Crazy Electrical Problems 1998 GT

[foofinator]

For the past few years I have been chasing down a battery drain in my 1998 Mustang GT.

Today, the symptoms have gotten so bad, that I do not feel safe driving the car around.

1. When I connect the battery to drive the car, the speakers make a loud low-pitched sound that comes and goes at random times. The sound the speakers make is epic when connected to a jump box.

2. The factory voltage gauge reads 0, and slowly rises to normal. The aftermarket autometer gauge reads 14 volts (new alternator, it kills them regularly.).

If these symptoms mean anything to anyone here that can point me in the right direction, I would be appreciative. I have put new seats, wheels, etc.. on the car as well as purchased a blower. It also has brand new suspension and brakes. This is the last problem that I really need to track down, and it is driving me insane.

Thanks for any help you guys can give!

 

[CC'S95GT]

what have you already replaced?
do you have an aftermarket alarm or stereo system and amp?
do you have a multimeter?

 

[ttocs]

There is a good chance it could be the factory mach amps, been seeing it more and more lately in the audio area. You can try just disconnecting them and see what happens, or hook up an amp-meter(disconnect the battery and put the meter inbetween the connections) and read the current(current = I on your meter). Now go to your fusebox and start pulling one fuse at a time until you pull one and see the current drop. When you locate the fuse that is drawing the load, then it will be easier to see what is causing your problem.

Now this is all to say that if you have under drive pullies that you are probably under-charging your battery and doing damage to it.

 

[foofinator]

what have you already replaced?
do you have an aftermarket alarm or stereo system and amp?
do you have a multimeter?

I have replaced the alternator and battery a million times.

I replaced the factory head unit when I thought it was drawing.. I also have replaced the starter and solenoid. I recently checked the ground wire to the engine block and the ground strap from the block to the frame, and they look to be in OK condition.

I have an aftermarket stereo with an amplifier, changed head unit, added amp and sub. Those are the only changes.

I am going to buy a good multimeter this evening to try the method the previous poster suggested. I have done this before and nothing shows up.

I think the voltage gauge reading zero and SLOWLY crawling to normal is a sign of something. I really am hoping whatever the hell the problem is finally gives out so I can be done with this issue.

Thanks for your help guys.

 

[ttocs]

are you still using the stock mach amps? If so then before you pull any fuses try disconnecting them and see if you notice a current drop.

Alot of people confuse voltage with current in this case and have the meter on the wrong setting. When put in series with the battery(between the connections) you should not see much more then .1-.3Amps of current on the high end.

 

[foofinator]

So after testing..

There was a box that clicked whenever the battery cables were attached.

Turned out to be remote keyless entry.

This resulted in a reading of .080 amps. Disconnecting the box results in .005 amps when the car is off.

Also, the battery cable no longer sparks when it is reattached.

I am now going to take a look at the stock amps. Where should I disconnect them? Right next to the boxes in the trunk?

 

[ttocs]

factory keyless entry?

 

[foofinator]

Factory.

Also took the amps apart. Driver side amp had a burnt board on the inside.

Thanks for the tip on that one.