Centrifugal with a Carb

musclemustang94 · Feb 28, 2009

Anyone running this setup? It always makes outrageous power in the magazines (yeah I know), but how driveable is it? Me and my Dad were just bouncing around some ideas for his car and he was wondering about a carbed centrifugal blower setup because its so simple, so I thought I would ask around for him.

LAFENATU · Feb 28, 2009

Drivability with carbs sucks balls.

Spyder · Feb 28, 2009

You have to make sure you get a bonnet so you dont have boost leaks everywhere

You also need to get a carp that is built for boost, hardened floats or something like that, otherwise the floats will collapse under the pressure.

stang94X · Feb 28, 2009

Spyder said:
You also need to get a carp that is built for boost

a blow through carb

musclemustang94 · Feb 28, 2009

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LAFENATU said:
Drivability with carbs sucks balls.

Thats not necessarily true, I've driven and have had lots of hot rods with carbs that drove fine. My dads friend has a 54 F100 with a 550 horse 429 with a carb that doesn't over heat and runs great.

GearGambler · Mar 1, 2009

blow through applications have come a long way. do your research, the stuff is out there!

LAFENATU · Mar 1, 2009

It is gonna be more and not worth it in the end. Be prepared because carb is not cheaper...lol

if you build it properly, with proper parts in a higher hp than stock application.. going from a running mass air car to a carbd car will cost you more money overall..

You can you buy a shit 300 dollar carb, a holley blue, some rubber hose and a stock ign module, sure...but then you are going down in performance from the stock mass air. It's worse on fuel, and you have to mess with it more, carb does like big cams etc a bit more than efi IMO, but unless you are going crazy that is a non issue.

If you want to go with a carb for specific reasons have at it.. but it is NOT cheaper.

Shit my buddy just payed almost 600 bucks for a 4150 that is going on his 66.

You can't buy a shitty 300 dollar carb from summit and think its good for high perf. Just look at holley, there HP ultra is $700...lol. You haven't even gotten to the manifold yet...lol

.02

musclemustang94 · Mar 1, 2009

I disagree with you that EFI and Carb are the same for price. I've seen lots of Carb setups work great and they are far cheaper. I've priced out the whole setup for either way and going with a carb was like 500 bucks cheaper. Your numbers dont include any ignition upgrades for the EFI setup but they do for a carb, so I kidna feel like your logic is flawed. EFI is the way to go for a daily driver I know, but Carbs work just fine too if setup right.

stang94X · Mar 2, 2009

every carbed car ive had ran perfect as a daily driver, no issues what so ever, im going to agree with lafenatu about some of the stuff, like he said, you can either buy a $300 carb like an edelbrock or buy a whole lot better one for $600, 700, or even $800, the edelbrock carb for $300 is perfectly fine for a good built street motor, but i would never use it with a blower set-up or anything that makes a whole lot of power, i used a 750 edelbrock on my 454 that made well over 550 horse, but it was just a fun street rod, i only drove it around on the roads and it saw the track 3 times, carb will be cheaper if you just buy a cheap carb and intake set-up, so all in all depending on what is actually going on, i think carbed would come around at or more than an efi set-up, again depending on what parts are actually bought

racer99 · Mar 2, 2009

Driveability with a bt(cent or turbo)is fine with
the right parts.
A good bt carb will run you 750-1300 dollars.
CSU and C&S are 2 of the heavy hitters in the
bt parade.A carb MUST be set up for a blow thru
application.There is a website to do the basic bt
mods to your carb(Holleys seem to work the best).
An Extreme Velocity bonnet does a fine job but
you will need a major upgrade to the fuel system.
Basically a large volume fuel injection pump,-8 feed line,
a return line equal too or larger than the feed line(helps
with low pressure fuel pressure spikes) and a boost referenced
carb blow thru fpr.I run 40 psi to the regulator and 6.5 to the carb.
Fuel pressure will rise 1 to 1 under boost so you will have 6.5 psi
more than the amount of boost.
I have 2 carb bt cars(2.3 turbol and a 306) and am thinking of going the same
route with the nitrous wagon.

Go to www.turbomustangs.com ,click on
message forums and go to the  carb and boost section.

LAFENATU · Mar 2, 2009

musclemustang94 said:
I disagree with you that EFI and Carb are the same for price. I've seen lots of Carb setups work great and they are far cheaper. I've priced out the whole setup for either way and going with a carb was like 500 bucks cheaper. Your numbers dont include any ignition upgrades for the EFI setup but they do for a carb, so I kidna feel like your logic is flawed. EFI is the way to go for a daily driver I know, but Carbs work just fine too if setup right.

You are allowed to have your opinion.

musclemustang94 · Mar 3, 2009

racer99 said:
Driveability with a bt(cent or turbo)is fine with
the right parts.
A good bt carb will run you 750-1300 dollars.
CSU and C&S are 2 of the heavy hitters in the
bt parade.A carb MUST be set up for a blow thru
application.There is a website to do the basic bt
mods to your carb(Holleys seem to work the best).
An Extreme Velocity bonnet does a fine job but
you will need a major upgrade to the fuel system.
Basically a large volume fuel injection pump,-8 feed line,
a return line equal too or larger than the feed line(helps
with low pressure fuel pressure spikes) and a boost referenced
carb blow thru fpr.I run 40 psi to the regulator and 6.5 to the carb.
Fuel pressure will rise 1 to 1 under boost so you will have 6.5 psi
more than the amount of boost.
I have 2 carb bt cars(2.3 turbol and a 306) and am thinking of going the same
route with the nitrous wagon.

Go to www.turbomustangs.com ,click on
message forums and go to the  carb and boost section.

Thanks man, great info.