Daily Driver Strut/Shock recommendations

[Mustang5L5]

My 68K miles '00GT convertible is still wearing factory OE Ford shocks and struts. I swore i'd keep the car stock, but I feel suspension is one area I should address. I can tell when i hit big bumps that the OE absorbers are not absorbing the pumps properly.

I have a modified Foxbody with the max motorsports catalog all over it. K-member, coil-overs, panhard bar, etc. I an NOT looking to go that far here. I do however like the Bilstien B6's that I put on it. Rides pretty decent for a highly modified suspension.

At this time, i am not looking to change out the stock springs. This car is just my summertime daily driver. If i did however, i have some '01 Bullitt springs i'd likely toss on. I'm looking for a nice, OE ride but lose some of the floatiness of the stock suspension. Right now the Bilstiens are my first pic, BUT looking for feedback from those who may have done something different.

Bilstien B6's with stock GT springs
Bilstien B6's with '01 Bullitt springs.

Any feedback?

If i was to change springs to aftermarket, i think the Eibach pro-kit might be a contender. I don't want to slam the car, nor have an overly stiff ride.

 

[Daryl]

Eibach is the “safe bet” to suspension upgrades, IMO. They’ve been around a good while and have pretty much supplied the same caliber of product for ages. That’s not
to say their products are good, because they are! And they won’t “slam” your car. They fit in stock locations, so relatively easy and affordable swap (and easy to reverse back to stock!). So, long way around a short answer… the Eibach suspension kit for your car sounds like what you’re after.

Good luck with it and keep us posted!

 

[badass98svt]

IMO the comparable H&R springs always offered a softer ride than the Eibachs

 

[Daryl]

I’ve only ever experienced stock bs Eibach. So if Badass can speak to the comparison of Eibach vs H&R, then go for the H&R. Eibach do ride a bit stiff.

So long as the H&R don’t slam the ride height, which is something you wanted to limit.

 

[Tillerman77]

My 68K miles '00GT convertible is still wearing factory OE Ford shocks and struts. I swore i'd keep the car stock, but I feel suspension is one area I should address. I can tell when i hit big bumps that the OE absorbers are not absorbing the pumps properly.

I have a modified Foxbody with the max motorsports catalog all over it. K-member, coil-overs, panhard bar, etc. I an NOT looking to go that far here. I do however like the Bilstien B6's that I put on it. Rides pretty decent for a highly modified suspension.

At this time, i am not looking to change out the stock springs. This car is just my summertime daily driver. If i did however, i have some '01 Bullitt springs i'd likely toss on. I'm looking for a nice, OE ride but lose some of the floatiness of the stock suspension. Right now the Bilstiens are my first pic, BUT looking for feedback from those who may have done something different.

Bilstien B6's with stock GT springs
Bilstien B6's with '01 Bullitt springs.

Any feedback?

If i was to change springs to aftermarket, i think the Eibach pro-kit might be a contender. I don't want to slam the car, nor have an overly stiff ride.

As might seem obvious, pick your struts and shock with compatibility with both stock springs and/or lowering springs. That eliminates a number of stock type struts and shocks. What your left with are Koni oranges, Bilstein as you have mentioned already and perhaps Eibach (per Daryl).
I started with Bilstein B6 all around with OE Cobra springs, then changed later to Ford Racing B springs, which I am happy with.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I’ll have to be careful of what springs info with. I’ve put quite a few different springs on my fox and was never really happy until I went to MM coil-overs. The ride was great with the coil-overs and bilstiens. I just don’t want to invest that much into this particular car as it’s really just a fun commuter car. I’d like to avoid doing C/C plates if I can.

It needs shock/struts, so I might start there with the stock springs.

 

[r3dn3ck]

MM coil over kit & CC plates, 225lbs springs in the front on Bilstein's. You're never going to get the ride quality you want on the stock configuration with the spring inboard of the strut. To get a wheel rate that's decent requires a spring rate that gives a terrible ride. I run 325lbs springs which provide a firmer ride than you seem to want. 175's are fine for drag cars. Split the difference and you'll get a very stock-like ride quality but with the precise handling that your Fox gives you. It's not a matter of what damper and spring you pick, it's the fact that the stock configuration is a bad design. You can lipstick the pig as much as you want but if you want to end up with the ride and handling just right then there's no substitute for the real thing, put the spring over the strut where it belongs.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yeah, I know that’s the best solution but just trying to avoid going down that rabbit hole again. I’ve got pretty much the entire MM catalog on my Fox and it’s like driving a go kart, but trying to keep things simpler with the SN95.


I just can’t stand the mushy stock ride and want to do something, even if it’s lipstick on a pig.

 

[badass98svt]

My recommendation

H&R Mustang Race Springs, 1979-2004 Mustang

According to MMs description:

"Excellent handling. Good ride quality. Moderate lowering. Spring rate is only slightly higher than Ford's OEM Bullitt, Mach 1, and Terminator rates."

 

[Daryl]

What about keeping the stock springs and slapping on a set of Koni’s? Easy, affordable, a tad stiffer…. utilizing the KISS methodology!

 

[Mustang5L5]

That is also an option. Looking to hear feedback from those that may have done exactly that.

 

[Daryl]

And FWIW, Gabriel also makes a good, everyday driver shock. “No shame if it ain’t got a name!”

I put a mid-upper range quality of shock of theirs on my ‘64 ChevyII resto-mod and it rode great.

 

[TrickVert]

As a data point, the Eibach ProKit springs with Tokiko Illumina shocks (I know, no longer available) is 1.5" lower and rides more smoothly than stock. Given what you have and want, I'd toss on the Bullitt springs and the Bilstiens you already like.

 

[Tillerman77]

As a data point, the Eibach ProKit springs with Tokiko Illumina shocks (I know, no longer available) is 1.5" lower and rides more smoothly than stock. Given what you have and want, I'd toss on the Bullitt springs and the Bilstiens you already like.

+1

 

[NEW EDG]

What about keeping the stock springs and slapping on a set of Koni’s? Easy, affordable, a tad stiffer…. utilizing the KISS methodology!

That is also an option. Looking to hear feedback from those that may have done exactly that.

Originally I was going to just make my car a comfortable street driver and Maximum Motorsports recommended Koni STR.T's and Eibach Pro Kit as the best option for a ride quality focused setup. They also recommend using Fox Body struts for anything lowered to get better suspension travel. They said STR.T's for comfort and Bilsteins for handling.

That said I never installed them because I decided to go turbo which means mandatory coilovers up front which the STR.T's are too soft to support, but I would trust Maximum's recommendation as you already have in the past.

If you do decide to go that route I have a set of brand new Koni STR.T Fox Body Struts and 94-04 Shocks that I would give you for $300 shipped. Then you'd just need to pick up a lowering spring kit to go with them.

As far as the Bullitt Springs are concerned I don't think they will work with a Convertible unless you have some weight jacker LCA's. Convertible spring rates are higher than coupe spring rates to account for the convertible top motor's added weight. Since the Bullitt Springs are Coupe springs they will probably sit a little lower in the rear than the front of the car on a Convertible. You can account for this with some weight jacker LCAs that will allow you to lift the rear end but without weight jackers I would think a convertible spring is going to be required for your application.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ah, great point about the bullitt springs I didn't take into consideration.

I'm gonna have to think about this a bit and fire an email off to MM and see what they have to say. Not in a rush to do this as fall is settling into New England in the next few weeks so only a few more months of driving left. I want to put together a parts pile for an early spring install and do it all at once.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Contacted MM for their opinion.

Here were there recommendations.

1987-04 Bilstein HD (B6) series Damper Package, solid-axle Mustang

H&R Mustang Race Springs, 1979-2004 Mustang

And the appropriate caster/camber plates.



I've actually had multiple people recommend the H&R race springs, which makes sense if the rates are similar to the bullitt springs. BUT, there is no coupe convertible version, so why not just run the Bullitt springs i already have if they are similar. I can always try cutting 1/8 coil off the front to level it out.

I think regardless, i'll start with the Bilstiens in the spring while i think about springs.

 

[NEW EDG]

Contacted MM for their opinion.

Here were there recommendations.

1987-04 Bilstein HD (B6) series Damper Package, solid-axle Mustang

H&R Mustang Race Springs, 1979-2004 Mustang

And the appropriate caster/camber plates.



I've actually had multiple people recommend the H&R race springs, which makes sense if the rates are similar to the bullitt springs. BUT, there is no coupe convertible version, so why not just run the Bullitt springs i already have if they are similar. I can always try cutting 1/8 coil off the front to level it out.

I think regardless, i'll start with the Bilstiens in the spring while i think about springs.

IMO your options from best to worst would be

1. Get weight weight jacker LCAs to raise the rear
2. Take out the front Isolators to lower the front
3. Cut the front springs to lower the front.

That's all of course assuming the rear sits lower than the front. You can always just install them and see if that's the case first.

 

[Mustang5L5]

You can always just install them and see if that's the case first.

I might just do that since I have them. After install I can evaluate next course of action and whip out the credit card.


Ok enough overthinking. Now to swap on my spare cobra 13" brakes.