Car acting like it’s starving of fuel when driving

RAU03MACH

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There are not very many aftermarket distributors out there
DAVIS ,CARDONE ,MSD ACCEL. MALLORY, MOTORCRAFT
That's about it that i can think of
 
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D

devvy

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Here is an older thread to read

Thank you. I guess I'll check out my distributor. I'm also gonna replace all my wires while I'm at it.
 

96blak54

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Replacing your harness is a good move especially if you plan keeping the car for any number of years. Our cars are touching 30yrs old and most have never seen a climate controlled garage, preserving their vitals. Use and age alone breaks down the wiring harness and can cause all kinds of issues back to back.
 

Daryl

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Replacing your harness is a good move especially if you plan keeping the car for any number of years. Our cars are touching 30yrs old and most have never seen a climate controlled garage, preserving their vitals. Use and age alone breaks down the wiring harness and can cause all kinds of issues back to back.
Truth! And in human years our cars are 90!
 

Daryl

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There are not very many aftermarket distributors out there
DAVIS ,CARDONE ,MSD ACCEL. MALLORY, MOTORCRAFT
That's about it that i can think of
PDI hot forged distributor + Screamin’ Demon coil + Ford Performance 8.5mm wires. Works like a champ! ;-)
 

weendoggy

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Hello! Since wednesday night i’ve been trying to figure out what’s causing my car to act like it’s starving of fuel. It will barely want to accelerate no matter how much throttle i’m giving it, then it’ll randomly kick in and accelerate normally for a second, then go back to sputtering. Every once in a while it will just start driving normally for a few mins then go back to struggling. When i’m coming out of a stop it almost dies, drops down to like 800 rpm and really struggles to get back up. I assumed a clogged fuel filter, just replaced it, it did absolutely nothing to help. Spark plugs were replaced like 2 months ago so I doubt that’s the issue. All vacuum lines looked fine from the eye except for the hose to the left of the evap solenoid, looked pretty messed up. The car starts up fine, but idles a bit low and rough at times which only started happening since all this happened. I can hear the fuel pump prime but maybe it’s just not giving enough fuel under load? Any ideas?
If this is for a 5.0 Fox body style engine, I have an old distributor sitting on my bench (can't throw crap away) and if it can be used to test/fix your problem, I'll send it your way. I took it out of a circa' 90's engine that was in a Cobra (Factory Five) and put a Sniper system and new engine is. It was running at the time.
 

RAU03MACH

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I dont think he knows witch distributor he has
Cap is probably different rotor
Hei or tfi
 

duh09

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Replacing the PIP inside the distributor is not a particularly hard job, but you'll basically being pull the distributor completely apart and hoping that it comes apart for one, and that everything else inside it will be ready to roll. I recently had to completely replace a distributor in my Cobra because it was legit frozen to the block and I snapped it trying to get it out. To put it simply, gear comes off shaft, everything up top comes off, shaft comes out, PIP is hiding at the bottom of the dizzy. PIP alone from RockAuto looks to be around the $30 mark.


If you're slapping a dizzy in, OE replacements seem to be the best bet for our cars. I've seen more "performance" distributors cause more problems than a standard style replacement.

I've ran 3 of these on different cars at this point and have had good luck out of them:

I suspect this one from RockAuto for many dollars less is the same part:

Buying local gets it in your hands faster and also has a better warranty and easier swapping if there are problems later on down the road - but half price is hard to argue. I work for the big green so I'm biased, but that unit has served me well.

Avoid the reman'ds. There's not a huge price difference, but I've seen a few reman'd come back with some goofy problems that should have been caught before they were ever boxed up. Plus this new one with a cap/rotor comes out cheaper if you're slapping a cap/rotor on it as well.

Failing PIPs can cause some issues similar to what you're facing, but it's hard to really diagnose over a keyboard. Good luck with it.
 

weendoggy

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OK, what I have is a OEM distributatoring sparking delivery item that is off a Mustang EEC-IV EFI, TFI and any other FI you want to put. It has a Standard TFI module (attached style) on it and a new MSD rotor, sorry, no cap, which is the short top crew-cut style. The offer still stands. Not sure how much a "new" re-man costs, but you can bet it's less than store bought. OK, I'm done.
 

Daryl

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Definitely avoid the reman’s when it comes to dizzy’s. You might get away with it on a starter or alternator, but as mentioned above the price isn’t that different and “you get what you pay for” runs true. Trust me on this one!
:-(
 

RAU03MACH

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I'll never forget the MSD distributor I bought off a buddy
10 bucks
It caught on fire and melted all the internals and cap rotor pickup
I took it apart rebuilt it polished it back up
It's on my 5.0 now still works
 

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