car dies- rough idle

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by shrades79, Feb 28, 2006.

  1. shrades79

    shrades79 Member

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    i drove my car around for about 40 mins today with the temp 75 degrees outside and the temp gauge on the car on the r for normal...i went to a friends house let it sit for about 15 mins..started the car back up and it died so i started it again and again it died so the last time i started it i had to keep giving it gas to keep it running and had a rough idle shook the whole car once i started moving it stoped...i had this problem last summer had the timing adjusted with a tune and thought it was fixed.. any sugestions?
     
  2. badass98svt

    badass98svt Well-Known Member

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    try cleaning your iac
     
  3. shrades79

    shrades79 Member

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    may sound stupid but whats the iac?
     
  4. badass98svt

    badass98svt Well-Known Member

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    it looks like this.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POLI...33553QQitemZ8041138299QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

    it's right buy your throttle body.


    IAC: Idle Air Control valve

    unbolt it from the car. just two bolts. i think they are 8 mm. remove the iac and spray the inside with throttle body cleaner.cover the holes with your palm and shake it. dump out the cleaner and do it a couple more times.
    put that sucker back on their and see how much better she runs.


    o clean my IAC religiously
     
  5. ryclef331

    ryclef331 Well-Known Member

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    Idle air control valve. Its on the side of the throttle body. Its one of the two electronic components bolted to it. The other being the Throttle Postion Sensor. You can easily take it off. Two 8mm bolts and I believe you have to pop the TPS Sensor off as well (two phillips screws). I'd also clean your MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor). Take a q-tip and some alcohol and GENTLY clean the two small filaments inside of it. It maybe over your head but checking the TPS voltage is another big help. People will argue that the SN95's computer automatically configures itself when you start the car but that still doesn't mean that the sensor isn't shot. These are the most common idle problems that occur with our cars...or any 5.0 for that matter.
     
  6. Matt94GT

    Matt94GT Legend SN95 Supporter Retired Staff

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    Sounds like it could be a fuel problem possibly, does your car seem to run better with a full tank of gas? Your fuel pump might be on its way out?

    I would clean your IAC, and your MAF as well.
     
  7. shrades79

    shrades79 Member

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    i havnt noticed a difference with a full tank of gas but i do have to run 89 octane most the time because its the highest avaible in my area 32 miles to get 91... i have cleaned my MAF and ill try cleaning the IAC thanks guys
     
  8. shrades79

    shrades79 Member

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    "It maybe over your head but checking the TPS voltage is another big help."

    more info on this i do have a voltage problem with my car too... while it had a rough idle the voltage gauge was jumping with the rpms...at night with the lights on at a stop light voltage drops all the way down to about 9 just bairly above the 8...have anything to do with it or is it a different problem? thanks for your help
     
  9. Stock Stang

    Stock Stang New Member

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    heres a step by step guide to fixing your idle problems. Its well pictured and and has good directions.
    Just click through the pages it tells you how to clean your
    IAC , Throttle Body, MAF, Reseting the Base Idle, TPS voltage, how to clean the MAF wire :D

    http://www.muscularmustangs.com/iac.php
    (forgot the link the first time :slap:)
     
  10. QIKGTS

    QIKGTS Member

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    stockstang, you have no link in the post...

    BTW to see if this is related to battery voltage:

    Charge up that battery until its good and hot then make sure the battery is good. To do that, put it on a 2 amp charger for 20-24 hours then let sit for another 24 hours and check the voltage. It should be right around 12.6 or better. If not, it's no good and you will chase your tail looking for a problem. After it's charged and you verified the voltage, then load test it. You will have to go to an autoparts store or garage if you don't have a load test "toaster". Only look for problems after you eliminate the battery as one.

    You should also have the alt checked once you get the batt all figured out.
     
  11. wiplash

    wiplash New Member

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    After hearing about the voltage problem my guess is also the alternator. Or belt that runs the alt. If the belt is slipping it may cause that also, but for sure after the battery check the alternator.
     
  12. badass98svt

    badass98svt Well-Known Member

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    why do all that with the battery first? when he can clean his IAC in 2 minutes. i'd be willing to go with iac
     
  13. ryclef331

    ryclef331 Well-Known Member

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    I'm calling BS on the voltage being the problem. I have underdrive pulleys on my car and I can have the lights on, radio on, and heat blasting...the volts will get to like 9.3-10 at idle. Blip the throttle, lights brighten up and I'm gone. Read the link that Stock Stang posted. DO IT STEP BY STEP. It works miracles. I got my 331 with heads, cam, intake, 30lb injectors, and ProM MAF to idle like a stocker...cept with a really cool lump. ALL with a factory tune. You can get this yourself. These are themost common problems.
     
  14. NITROUSINJECTED

    NITROUSINJECTED Active Member

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    hell with it pull the motor and just rebuild it
     
  15. Lightning Struck

    Lightning Struck Legend

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    sounds like a good idea to me ;)