Completely confused...Idle is still high need advice

JoeR40065

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Am currently at a loss for ideas here idle is at 1700 rpm and here is what Ive checked and repaired pr replaced :
Please note i cannot afford to take to conventional mechanic due to no income and cannot find a Job in Louisville KY area still waiting on unemployment from September.

How it happened: Hit speedbump one evening not seeing it until it was to late and damaged exhaust (Repaired) or Same day used cruise control for first time on way home next day car began idling at 1800 - 2600 rpm and driving it didnt require using gas pedal naturally

*TPS new and set to .95 volt (3 times thinking it was bad )
*IAC new
*Egr is working -not sure if affects idle
*Maf (2nd new one)
* Idle screw Adjusted to barely allow car to start and stay running then returned with a dial indicator to original position. (Did this because i am tool and die maker and didnt want to adjust without first noting origianl position)
* All new seals and gaskets for intake both upper and lower as well as around fuel injectors (Trying to eliminate vacuum from bad gasket)
* Ran all new VACUUM lines for ENTIRE CAR replacing one at a time
* Checked timing
* Reset ECU by undoing battery cables and draining residual energy by attaching copper wire to each cable after all repairs were made

*****Only other thing i can think of is the car has a Avail aftermarket security system from previous owner that has remote start on it and maybe that has something to do with this issue in some sorta of way ((installer destroyed wiring under dash when installing so every wire would need spliced back together should it need removed)) and that idea just happend while typing this.

What else am I missing here ?
please forgive me as I thought I knew what i was doing however Ive Exhausted Ideas here.
 

JoeR40065

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What mods are done and what and why did you adjust the "idle screw"?

This car has No mods to the vehicle is / well was a one owner documents and records showing full history provided by owner. At time of purchase Having only 88000 miles when i bought it in August and began the issue late November first part December. And i Had a second vehicle until it heater core went out the other day forcing me to fix this. It is driveable but do not feel as if its smart to continue driving it. To answer you;
I made a snap decision after replacing IAC and second tps I then said this will be stupid but am desperate ro fix so adjusting thw idle screw was messed with when after I cleaned the throttle body thoroughly. But i did depth mic it and wrote that height down **Knowing that I was reaching for a conclusion then and should not be messing with such **
***** One more thing i thought is maybe i possibly disrupted the o2 sensor heater wiring in line fuse (not sure if it is on this model or not i know i was on the 89-93 models i owned before) but if when i jarred the speed bump maybe possible that i did such. But O2 sensor is for after warming up and is long fuel trim so am wondering if why does it still idle high after 10 min running and restart doesnt change anything

Sorry to ramble but trying to provide what all Ive done along with thought processing
 

ttocs

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have you checked for vac leaks? You can't do it with just a visual inspection but its as simple as lighting up a cigar and blowing the smoke in a vac line. With that being said though if you have not already started to replace any old worn out vac lines you need to, as well as the stock fuel lines just for safety but they get expensive quick.
 

JoeR40065

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have you checked for vac leaks? You can't do it with just a visual inspection but its as simple as lighting up a cigar and blowing the smoke in a vac line. With that being said though if you have not already started to replace any old worn out vac lines you need to, as well as the stock fuel lines just for safety but they get expensive quick.
Ttocs I have ran all new hose for vacuum lines in desperate attempt to fix this i have even checked the pcv in lower and made sure that itself (PCV) was sealing in the lower intake
 

JoeR40065

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Work performed to date ;

1. TPS (3 times each time setting the voltage with multimeter to .95v key is in ON position then reset ECU)

2. IAC is new still have old one

3. Egr is working -not sure if affects idle

4. Maf (2nd new one)

4A. Throttle Body cleaned and working properly

5. Idle screw Adjusted to barely allow car to start and stay running then returned with a dial indicator to original position.

6. All new seals and gaskets for intake both upper and lower as well as around fuel injectors (Trying to eliminate vacuum from bad gasket)

7. Ran all new VACUUM lines for ENTIRE CAR replacing one at a time

8. Checked timing

9. Reset ECU by undoing battery cables and draining residual energy by attaching copper wire to each cable after all repairs were made

10. I have went thru the steps in setting the idle several times and feel as if I am going in circles

*** I get a check engine light about 30 seconds to 2 minutes after i start the car and it is NOT consistent may happen 6 of 10 times! Am wondering if valve is to blame here? Just havent any words for this issue as it doesnt make sense
 

07GtS197

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If the check engine light keeps coming on then there is a hard fault. You can check the codes with a paper clip if you were to jump the sto and sti connectors. Then you count the flashes of the check engine light.

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ttocs

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ok so you ran new lines did you try a smoke check? A vac leak is the most obvious problem to cause a high idle
 

JoeR40065

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Ok so to answer the vacuum i have replaced all the lines seals and gaskets anywhere. Leak could be and had a friend test the vacuum work today and yes you are correct TTOCS vac leak id generally the culprit. I will note that ive driven the car today because i have bo other choice the idle has been 1000 to 1400 warm on trip 1. Next trip average was 15-2200 rpm. And on thjs trup we are at 2500 to 3000 rpm. So its bot consistent
 

JoeR40065

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If the check engine light keeps coming on then there is a hard fault. You can check the codes with a paper clip if you were to jump the sto and sti connectors. Then you count the flashes of the check engine light.

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so I performed the procedure and unsure if i am reading codes right i have attached video i uploaded to youtube so i could get feedback and help but I deciphered this:
116-636-654-116-636-654; long pause then 176-332-176-332

Or is it 11-66-37-65-17-62-32


Here is video
 

muzzy25

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hi you havnt got a leak on the hard plastic side that pulls the egr on and controls air pump side red hose on intake ?
 

ttocs

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looking at those codes I am not sure that any have to do with the idle. I had an issue with my TPS last year that I discovered was actually because of a old/loose harness that would not make good contact once the engine was warm. It could be a bad connection on the IAC or the TPS. Just out of stupidity check those harnesses closely and make sure they are tight and the clips that hold it in place are both still connected.
 

JoeR40065

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hi you haven't got a leak on the hard plastic side that pulls the egr on and controls air pump side red hose on intake ?

For funs sake I'm currently freezing outside vacuum testing each individual connection , capping off the end off the hose testing and then testing the opposite way. just got to this point and the smaller hose under the upper intake is good. any other points you can think of?


77217d1534878799-94-gt-a-c-vacuum-line-pictures-please-vacuum2.jpg


considering this below
 

muzzy25

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Hi a faulty canister purge solenoid will allow air to pass
Carbon under egr valve? If on replaced the solenoid
Faulty cruise control opening up the throttle when running??
 

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