ttocs
Post Whore
so just to clarify it dies with just the fan on, or the fan with the windows/brakes? I am still at the point that I would try a different fan, or the harness going to the one you have.
This just happened to my car last year and over heated the car. 115 in PHX this kicked off my rebuild.I thought the harness going to some fans was known to get hot and melt causing some connection issues. Its either that harness or the fan.
by "draw" I assume you mean what the fan is consuming/drawing. To test current with a traditional meter you need to disconnect one of the power wires to the fan and then insert the amp meter between the disconnected wires. They do make clamp/induction meters that can read current by putting a ring around the power wires but for DC they can get a bit pricey. My idea of powering the fan from a different power source was the easiest way I could think to do it.Hey toccs, is there an amp draw test? I've had alts blow their breaker when they are internally shorting under load only, but not stalling due to amp draw. It's does seem plausible that is occurring as even new parts can often be faulty.
be sure that it can read DC current with the clamp as well. I have one that will only do ac clamping that I didn't realize till I tried it out finally.Hmm, I gotta get one of those clamp style meters...