Clutch Adjustment Questions (PLEASE Reply)

[Slykin]

Alright guys, I have my transmission installed along with a Spec 1 clutch, double hook quadrant, firewall adjuster, and an adjustable cable. I started the car up for the first time after the installation, and the TO bearing was whirring against the pressure plate splines. 1. Is this normal for breaking in? Once I press the clutch in it goes away. 2. If not, how do you stop it? It's a new TO bearing. Ok, after that, I loosened the cable up and it did nothing to help except make the pedal sloppy. So then I thought i'd drive it up the driveway and see if I could tell anything. It's smoking... GREAT. It also sounds like the pilot bearing is whining :crybaby2: I'm assuming the smoke is from the cable being too loose and slipping the clutch, but i'm not sure how tight the cable should be. I also have no clue as to what to do with the firewall adjuster, it doesn't seem to be making a difference with the cable pertaining to the TO bearing whirring etc. I would LOVE to have some advice here, I can't get a straight answer on how to adjust this thing and I need the car running soon. I'll probably have to pull the tranny to replace the Pilot bearing :BangHead: but I can still drive it with a loud bearing. I can't drive it with it smoking etc. Thanks guys. :crybaby2: :confused1:

-Travis

 

[Slykin]

Bump. I really need some help here guys.

 

[GDTrumbo]

I would go to an OEM cable. You don't need a firewall adjuster and an adjustable cable. The OEM cable will outlast the adj. cable by a far cry and be much less of a headache. Your looking for about 1" of free play at the pedal for proper operation.

GT

 

[JDwhite98gt]

I would go to an OEM cable. You don't need a firewall adjuster and an adjustable cable. The OEM cable will outlast the adj. cable by a far cry and be much less of a headache. Your looking for about 1" of free play at the pedal for proper operation.

GT

^ This. Get an OEM cable, I wouldnt put the cable on the second hook, try the first (closest to the firewall) hook, If you can imagine the firewall adjuster as just a leverage device it will make more sense. Screw it out towards the engine and it pulls slack from the pedal, raising the pedal towards you but allows more slack at the trans which will allow the TB to go back farther away from the preassure plate. Screw the adjuster in towards the firewall and it pulls the slack away from the trans, making the TB closer to the preassure plate fingers and it will lower your pedal and give a very short travel so you can actually just toe it but screw it in too far and the tb wont fully disengage from the fingers. See how having an adjustable cable over complicates the adjustment options?

 

[Slykin]

Yeah.. I can see why it makes it more of a problem, but this cable's been working fine for 2 years now and I'd much rather not spend 40$ if I can figure this one out. I mean, if it gets to the point where I can't get it adjusted, I guess i'll get one. One question i'm still not sure about, is it normal for the TO Bearing to make a slight whirring noise while it's breaking in?

 

[NXcoupe]

I would go to an OEM cable. You don't need a firewall adjuster and an adjustable cable. The OEM cable will outlast the adj. cable by a far cry and be much less of a headache. Your looking for about 1" of free play at the pedal for proper operation.

GT

^ This. Get an OEM cable, I wouldnt put the cable on the second hook, try the first (closest to the firewall) hook, If you can imagine the firewall adjuster as just a leverage device it will make more sense. Screw it out towards the engine and it pulls slack from the pedal, raising the pedal towards you but allows more slack at the trans which will allow the TB to go back farther away from the preassure plate. Screw the adjuster in towards the firewall and it pulls the slack away from the trans, making the TB closer to the preassure plate fingers and it will lower your pedal and give a very short travel so you can actually just toe it but screw it in too far and the tb wont fully disengage from the fingers. See how having an adjustable cable over complicates the adjustment options?

Do exactly the opposite of what he just told you to do adjustment wise. I have customer get this backwards all the time. Screwing into the firewall gives you more pedal freeplay and looser tob to fingers. Screw it out from the firewall and the freeplay goes away and the tob is tight against the fingers.
If you have any other adjustable cable but a Steeda, toss it and replace it with a stocker or a steeda adjustable, everyone of my cars has a UPR quadrant and firewall adj, along with the steeda cable. It has a very smooth, easy feel to it.
Did you pull your trans into the clutch by using the bolts on the bellhousing or transmission? Did you replace the pilot bearing? Did you use the supplied bearing from spec and was it a plastic one?

 

[Slykin]

1. I don't know what the cable is, it was on there when I bought the car, but i've been very happy with the feel and durability. 2. Yes I pulled the transmission up with the bolts.. hopefully not ripping needle bearing out of the pilot bearing 3. I did replace the pilot bearing with the spec one, but it was all steel, i'm pretty sure it was a timken.

 

[JDwhite98gt]

I would go to an OEM cable. You don't need a firewall adjuster and an adjustable cable. The OEM cable will outlast the adj. cable by a far cry and be much less of a headache. Your looking for about 1" of free play at the pedal for proper operation.

GT

^ This. Get an OEM cable, I wouldnt put the cable on the second hook, try the first (closest to the firewall) hook, If you can imagine the firewall adjuster as just a leverage device it will make more sense. Screw it out towards the engine and it pulls slack from the pedal, raising the pedal towards you but allows more slack at the trans which will allow the TB to go back farther away from the preassure plate. Screw the adjuster in towards the firewall and it pulls the slack away from the trans, making the TB closer to the preassure plate fingers and it will lower your pedal and give a very short travel so you can actually just toe it but screw it in too far and the tb wont fully disengage from the fingers. See how having an adjustable cable over complicates the adjustment options?

Do exactly the opposite of what he just told you to do adjustment wise. I have customer get this backwards all the time. Screwing into the firewall gives you more pedal freeplay and looser tob to fingers. Screw it out from the firewall and the freeplay goes away and the tob is tight against the fingers.
If you have any other adjustable cable but a Steeda, toss it and replace it with a stocker or a steeda adjustable, everyone of my cars has a UPR quadrant and firewall adj, along with the steeda cable. It has a very smooth, easy feel to it.
Did you pull your trans into the clutch by using the bolts on the bellhousing or transmission? Did you replace the pilot bearing? Did you use the supplied bearing from spec and was it a plastic one?

ok then learn me on this NX. I know that when I screw my firewall adjuster out it makes my ckutch pedal raise up and be tighter, making my clutch travel seem like a mile long. So how does it work because now I'm confused lol

 

[Slykin]

Hmmm, I got the clutch to quit smoking. Just tightened up the cable so it engages all the way. It's still whining like a 5 year old though. I'm afraid we're going to have to tear it apart and throw in the FRPP bearings like we should have in the first place. When in gear, you can hear it according to RPM's, and when you let off the clutch you can hear the TO bearing whirring against the pressure plate teeth.