Dirty Money: An Impractical Investment

sluggish94

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Found a BBK 75MM locally for cheap. Compared to the stock TB:
IMG_0816.jpg
The orifice:
IMG_0819.jpg
An aerial view: (really brings out the difference in the throttle blade)
IMG_0820.jpg
I threw it on. Looks at home:
IMG_0822.jpg
I haven't driven it around yet or anything because it's currently on jack stands right now. I'm right in the middle of installing some rear lower control arms. They had the wider 99-04 sleeves pressed in them so I had to order a special 12in long 9/16 drill bit to drill out the control arm mounting holes. I might have some pictures of that later this week.

Well, I watched a video on YouTube posted by BBK where they take a stock 5.0 SN95 and install a 70mm throttle body and cold air intake. Their "completely stock" test car gains 24hp and 20 ft. lbs. of torque. This was through an automatic transmission.
IMG_0828.jpg
Is this totally bogus or is it legit?
Or does the SN95's Upper Intake shape contribute to such a large gain compared to a Fox style upper?
Maybe they bumped the timing down on the initial run, then bumped it up on the modified run, therefore inflating the numbers?
Any thoughts on this dyno graph or BBK's claims?
Kinda seems like a very generous gain for just those two mods.
 

RAU03MACH

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On my 95 gt I installed the none adjustable roller rockers ford racing set
Its a upgrade from the cobra roller rockers
I like them better than the original equipment
 

ttocs

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Found a BBK 75MM locally for cheap. Compared to the stock TB:
View attachment 6279
The orifice:
View attachment 6280
An aerial view: (really brings out the difference in the throttle blade)
View attachment 6281
I threw it on. Looks at home:
View attachment 6282
I haven't driven it around yet or anything because it's currently on jack stands right now. I'm right in the middle of installing some rear lower control arms. They had the wider 99-04 sleeves pressed in them so I had to order a special 12in long 9/16 drill bit to drill out the control arm mounting holes. I might have some pictures of that later this week.

Well, I watched a video on YouTube posted by BBK where they take a stock 5.0 SN95 and install a 70mm throttle body and cold air intake. Their "completely stock" test car gains 24hp and 20 ft. lbs. of torque. This was through an automatic transmission.
View attachment 6283
Is this totally bogus or is it legit?
Or does the SN95's Upper Intake shape contribute to such a large gain compared to a Fox style upper?
Maybe they bumped the timing down on the initial run, then bumped it up on the modified run, therefore inflating the numbers?
Any thoughts on this dyno graph or BBK's claims?
Kinda seems like a very generous gain for just those two mods.
There are gains to me made on the TB but unfortunately not above the 70mm mark since the Gt/cobra intake throats are only 70mm. You can port them to 75 with out much trouble.
 

sluggish94

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On my 95 gt I installed the none adjustable roller rockers ford racing set
Its a upgrade from the cobra roller rockers
I like them better than the original equipment

You mean going from this:
IMG_0829.JPG
to this style?
IMG_0830.JPG

I've used both style rockers before with good results.
 

sluggish94

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There are gains to me made on the TB but unfortunately not above the 70mm mark since the Gt/cobra intake throats are only 70mm. You can port them to 75 with out much trouble.

Yea, opening up the intake inlet is gonna be another thing on my to do list. I just have to invest in a solid rotary tool. The overlap isn't terrible from TB to intake. I had a choice between a 65mm and a 75mm for close to the same price and I just went the larger inlet size.
 

sluggish94

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Im going to use these Edelbrock short tube headers.
IMG_0893.jpg
IMG_0894.jpg
They came with the purchase of the car but I hadn't really given them any attention. The previous owner mentioned that he tried to install them. Obviously he failed cause they're on my table right now. With good reason though, because I checked the mating surface with a straightedge and they're not completely flat. I'll be taking them to a machine shop to get trued. I tried looking up any identifiable numbers online but with no luck. I didn't even know Edelbrock made headers for the 302 Windsor!
They have the EGR tube welded on which looks like it was definitely there from the manufacturer, so I'm inclined to believe they are specific for SN-95. I also think these are ceramic coated, considering they are used and don't look like the chrome or steel ones after some heat cycles. You can tell the manufacturers tried to keep the symmetry between each side really close. I like them and I think they'll do ok for my intended purpose.
IMG_0895.jpg
Gonna trim this gasket just a smidgeon and hopefully throw them on this weekend.
 

joe65

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that has the gt40 heads, right?
 

sluggish94

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I had a chance to throw the headers on today. Here's a picture comparing the factory headers to the Edelbrock headers:
IMG_0955.jpg
Here's one of the stock header ports vs. the aftermarket header port. I did clean the port opening just a bit. Anything helps, I'd say.
IMG_0949.jpg
I also opened up the collector on the Edelbrock headers to a true 2.5in. Here's the one I hacked vs. how they came.
IMG_0952.jpg
ARP bolts were less than $20 bucks so I threw some on there. They look nice.
IMG_0953.jpg
Passenger side installed. Wrapped the #3 plug wire with some heat tape for extra insurance. Nothing crazy. I had to make a weird plug contraption with two washers, a nut and a bolt right where the EGR plug was because it was previously plugged with a penny. I'm definitely an engineer.
IMG_0956.jpg
Driver's side all good:
IMG_0957.jpg

Did I feel a difference between the stock shorties and these? I think yes.
I think there has been a very slight gain with all three mods I've done, Full exhaust, 1.7 Roller Rockers, and TB. Altogether though they have made quite the difference in sound and performance, without sacrificing drivability.

Next is a set of these Explorer 19's I got for pretty inexpensive:
IMG_0904.JPG
The idea is better fuel atomization from the 4 hole's at the pintle cap as opposed the single outlet on the stock 19s. I also got a Walbro 255LPH in-tank pump so that will also be going in soon as well.

Most recent picture of Dirty Money:
IMG_0866.jpg
Thanks for looking.
 

Werecow

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Oh yeh!! All the small changes will add up over time!! Looks like you're getting a buttload of work done on your ride!! Keep it up!!
 

sluggish94

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Oh yeh!! All the small changes will add up over time!! Looks like you're getting a buttload of work done on your ride!! Keep it up!!

You know how it is man, they're always a work in progress. I'm still trying to stay close to my budget of 5K and I'm pretty much there. I do have a handful of things in store for it that should keep me busy for the next couple months (i hope).

Well, I gotta always remember to plug everything back in when I work on it. I forgot to plug in the overflow tank harness and it became acquainted with my e-fan.
IMG_0965.jpg
I earned myself a trip to the junkyard. I just redid this section of harness.
IMG_0966.jpg
Offset the wires a bit to avoid bulging in one area when taped up again.
E74355BD-128E-4664-B032-F28C8F5120F6.JPG

I used to dread wiring. Was really scared of doing it. It's not so bad.
Gonna have some cool stuff here soon too. Hopefully all this small stuff doesn't hold me back too much.
 

ttocs

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if you don't put some good heat shrink over those the connections inside will slowly corrode. I also can't help but notice that the crimps on the butt connectors looks like they were crimped with a krimper similar to this style?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner...67K/202518592?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US

If that is the case then its time to upgrade your tools a little bit to get a better connection. This is the style that is universally used in the automotive world for making solid/one time crimps. You can get them at homedepot in the electrical section(not in the tool area). Those flat crimpers just do not get the pressure in the right place to lock them in even if you do a double crimp as it looks like your doing.

When your done with a crimp, or with any connection your final test should be to give the connection a solid tug/pull to ensure it will not come apart with only slight pressure. If it can't handle 5-10 lbs, its not a good crimp.
 

sluggish94

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if you don't put some good heat shrink over those the connections inside will slowly corrode. I also can't help but notice that the crimps on the butt connectors looks like they were crimped with a krimper similar to this style?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner...67K/202518592?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US

If that is the case then its time to upgrade your tools a little bit to get a better connection. This is the style that is universally used in the automotive world for making solid/one time crimps. You can get them at homedepot in the electrical section(not in the tool area). Those flat crimpers just do not get the pressure in the right place to lock them in even if you do a double crimp as it looks like your doing.

When your done with a crimp, or with any connection your final test should be to give the connection a solid tug/pull to ensure it will not come apart with only slight pressure. If it can't handle 5-10 lbs, its not a good crimp.

ttocs thank you for the words of wisdom. Yes, I am using one of those crimper tools like the one you linked. I try to make sure everything is solid by giving it the old tug test like you mentioned. It's not an area where "good enough" is an acceptable reasoning. Best way to get a connection would be to actually solder the wires together but I gave it a shot once and failed pretty badly.
 

sluggish94

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Next big thing got here last week.
IMG_0975.jpg
I wanted to do a write up on how to install it but I was way too excited and just threw it on. First time setting up a wet system.
IMG_1072.jpg
Just got my 19lb EV1 explorer injectors too but first they will get new pintle caps and o-rings installed on them. This has been quite the distraction from getting the paint work done. Still working on it. More updates soon.
 

sluggish94

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I discovered something rather interesting:
IMG_1166.jpg
IMG_1167.jpg
This would probably explain why it would take forever for this car to warm up. I found a Pypes X-pipe in my local classifieds with the O2 bungs will intact. I'm almost 100% sure this is the EXACT same X-pipe that I had on my red Foxbody. I used to run a Pypes X-pipe and got rid of around 2018 when I went Turbo. It's too much of a coincidence that I find an almost identical one on the other side of town two years later. Anyways, it looks like a nice 2.5in stainless piece. Fits perfectly with my Cobra flow tubes and 2.5in. Magnaflow mufflers.
IMG_1160.jpg
I have to get proper hangers welded on the X-pipe and also on the mufflers. The muffler shop was closed on the weekend so I will have to go sometime during the week. For now it look kinda like this underneath:
IMG_1177.jpg
I had to make a couple minor adjustments but I dig it. With the hangers it will sit just a touch higher I would think. It was only right to get some brand new O2 sensors. I got some Bosch replacements.
Drivers Side:
IMG_1172.jpg
Passenger Side:
IMG_1174.jpg
Here's a comparison between the BBK X-pipe and the Pipes X-pipe.
CAA8B99B-9386-4A6C-B2AB-FDD80EBC88F7.JPG
I ended up putting the stock headers back on too. Something about those weird Edelbrock headers that I could find any information on just wasn't right. It made the car shudder real bad from 3200-5000 rpm. It just didn't feel right. Much smoother now with the stock headers, Pypes X-pipe, brand new O2 sensors, and Magnaflows. I have an appointment for a dyno day on October 14th at a local dyno shop. I'm going to have to make sure everything is A1 by then. Going to be throwing a 150 shot at it. Next post is some injector swap pictures.
 

sluggish94

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Injector-less lower:
IMG_1186.jpg
Jetronic EV1 19lb. Explorer Injectors:
IMG_1188.jpg
IMG_1193.jpg
I didn't think the change would be drastic, but I must say, I'm very impressed with how smooth the engine accelerates now. Worth the $80 I have in them. I threw on a stock lower intake gasket I had laying around for like a year. Figured it could only help the seal because there was some nastiness around the middle of the lower by the EGR passage. I still have to drop the tank and install the 255 pump, throw some nitrous plugs in the engine, bump the timing down to about 8* and get a new rotor under the distributor cap. I also just got some prothane poly engine mounts that will go in before dyno day. Too much fun with this little beater I swear. Heres my most recent picture of Bad Business the race car and Dirty Money the beater:
IMG_1179.jpg
Thanks for your interest in the build, and thanks for looking.
 

Werecow

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Hey throw a bone out about Bad Business too! Sharp looking fox!
 

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