Chris's 94MGT Journal

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95PGTTech

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June 5

I have a guy on Corral I am trying to work out some parts with locally who seems to be good on pricing and would do his black interior for $200. We'll see what condition it's in and what all is included for that price but I'm really concerned with just getting it painted first, that's the real big first impression of the car.

Installed the front shocks on Saturday to eliminate the most embarrassing and obvious noise. The lift makes stuff SO much faster. Found a camber bolt in the passenger side upper strut hole. Removed what was left of the d/s front sway bar end link. Threw it on the alignment rack to see how far it was out - not terrible. I think I'll finish it off with some cheap C/C plates and lowering springs.

I didn't install the rear. That clunk I had that I thought was from the p/s rear that previously would happen in the shop by jouncing on the quarter panel was gone as soon as I did the front shocks. I was out of time anyhow. If I have nothing to do next Saturday I'll throw them in for good measure. The front right shock was laughably expired.

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Spent nothing.


Total Invested To Date:
$1959.46
 

SRT Handz

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does this guy have cobra headlights for sale?
 
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95PGTTech

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June 8

Too tired to do anything after work the last two days. I have some Konig Trouble rims with new tires (225's...meh...) that I've been trying to sell forever and are the correct bolt size. My pea brain is debating throwing them on to decide whether or not they'll increase the appeal of the car to the general audience. I placed my large Rock Auto order today.

power steering pump
fuel pump
rotor
oil pan drain plug gasket
hood prop retainer
pilot bearing
wires
rear main seal
PCV
OPSU
inner tie rod end
sway bar endlink
fuel filter
throw out bearing
pinion seal
cap
thermostat and gasket
sway bar bushings

$229.08

Total Invested To Date:
$2188.54
 
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95PGTTech

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June 9


First box arrived from Rock Auto. Thermostat, PCV, hood retainer, fuel filter.
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Parts from guy on Corral.
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I went and picked up some parts in MD today (body stuff). Good guy I got a good deal. No pics yet, arrived home late.


Total Invested To Date:
$2188.54
 
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95PGTTech

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Yeah Sunday afternoon after Buddy Ball and dog walk in park.

June 11


I tried to bake the headlights (started with the corners) in order to open them up and paint them black like the ones on our Cobra. Most conventional directions say 8 minutes at 220F will do it, and it's worked in the past. After 8 minutes, I had hot plastic but the glue would not move. It's not like the stock headlights black weatherstripping adhesive glue, it's more like clear RTV silicone. I cranked it up to 250 and put them in another two minutes, but by that point the plastic was so hot the mounting lances were starting to distort so I pulled them out, straightened them, and let it cool and give up. I'll do some research and see if there is some other way to pull these apart.

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There was NOTHING to do at work and both Adam and my wife suggested I throw a set of 18x7 Konig Troubles on the car that I have had sitting around trying to sell (unsuccessfully) for many years. The tires on the stock rims are 2/32 and 4/32, respectively, so there's a potentially big expense (around here, even good condition used tires are $60 each). The other side to the argument is whether or not myself or other die hard Mustang enthusiasts love the wheels or not, the general public viewing the car would be more likely to buy. The pictures speak for themselves.

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The rear looks stupid, a lot further into the wheel well than stock, but actually it's not. I'm going to try and find some 1" spacers for the back, I have some 3/16" to use for the front. Taking the center caps out was such an improvement (thanks Rader). A little ricey IMO, but I agree, to the general public looking to buy this car, these wheels with spacers, new paint, and lowered would probably be pretty appealing.

I got my ASE test results back today as well. I let them expire being out of the game a few years, but took A1, A4, and A5 at the last testing session.

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Total Invested To Date:
$2188.54
 

Adam95GT

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Congrats on the ASE results why didnt you tell me that on the phone a*s.


Free rims are cheaper then tires :headbang:


If you get a chance can you upload the stuff on the black camera... the line lock and stuff.
 
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95PGTTech

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June 13

Unloaded and got some pics of my used parts score. Front bumper, door, door lock actuator, headlight harness, turn signal bulb and socket, air bag sensors, air bag module, horns, crash beam, foam padding, ABS bracket, inner splash shields.
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Found some MM solid rack bushings for stock rack that I had sitting around from my 98 Cobra. I think I'll toss them in, couldn't get $10 for them years ago. Hope they are the same, I'll look it up.
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Installed the other two wheels so I don't look stupid driving around with one set of wheels on the driver side and one set on the passenger side. Also installed the new front sway bar endlink and one spacer I had sitting around, it looks like 1/4". It damn near brought the wheel flush in front. It centers pretty easily with some RTV to hold it, then the lug nuts do the rest. I still have a ton of threads on the stock lug nuts so I'll go a bit wider next time I'm at Ricer Boys and try and get the front wheels flush.
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Raining and had some issues with family this weekend, didn't get much done. I'd like to source a header panel and hood this week so I can get this off to paint while I'm busy next weekend doing junk for family again (brother wrecked car, going to pick up parts car and help dad with work).

Costs:
used parts ($160)
toll 1 ($4)
toll 2 ($4)
gas ($27.55)

Total Invested To Date:
$2384.09
 
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95PGTTech

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June 14

Brother wrecked his car (again) so the week has been occupied helping the family bail his ass out. At least two more days are going to be wasted getting the parts car and moving the parts over to his before sending it out to paint.

I've been trying to track down a header panel and hood and for now forget the rest so I can get the body panels fitted and hopefully off to paint while we screw around with his car so it's not a total waste - I also have a replacement ride during this time. No one on Earth seems to have or want to sell a header panel - the car is either hit in the front, it's already gone, or they want to keep it for some stupid reason. I threw one out from the Cobra a few months ago - figures. I just caved and ordered in on eBay. I'm going to try to pick up a hood from a guy parting a car this week and hopefully get some more small interior BS and what not.

$36.88 down the drain not bad. The only person I found with one wanted $50 picked up, whatever. Same kind of guys wanted $2500 for a 95GT with 140K that had a bent up front that had not run in two years...LOL.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-1998-FORD-MUSTANG-HEADER-PANEL-GRILL-OPENING-SVT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2307ca170fQQitemZ150454540047QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Total Invested To Date:
$2420.97
 

NXcoupe

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Looks good, but those expenses keep goin up. What do you think you'll end up with total in the car?
 
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95PGTTech

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Goal is under $3K, sell for $5.5K at this point.
Will I get there? We'll see. Paint is flat rate $325 for some stupid good results he has done many cars for me.
This is one of those flips I'd just wish I'd walked away from. Even if I make $2.5K for the amount of time invested compared to others I have done it has not been worth it.

As I just got rid of my DD, it's really my DD as well at this point, so I have no problem driving it around with a for sale sign if I don't get what I'm looking for. Been doing it since the day I bought it, price just keeps going up.
 

NXcoupe

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95PGTTech said:
Goal is under $3K, sell for $5.5K at this point.
Will I get there? We'll see. Paint is flat rate $325 for some stupid good results he has done many cars for me.
This is one of those flips I'd just wish I'd walked away from. Even if I make $2.5K for the amount of time invested compared to others I have done it has not been worth it.

As I just got rid of my DD, it's really my DD as well at this point, so I have no problem driving it around with a for sale sign if I don't get what I'm looking for. Been doing it since the day I bought it, price just keeps going up.
That's a great price for paint. Now, is that just labor to paint and you do the prep and buy the materials, or is that him doing it all? that would be an insane deal. Well, I'll keep following along.
 
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95PGTTech

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NXcoupe said:
95PGTTech said:
Goal is under $3K, sell for $5.5K at this point.
Will I get there? We'll see. Paint is flat rate $325 for some stupid good results he has done many cars for me.
This is one of those flips I'd just wish I'd walked away from. Even if I make $2.5K for the amount of time invested compared to others I have done it has not been worth it.

As I just got rid of my DD, it's really my DD as well at this point, so I have no problem driving it around with a for sale sign if I don't get what I'm looking for. Been doing it since the day I bought it, price just keeps going up.
That's a great price for paint. Now, is that just labor to paint and you do the prep and buy the materials, or is that him doing it all? that would be an insane deal. Well, I'll keep following along.

$325 is I bring him the car straight, bondo'd, in 550 grit. he tacks, solvent wipe, and sprays a primer then single stage. he's returned cars to me glossy enough that I saw a reflection in the paint and had to ask if he had it cut and buffed after paint. it is my choice or not to leave the panels off the car or to spray off car. obviously off car turns out the most wicked results with no overspray so I usually opt for that if I have the time. I drive there with all the bolts pre-loosened and put back in lightly then I come over when he's ready and calls and it's inside and unbolt.
 
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95PGTTech

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June 19

Got to work on the car for a little over five hours Saturday, it made up for a hectic week of ordering parts and doing other things in my life (and working on my brother's car today, losing a day off).

Drove the Mustang damn near empty.
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Yanked the old coolant reservoir and that makeshift water pump-heater hose.
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If you get an aftermarket thermostat without a breather (bypass) hole - DRILL ONE! You'll regret not doing it later.
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Reassembly went without issue - topped it off and had heat again.
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I wish I could say the same about the d/s inner tie rod. I ended up having to drill out the drift pin since it wouldn't budge. Without a replacement drift pin, I red Loctite'd the new one in. I'm not worried, 99% of cars use Loctite and not a pin.
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I needed to pull the rack to get to the back side to drill the pin both ways, so I installed that set of MM solid rack bushings that I had sitting around. Chop the stock rack bushing pins - I thought I saved them from the set but I guess not.
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Glad I did it - bushings didn't look too bad in car and the rack didn't have any play with a pry bar but out of the car they looked pretty gnarly once they were out.
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Fuel filter
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Did the new fuel pump without a hitch - this may be the only 94-98 Mustang on Earth without a rotted out fuel filler tube gasket. Good thing, because I didn't have one ordered. My friend Chris lent a hand.
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Went to install the sway bar bushings (front) and found them to be too small diameter - not wanting to do work twice, I just pulled the bar and threw it in the trunk.
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Not the greatest alignment I've ever done but pretty good for 12 minutes running out the door. I'd still like to do C/C plates and lowering springs. I may end up needing to do a steering shaft because the wheel has some play in it and uneasiness at speed - I'm hoping it may be due to the horrifically positive caster.
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Header panel arrived - only need a hood now!
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"New" tool box
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No additional costs on this day leaves me at...
Total Invested To Date:
$2420.97
 
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95PGTTech

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June 22

For the first time I bring the Mustang into the shop on a weekday - I was told it was OK and I really want to get some work done on this pig, but I don't want to overstep my bounds at the new job. I have from 5-7 to work on the car daily, I'll bring it in more and more often now that it seems I have broken the ice.

I have been chasing a vibration at speed which I think was worsened by the installation of the solid rack bushings (as in, I feel it more). It's a steering wheel vibe that starts around 55mph and goes as high as 80mph that I've been able to do cruising. It does not go away if I push the clutch in or change throttle position or gear, and it doesn't seem to change if steering left, right, or straight. I thought it may have been play from that inner tie rod end as I am going down the road but I double checked and there is no more 3-9 play or 6-12 play in either wheel.

The last time the tires were balanced was 3 years ago so I cleaned them off, took off all the sticky weights, and road force balanced the front two tires. I had only a few minutes left after finishing this so I used it to remove the p/s side skirt. I'll do the rear two tires and d/s side skirt at my next opportunity. The steering wheel still has a bit of play in it but from what I remember of the Cobra pre-solid steering shaft, that's normal for a Mustang. The balancing did not solve the issue and I am still chasing it. Someone suggested motor mounts but I am not sure how they could cause these symptoms and they have little or no play in them with a prybar. Very, very annoying.

No additional costs on this day leaves me at...
Total Invested To Date:
$2420.97
 

NXcoupe

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Could you have a caliper sticking, rubbing a pad against the rotor and generating the vibration? We had a ford van that did that, rear brakes stuck on it just a bit, felt like the entire rear end was coming out from under it.
 
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95PGTTech

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A hung caliper typically results in a pull, not a vibration, but since I have no better ideas I'll check it out the next chance I get. You'll easily identify a hung caliper by spinning all four wheels on the lift. They should all spin very freely, one will hang up. Also, the pads will be dramatically worn more on that wheel (for example, relatively new pads that are 8/32 on one side of the car and 3/32 on the other). A worn inner pad or a taper on a pad would indicate bad caliper hardware or lack of lubricant. I have an intermittent brake squeal that I've been meaning to take the brakes apart and lube the slide pins so I'll check then. The front and rear pads and rotors were like 9/32 last I looked but on a quick peek through the wheel during the state inspect. I didn't check the inner pads. Being as how rusty (exterior) all four calipers are, I'd guess they are recent too (many aftermarket calipers are uncoated or sanded down and get a light exterior rust very quickly).

June 26

Typical slow Saturday, work until about one, then pull cars in. Adam came over and we banged out his battery charge, A/C recharge, and I diag'd his suspension noise pretty quickly - front sway bar endlinks. He was happy to hear he needed $50 worth of parts instead of a $450 SVT suspension kit thinking it was a bad strut. And kind of disappointed he didn't "need" it at the same time too...

Removed other side skirt
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PCV valve. Old one "shook" good when I got it out but that grommet in the intake was really loose so I RTV'd it in. Seemed like a great vacuum leak source.
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OPSU was leaking. Damn that's a tight spot. Gauge reads towards the high end now.
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Horns installed. Still sound really lame. Found one not even connected. Disappointed, but I got them for free...
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Power steering pump. Pics make it look a lot easier than it actually is. An hour of frustration and thinking you're going to bust something removing and installing the pulley. Still have the slight groan I had before - very aggrivating. I'm leaning towards flushing the fluid, but ran out of time/patience for today. I may just put a rack in the damned car. Spent more time trying to chase that vibration issue.
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No additional costs on this day leaves me at...
Total Invested To Date:
$2420.97
 

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