CEL 212 No spark after it dies? HELP PLEASE!!!

[wannaboost94gt]

I have replaced the coil, Ignition module, the dizzy, and the plugs. :BangHead: The engine was just swapped so do you think it could be a wiring issue? :dontknow: It's wierd because I replaced the dizzy last night and it seemed fine drove it for like an hour didn't die, then on my way to work it died after 10 minutes? I am very frustrated I can't figure it out. The battery is very dead and not holding a charge I am going to replace it tonite do you think that could be the problem? Anybody feel free to throw out suggestions I am lost. :crybaby2:

 

[CC'S95GT]

Are you sure the battery is the prob and not the alternator?
Alt. output should be @ 14.5 vdc with the engine running.
The car runs off of the alternator. The battery is there for starting, back up pwr (if alt dies), and keep alive memory.
Ck all the grounds and Pos. cable connections. Make sure the Pos wire on the alt isn't shorting to the alt case.

 

[wannaboost94gt]

It says its charging fine, the battery doesn't hold a charge at all I crank it one time and thats all its got. I am positive the battery is bad it's got a warranty so imma take it back tonite but im not sure thas the problem?

What would cause the CEL 212 Ignition module circuit failure/SPOUT circuit grounded? :dontknow:

 

[CC'S95GT]

do you have a multi meter so you can troubleshoot?

This is what alldata says about code 212

Key Off.
Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM) . Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.
Disconnect Ignition Control Module (ICM) .
Measure resistance between test pin 4 at the breakout box and Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) circuit at the ICM vehicle harness connector.
Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes -- Go to NA5. See: NA5 - Check IDM Circuit For Shorts to Power (Excluding VREF)
No -- Service open circuit. Remove breakout box. Reconnect PCM. Clear continuous memory. See: Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes

NA5
Key "OFF".
Breakout box installed.
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Ignition Control Module (ICM) disconnected.
Measure voltage between test pin 4 at the breakout box and battery negative post.
Key "ON", engine "OFF".
Measure voltage between test pin 4 and test pins 40 and 60 at the breakout box.
Is any voltage reading greater than 10.5 volts?
Yes -- Service short circuit. Remove breakout box. Reconnect all components. Rerun quick test. See: Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Reading Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Quick Test Appendix (Detailed Testing Instructions)
No -- Go to NA6. See: NA6 - Check IDM Circuit For Short to VREF and PIP

NA6
Key "OFF".
Breakout box installed, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) disconnected.
Ignition Control Module (ICM) disconnected.
Ignition coil disconnected on Non-Computer Control Dwell (CCD) vehicles.
Disconnect Scan Tool from Data Link Connector (if applicable).
NOTE: For proper results of this test, the Scan Tool must be disconnected. Due to the circuitry of the Scan Tool and the vehicle, voltage can be fed to the VREF circuit giving a false indication of a short to power.

For Shorts To VREF:



Measure resistance between test pin 4 and test pin 26 at the breakout box.
For Shorts To PIP circuit:



Measure resistance between test pin 4 and test pin 56 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes -- Go to NA7. See: NA7 - Check IDM Circuit For Short to Ground
No -- Service short circuits. Remove breakout box. Reconnect all components and Scan Tool (if applicable). Rerun quick test. See: Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Reading Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Quick Test Appendix (Detailed Testing Instructions)

NA7
NA7 - Check IDM Circuit For Short to Ground


NOTE: During this check when 4-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) is connected to the vehicle harness on Distributor Ignition (DI) vehicles, a short to SIG RTN (Pin 46) may be indicated in conjunction with an actual PWR GND short.



Key "OFF".
Breakout box installed, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) disconnected.
Ignition Control Module (ICM) disconnected.
Scan tool disconnected from Data Link connector.
Ignition coil disconnected on non-Computer Control Dwell (CCD) vehicles.
Measure resistance between test pin 4 and test pins 20, 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance above 10,000 ohms?
Yes -- Reconnect Scan Tool. Go to NA8. See: NA8 - Check ICM
No -- Remove breakout box. Service short to ground in Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) circuit. Reconnect all components. Clear continuous memory. See: Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes

NA8
NA8 - Check ICM


Key "OFF".
Breakout box installed.
Connect Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to breakout box.
Reconnect ignition coil and Ignition Control Module (ICM) .
Connect Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVOM) between test pin 4 and test pin 16 at the breakout box.
Start engine.
Observe DVOM when voltage is allowed to stabilize.
Lightly tap on ICM to simulate road shock.
Wiggle ICM connector and Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor connectors.
A sudden change in voltage indicates a fault.
Is a fault indicated?
Yes -- Disconnect and Inspect connectors. If connector and terminals are good, remove breakout box, reconnect all components and Refer to Ignition Systems for Distributor Ignition (DI) Diagnostics.
No -- Go to NA9. See: NA9 - Check EEC Harness

 

[wannaboost94gt]

Thanks man that should help alot, it's too bad theres no simple answer to the question hunting down wires is not fun :angry7: but it is what it is. The guy removed the engine wiring harness and put it back in so I have no clue where the problem lies but I should be able to hunt it down now, thanks!

One question though what is a breakout box? :dontknow:

 

[CC'S95GT]

Not sure really.
I think it's a box that plugs into either end of a wire harness and it allows the tech to ohm out wires without having to look at the colors on the wires.

 

[wannaboost94gt]

Know where to get one? Or do you think I'm better off having a shop do it? Do you think it would be expensive to have them do it? :dontknow:

 

[CC'S95GT]

shop rate is @ $100/hr.

I don't think you need a breakout box just a good wiring diagram/w color codes.

Try to get hold of the guy that put the harness back in the car. He might be able to help some.

Ck your pos. and neg. wires going to and from the batt. for corrosion and loose connections.

 

[wannaboost94gt]

Just got my battery tested and the guy at the battery shop said the battery was trashed and there was possibly a short in the battery could that cause this?

 

[CC'S95GT]

possibly

 

[wannaboost94gt]

well it wasnt the battery, I guess I'm gonna have to give up on it for now till I save up some $$$ to bring the money pit to and automotive electrician or somethin. any one else have any ideas or expieriance with this type of problem or code 212? It's none of the ignition components just a bad connection, feel free to throw out ideas, also would it be a good idea to go through and put dielctric grease on all the connections? I doubt the DB that did the work even did that. Anyone know any good mechanics around seattle?

 

[MustangMoser]

Know where to get one? Or do you think I'm better off having a shop do it? Do you think it would be expensive to have them do it? :dontknow:

a breakout box plugs in between the harness and the pcm, it allows us technicians to check circuits without risking damage to the pins in the connectors, but if you grind down a metal paper clip into a thin tip, it'll "plug" into the harness connector and allow you place the end of your mult meter on it and check the volts, ohms, amps, whatever u want. you cannot buy a breakout box, it is a special ford dealer only tool, and I dont think any dealer will let you borrow one. if you are in over your head take it to a dealership, thats the best place for it. Joe Willey Neck-bone at Last Chance Auto may be 40 bucks less an hour, but he'll have it twice as long and you'll have to bring it back at least 3 times before you relize that you need to take it to the dealer to have it fixed. I know I work at a dealership, I see it every day.

 

[wannaboost94gt]

I called the dealership and they said 100-200 bucks to hook it up to the breakout box and fix the wiring problem, great idea moser i shoulda done this the first time.

 

[MustangMoser]

yup, spend a little more money up front, and save a bunch in the long run.