D.i.y rear strut tower brace

330CubeGt

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DO IT YOURSELF REAR STRUT BRACE...

Im working on the suspention area of the car before i worry about go fast parts because its always been the other way around and ive never had a mustang that handled well other then it having lowering springs.

Wanted a rear strut tower brace but did not want to spend the 80-130Bucks that there selling for so ive looked around for a week or so looking for a good piece of steel to work with when i came across my dads 07GT Panhard bar:)

I take it out to the car to test fit to see where it will fit and see where i have to cut it, Well i guess i got lucky becaue the holes in the bar center to center sat on the top of the shock studs like it was made for this car.

After i messed with it for a few i figured out what i needed to do, here is a rundown of what i did with pics. Took roughly 2Hrs from start to finish after i fugred out it be a direct bolt in.


Trunk Panels out.


07GT Stock panhard rod (PRESSED PIN AND BUSHING OUT)


Had sound damp beads of some sort inside so i drilled a hole in the center of the bar to get all that dead weight out of the bar.


After what felt like 10-15 mins of rocking this bar back and forth it was finally empty and this is what was inside the bar.


Ends of the bar were to think not letting any of the shock stud/threads stick through enough to get the shock nut/washer to thread on so i had to slim it up a bit.



BEFORE:


AFTER:


Then i took some random interior/exterior spray paint i had laying around and gave it about 5 coats of fresh paint.
As you can see in the pic there is plenty of threads sticking through now.


Then i just had to center the bar up front to back on the holes. Side to side was a perfect fit between the shock tower's the stud was centered and there was no room for play side to side.


Finally the end result all panels back in and strut bard bolted in, Cut out the shock tower area on the real trunk panels and the exposed trunk floor was painted black.

 
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330CubeGt

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Another thing...

Should i:

A. Leave it be bolted down and call it a day?
B. Weld a gusset from the bottom of bar to side of shock tower?
C. No gusset but weld base of bar to top of shock tower?


On another topic do you guys think its worth the extra money to buy the full length sub frames from UPR ($140) that tie into the rear lower boxes or should i just buy the basic connectors that most run that are ($60) now adays.
 
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330CubeGt

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Got bored today and figured i should do something about the home made battery box i made a few months ago that had no hold down for the battery.

Took some aluminum angle drilled some holes in it, cut it up some and found some 3/8 SS bolts washers and lucknuts in the garage to hold it all together.
Did not have any steel or aluminum sheet that was thin enough laying around to make the actual hold down piece so i made use of an old liscense plate i had in the garage for now untill i can get ahold of somthing a little thicker :)

Under the Liscense plate is some 1/2 thick foam to try and protect the battery from the sharp egdes of the plate, Its holding it in place just find but is to redneck for me so it will be changed out soon...



 
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330CubeGt

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Just for the record the sway bar is not sitting on the rubber shock bushings its sitting solid on the car and bolted down solid with no shock bushings...
 

Paul

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Great idea and all, but a two-point shock tower brace serves no purpose in a mustang.

Paul.
 
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i thought it was a good idea. if a two point serves no purpose what would be the proper way of doing it? or is it benificial at all? not trying to be a jerk just curious
 

Steven

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CoD_50callongshotz said:
i thought it was a good idea. if a two point serves no purpose what would be the proper way of doing it? or is it benificial at all? not trying to be a jerk just curious

Considering the relation of the mount point, to the factory floor pan, I highly doubt there is enough deflection in the stock mounts to make much of a difference. Braces come in handy when you have a tall tower with more then the 3-5 inches that the factory shock mounts are placed at. The front however, is much more beneficial to do as the height of the strut towers combined with the lack of factory bracing from passenger to drivers side creates alot of deflection and potential of moving. Essentially doing a rear brace is as if you had a strut tower brace already on the car, and then saying I should add another. It doesn't make much sense
 
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330CubeGt

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I just figured since they sell for $80 to $130 for these cars new and i was able to do it for Free and im just adding extra bracing where i can its not all that bad. I mean if they didn't do anything at all why would big companys waste there time making them...
 

Steven

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330CubeGt said:
I just figured since they sell for $80 to $130 for these cars new and i was able to do it for Free and im just adding extra bracing where i can its not all that bad. I mean if they didn't do anything at all why would big companys waste there time making them...

It's called a gimmick. Why do people buy the tornado bull shit for intakes lol. Not knocking your idea, but the rear shocks on these cars have no lateral movement inward like your brace would prevent. The shocks move vertically, and are relatively straight up and down. Where as the uppers are at an angle, pushing inwards.
 

Paul

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330CubeGt said:
I mean if they didn't do anything at all why would big companys waste there time making them...

Because people buy them.

You'll notice that Maximum Motorsports does not offer one.

Paul.
 

ReplicaR

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Here are several thoughts on this.

1. Rear shock tower brace offers no gains in terms of rear suspension geometry. All of your rear suspension geometry is actually calculated through control arms, or panhard/watts link if you have one. Any deflection that is going through the rear tub of the car has very little effect on how the car handles and puts the power down.

2. I'm not sure what kind of bushings you've used on those, but if it's stock rubber bushings, then your whole brace is rendered useless, due to massive amount of deflection in those rubber pieces. Also, there is no triangulation between the the shock brace and the rest of the floor pan, so even if there was any load on the rear part of the car, you'd just see the rear towers walk along with the chassis like a weak square frame.

3. Shocks towers carry absolutely no load unless you are running coil over conversion. There is very little deflection caused by loading on the rear suspension
 
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330CubeGt

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There are no bushings its solid mounted....

Maybe ill just take it out then :( i feel like a asshat not that im hearing this and doing some reading on it...

Think it would be worth it to keep it if i went coil overs even...
 

Paul

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It's not gonna hurt anything, it's just not gonna do anything either.

Paul.
 

ReplicaR

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I'm sorry and I did not want to make it sound so mean. I don't think you need one in there at all. As I've stated before, there is nothing to be gained from bracing only two points in that place. Now, a roll cage... there is something you should look into.
 

AnthonyF

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I give you props for thinking of it and doing it yourself and a hell of a lot cheaper than those sites. It's a cool appearance mod. Most tools at a meet won't know that it does nothing. You just have some really intelligent people on here letting you know how well it will work or not.

Got some good info out of this thread.
 

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