ttocs
Post Whore
so just to clarify it dies with just the fan on, or the fan with the windows/brakes? I am still at the point that I would try a different fan, or the harness going to the one you have.
Car is tuned, runs great, at idle it dies when all the electronics are on
- Thread starter Makoto
- Start date
Adfalenski
Member
If the battery was disconnected or ECM were unplugged for a long period of time, the ECM memory battery could have died and lost your sensor mapping. That takes the ECM back to the factory base tune. The factory base tune may not allow for the heavy load and therefore idle is dragged down. The factory ECM takes up to 200 miles and/or approximately 10 cold to hot engine cycles to repopulate/reprogram the sensor map.
Last edited:
RAU03MACH
Legend
I remember there was a recall at one time for the fan circuit
They were having melting harness and relays
Mine never had that problem I still have my recall letter to this day
They were having melting harness and relays
Mine never had that problem I still have my recall letter to this day
RAU03MACH
Legend
If it ain't broke dont fix it
Recall my ass
Recall my ass
engine bay. JLT intake, sealed off pretty good to the fender well. IAT sensor is nestled under the pipe so it probably is taking in too much radiant heat but the issues aren't heatsoak related as verified by cold engine with the hotwired fan. funny thing is it was only the low speed circuit causing the real issue and since that was never wired up correctly (when i got the car it had no plug for the fan) the high speed was always going.
I'm throwing a brand new fan into it this morning. I figure even if the fan is okay its cheap insurance to keep me from having issues down the line.
I'm throwing a brand new fan into it this morning. I figure even if the fan is okay its cheap insurance to keep me from having issues down the line.
Update: new fan didn't solve the problem
if you stand on the brakes at idle with the fan on it'll die
if you use the AC, lights, and roll up the windows with the fan on it'll die
cracking the throttle prevents dying, err go, she needs more air to keep from stalling which is exactly what the IAC is for.
i talked with the tuner. after i get it all sorted and tagged he said to bring it by and if I haven't figured it out by then he'll see what he can do.
if you stand on the brakes at idle with the fan on it'll die
if you use the AC, lights, and roll up the windows with the fan on it'll die
cracking the throttle prevents dying, err go, she needs more air to keep from stalling which is exactly what the IAC is for.
i talked with the tuner. after i get it all sorted and tagged he said to bring it by and if I haven't figured it out by then he'll see what he can do.
ttocs
Post Whore
what rpm does it idle at?
07GtS197
Well-Known Member
That still sounds electrical to me. What is the voltage as it’s dying? I had a failing alternator in my 02 that was like that. It would idle all day long no problem but I started having issues like the radio not powering up. Then if I were to turn on the ac it would die. I finally tracked it down to the alternator by watching the voltage while I turned on the ac. Good for thought.
It still could be the iac, I’d still have the tuner look at it for sure to cover everything.
It still could be the iac, I’d still have the tuner look at it for sure to cover everything.
Chenn2389
Active Member
This just happened to my car last year and over heated the car. 115 in PHX this kicked off my rebuild.
Chenn2389
Active Member
What year is the car? I know base idle reset procedure for mine asks to unplug battery 30 mins to clear the ecu memory. Unplug IAC and start car set the mechanical idle speed and shut off the car. Plug the IAC in with all electronics and AC off and start the car and let it idle for 2 mins and then shut it off again. Then start the car with all the electronics on and the AC which will kick on your high speed fan and let it idle for 2 mins. This allows the car to learn the idle characteristics with no load and full load.
ttocs
Post Whore
I thought he said voltage was fine when the fan kicks on but I wonder if there is just not enough current being produced. When the fan kicks on that is the highest current draw for the fan. Now that we have tried 2 fans assuming the 2nd was good then its not that. You bypassed the CCRM so its not that. Just out of stupidity is it possible for you to power the fan up off of a separate battery/power source while the car is running? If you could do that and it stays running then I think we can say its a current problem that the alt just isn't supplying, if it dies then maybe we have something in the tune or some strange EMF interference.
Hey toccs, is there an amp draw test? I've had alts blow their breaker when they are internally shorting under load only, but not stalling due to amp draw. It's does seem plausible that is occurring as even new parts can often be faulty.
ttocs
Post Whore
by "draw" I assume you mean what the fan is consuming/drawing. To test current with a traditional meter you need to disconnect one of the power wires to the fan and then insert the amp meter between the disconnected wires. They do make clamp/induction meters that can read current by putting a ring around the power wires but for DC they can get a bit pricey. My idea of powering the fan from a different power source was the easiest way I could think to do it.
I am not so concerned with what the fans have been drawing assuming the 2nd was good(which could be wrong). I am more concerned with how much current the alt can supply. Current and voltage are two different things and I just wonder if it puts out 12v, but not enough current to drive the fan.
ttocs
Post Whore
you could test what the alt is putting out with the same process of inserting an amp meter after disconnecting the +12v wire to the al or if you have a clamp meter by clamping the + wire
ttocs
Post Whore
be sure that it can read DC current with the clamp as well. I have one that will only do ac clamping that I didn't realize till I tried it out finally.
Adfalenski
Member
A good charging system puts out 14.5 volts DC. Check with your local Ford dealership. If your charging system is putting out 12 volts DC, you have a bad charging system. Take your car to the local auto parts chain store and get your charging system checked for free. For that matter, check the voltage on your buddy’s car.
ttocs
Post Whore
he has already tested to show it has 14v when charging I just question if it is supplying enough current.
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
Why does my car shake when letting off the clutch in first gear
- Latest: Joeminnesota
-
-