Clutch problems

mikey94gt

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So I have a question. I havent called the tech dept. of either products parent company, as I cant talk right now (lost my voice as a combo of talking too much and an ear infection that spread to my vocal cords) and they only have tech lines, really.

So I put a Ram HD clutch in my car (the $179 special) and let it break in for about 1k miles. the flywheel is not stock, its a Fidanza aluminum, and I ordered the replacement friction steel for it. I run the clutch nicely for about 1k miles, then gave her hell. it slips, really pissing me off. so I pulled it after not being able to talk to ram (they dont answer their tech line) and calling a local Mustang shop, I bought a replacement on their recommendation. They pretty much said that clutch is not right, you need a stronger one. I kinda agree, but hated the way the Ram drove anyways. it wasnt much better than the drag clutch I was replacing. brutal, more or less. when I pulled it, I could see that the surface of the flywheel was glazed so well I could see myself in it in places. The pressure plate was definitely torqued down correctly, as you could see where the paint was crushed off on the surfaces that touch, and I used brake cleaner to get everything super clean before install. hardly any grease on the TO bearing, the pilot bearing and splines. just a film, enough to lube, not enough to sling.

So I put a second clutch in, the one I should have ordered before all this. I also ordered up a new friction surface for the flywheel, as the Ram one was done for, more or less. Their cheap too!! I put the Centerforce Dual Friction in, again surgically clean with brake cleaner (two fellow gearheads can attest to how clean) hardly any grease on the TO bearing, the pilot bearing and splines.(used Ford TO bearing too)just a film, enough to lube, not enough to sling. I also hit the friction surface of the flywheel with 100 grit sandpaper this time to help the clutch grab better. I let it break in for 500 city miles (instructions state 450-600 in town miles) This one slips as well!!! now Im really frustrated, and half tempted to put a cheap stock flywheel in there and talk to Centerforce to see if I really need a new clutch disk (it only slipped twice) and put the POS together. I havent torn into it yet. heres my theory. the packaging of the frictions from Fidanza say they are hardened steel. I wonder if they are too hard for the clutch to "bed" into? Or maybe the aluminum flywheel doesnt let it get hot enough to properly break in? both times I have taken it out, there is not any oil contamination of the clutch whatsoever, and no hot spots either. I also dont wanna get rid of the aluminum flywheel at this point, but if it is the problem, then im okay with that.

Also, all torque specs and adjustment procedures were followed, and the clutch and flywheel have ARP bolts in them.
 

Paul

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You shouldn't ever be putting sandpaper to anything.

How much power are you making? I agree with what 95convgt said - it sounds like your cable isn't adjusted right and the pressure plate is not applying full clamping force. You should be able to pull a little slack on the cable when the fork is fully released - there should be zero pre-tension.

How are you replacing the friction steel in the flywheel? I thought those were riveted in place by Fidanze? I could be wrong.

Your theories about the hardness of the friction surface and the temperature of the flywheel are inaccurate. I've used similar setups with no problems, as have many others.

Paul.
 
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mikey94gt

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the clutch cable is adjusted correctly, 1/4 to 1/8 inch play in the cable is what the instructions that came with the clutch said.

The flywheel friction steels are just bolted on, is like 30 bolts or so, cant remember.

I figured the theories were not correct, I was just putting something out there.

The car makes 300HP at the tires. Im also running stock gears, I think they are the 308, I could be wrong.

I wonder if the clutch just isnt bedded into the flywheel enough yet, I have only tried full throttle twice. the rest of the time was just cruisin in town and on the highway, nothing strenuous. the clutch now has about 800 miles on it, Im gonna stay out of it until about 1,000 or so and see what that does.
 

Paul

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Does your clutch disengage with the pedal near the "top" when you press it? Or do you need more full actuation of the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch?
 
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mikey94gt

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the clutch engages in the middle of the travel, if I remember correctly. i didnt really give much thought to that.
 
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mikey94gt

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well, I put a new flywheel in it, a practically new one from standard flywheels, Inc, and it still slips. I got rid of the ram after I found out their customer service sucked, and the clutch was trash and drove like crap, and went with a Centerforce Dual Friction. this is how it went down:

First, i tried the Ram HD on the aluminum flywheel with a new friction surface and a new T/o bearing, the pilot was good. the clutch vibrated so bad it shook stuff loose in the car, so I took it out and replaced it with the Centerforce. no more vibration ,but it slips, and I noticed the vibes took out my pilot bearing, so I replaced that, along with going with a OEM ford TO bearing, as the same PN bearing had fragged in my buddys car, causing damage. Since the Centerforce slipped with the aluminum flywheel and second new friction surface, I bought a new flywheel and put it in with the Centerforce. the clutch still looked like brand new, no glaze or hot spots, so I cleaned it good and put it in. i didnt clean the disc, just the flywheel and pressure plate. it felt like it used to, pulled hard at part throttle and everything. well, driving to my parents house I notice it slipping at WOT after about 900 + mostly city miles break in (centerforce reccommends 450-600 miles city), at their clutch adjustment recommendation. I adjust the clutch so there is about 1/4 inch play in the clutch arm, (more slop than before) and it still slips with no preload at all on the clutch fingers. I pulled it apart today and there are hot spots all around the flywheel evenly, but the pressure plate only has hot spots for about 120* or so if looked at like a compass. hmm says i, so i sent pics off to Centerforce to see what Roger in the tech dept has to say. he might call tomorrow, im keeping my phone with me, so now im waiting on a phone call. my uncle, an old school hot rodder, thinks the pressure plate is warped, causing the slippage, and he also said the other clutch is trash. One thing i did notice, the clutch always engaged about 1/2 way through the travel of the pedal, so I wonder if it was messed up all along? this is with the Centerforce recommended adjustment. I dunno, I guess i will hear from Roger tomorrow.
 

Paul

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There is no possible way all those clutches/flywheels have been bad. You're doing something wrong on the install.
 

MustangChris

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perhaps get an entire kit... ? like a centerforce clutch/flywheel combo, insted of mixing-matching? (just throwin' ideas out there)
 
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mikey94gt

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well, heard back from the centerforce guy today, heres what he had to say:

Hello Mike,

The condition of the pressure plate surface appears to be in good condition. The only concern from viewing the pictures is, there appears to be one area which shows slightly more heat/possibly dragging condition possibly from the pressure plate not lifting properly or not being provided enough travel from the cable. This condition can be checked with a hydraulic press or arbor press if the assembly was bolted together and you used the arm of the press to simulate the throwout bearing movement to ensure the assembly is lifting off the disc properly. I can not determine whether the assembly has any oil contamination from viewing the pictures, however, the flywheel side pucks do have an odd color to them right in the middle of the puck. If I were going to re-install this clutch I might advise texturizing the casting of the pressure plate surface and flywheel surface to provide a rough surface to ensure the disc seats in. If this is done you'll need to blow the sand out of the components. Feel free to email me or contact me if you have further questions.

Regards,
Roger

So I dunno what I could have done wrong installing the clutch, by the way. I used plenty of brake cleaner to make positively sure that the flywheel and pressure plate were clean, I used a torque wrench to put it together, and I put new bearings in with the new flywheel. I do need a new clutch cable though. I have one on order.
 
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mikey94gt

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Can you drive to Pocatello, ID? personal drop off? lol, I was gonna get that clutch cable anyways.
 
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mikey94gt

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eh, no worries. I can grab it thurs, i am gonna drive home weds. Thanks for the offer though, and storing it in your nice big garage for a bit!!!
 

MustangChris

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spec told me 1200 miles for my break in period....... i didnt wait that long (did about 900 miles) and it started slipping (my RPMs would jump about 100-150 RPMs... no one could feel it except me) it only did it under EXTREAMLY steady acceleration... i waited the extra 300-400 miles then started beating it up... now i have 0 problems...

id suggest giving it a HELL of a lot of break in period next time... something rediculous... like, 1500 miles. just to rule that out... each time i read your thread the break in seems low to me... . .. i suggest giving a very long break in period next go....
 
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mikey94gt

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ya, the break in period is gonna be about 1k miles or more. Im tired of taking it apart!!!
 

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