Hell nothing on tv now anyway I think I will make a trip to see if they have the tool.
 

mcglsr2

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What's it look like? Does it look like this -->
Disc-Brake-Caliper-Tool-Set-HX-AUT002-.jpg
 

nitroram33

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Hopefully it looks like that or it probably won't work lol, my cube type didn't work on the Mustang's rear so I had to go rent a kit like that from Advanced. Basically, you find the circular adapter that fits into the grooves on the caliper piston and attach it to the bottom of the screw. You then take the one shaped like a brake pad and slide it over the T-handle of the screw by sliding the handle back and forth a bit. Then you place the assembled contraption into the caliper and snug it up. Normally you turn clockwise to compress it, but since you're wanting to take the piston out you're going to want to turn it counter-clockwise. You'll probably get to hold the brake pad looking part in place with the second hand because since you aren't tightening it won't tighten up again the inside of the caliper where the pad normally goes.
 

mcglsr2

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When backing out the piston you shouldn't need the brake pad shaped plate. That's used only when seating the piston. You just need the correct sized circular adapter, and the screw thingie that attaches to it via the little nubs. Then just turn counter-clockwise, like you are unscrewing a bolt.
 

nitroram33

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When backing out the piston you shouldn't need the brake pad shaped plate. That's used only when seating the piston. You just need the correct sized circular adapter, and the screw thingie that attaches to it via the little nubs. Then just turn counter-clockwise, like you are unscrewing a bolt.

Yeah, you don't need it, but I've found it gives a little more area to hold onto to keep the thing straight on to the piston if you put it on the outside of the caliper and hold it with your free hand.
 

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