Door locks wont work with door buttons or remote...

Stangswagalicious

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So, iv read a bunch into this and so far it seems like everyones issue is different... either one door button works, or none of them works but the fob works or one button will only unlock it but not lock it, ect...

My situations is as such. Neither the remote or either door button un lock or lock my car. I recently reprogrammed the remote to the rke and now when i hit the buttons on the fob or either door button, i can hear the rke click. (It wasnt before i reprogrammed the remote) and to prove it further, the key fob will now pop the hatch and when i hit the lock button twice, it honks the horn. Thus proving, the rke is recieving signal from fob and buttons but nothing locks or unlocks the door. However, you can manually pull and push the locks very easy, and the key works in the doors very easy as well.

I have checked all the fuses. They are all good. I havent checked for power at the actuator yet. When i get time, (maybe even tomorrow) il get the door panels off and check for power at the switches and locks actuators.

I was curious if theres anything else to check first? Iv heard of horror storys of wires in the door jam getting cut or breaking. Which, if im not getting power would be the first thing check. But if the rke is working, what else is there to check? It just seems weird that neither door button works and the remote doesnt work either. I feel like im missing something... Thanks in advance
 

ttocs

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by "all the fuses", do you mean maybe the two fuses listed in the manual that might be related or did you literally check every fuse? If you have not pulled/inspeced EVER fuse both under the dash and hood go back and start there.

Have you done any work in the kick panels recently? If so start there and check that all the harnesses in them are solid.

If they are all good check for power at the switches first.
 
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Stangswagalicious

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So, it wasnt today. but, i did inspect every fuse under the hood like 2 weeks ago. All good. Today, i inspected all the fuses under the dash. All good. That being said, there are 2 funny metallic lookin fuses under the dash. One of which is fuse 12 which has something to do with the door locks. With that said, i have never done work in the kick panels. Im assuming those are down by your feet, fwd side of each door?
by "all the fuses", do you mean maybe the two fuses listed in the manual that might be related or did you literally check every fuse? If you have not pulled/inspeced EVER fuse both under the dash and hood go back and start there.

Have you done any work in the kick panels recently? If so start there and check that all the harnesses in them are solid.

If they are all good check for power at the switches first.
So, it wasnt today. but, i did inspect every fuse under the hood like 2 weeks ago. All good. Today, i inspected all the fuses under the dash. All good. That being said, there are 2 funny metallic lookin fuses under the dash. One of which is fuse 12 which has something to do with the door locks and a few other similar items. With that said, i have never done work in the kick panels. Im assuming those are down by your feet, fwd side of each door?

The mechanic in me would check for power before i inspect wires. But, who knows. I know the speakers in the door work, and so do power windows. So, if there is a pig tail or cannon plug (whatever connection) in there, its at least plugged in. Doesnt mean corrosion didnt happen of course. But, if im not getting power at the switches or actuators then i will in fact check there next.

I think what i meant to ask was, is there like. Another module, or relay, or anything between the rke and door lock actuator i dont know about? Otherwise tomorrow (monday 06/20) im probing for power at switches then actuators. I do have a haynes manual so i should be able to verify power and ground wires.
 

ttocs

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the lock system uses a 5-wire reversing polarity system. The switches do all the work there is no module between them and the locks so less parts = less money. They are also a complete pain in the ass to diagnose because they are a master/slave switch system meaning if the slave switch has a problem the master switch will stop working as well. So I would probably check the pass side switch before the drivers side since it is the slave if I remember correctly.
 
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Stangswagalicious

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Well, my plan is to start at the actuator and see if its getting power when i hit the switch. Il probably be doing that today. However, i will definitely start at the passenger side in case i need to do the switch next. That is very helpful. So thank you for that bit right there.

One more thing tho... the other day i was changing the window regulator assblies. (Both sides) i noticed on the driver side door, there was some sort of module on the aft side if the door. I believe it was actually mounted to the shroud of the door and not the door its self but im not 100% on that. When i swapped the first regulator, i tested it before i put it back together. To my surprise, nothing happened. I noticed the same big red wire ran to that module in door shroud. Once i plugged that module back in, the windows worked again.

You see, im explaining this to you because i would of never guessed there was anything in between the fuze for the windows and the actual wi dow motor its self. And i couldnt help but wonder if there was anything like this for the door lock actuators. That being said, il take your word on the master/slave and start there. As long as there is nothing between the rke and the switches i should have it figured out by the end of the day.

Thanks again guys. Iv had a lot of problems solved on this old bird in one way or another from this forum.

Will update once i find the issue!
 

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Have you replaced the batteries in the FOB? Is this the original? Your chip could be punching its ticket; new key?

Getting a new key programmed could be all that is needed. USE A LOCKSMITH, not the Ford store. I did; 1/2 the cost (~160 bucks), and it takes about twenty minutes to half-an-hour. The price I paid was for two replacement keys.

As for buttons not working, I get this once or twice a week - but it is only for the windows' operation. I have always thought the switch is rusty, or just plain old and worn out, but my door locks always work now. I have to hit the button two or three times sometimes, but I believe this is just because I am not standing in a good spot. I can unlock the doors twenty feet away no problem, but it's when I'm right next to it when the keyless does not work first or second time...
 

ttocs

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that little box you found on the back of the drivers door is the one touch relay. If it is not plugged in then your drivers side will not work. I was suggesting testing the switches because removing its panel is the first part of taking the door panel off. If you just take the panel off, test the actuator and then find the switch is bad you did a whole lot of work you didn't need to. IIRC there should be 5 pins on the back of the harness and I think the one in the middle will be hot/12v and the rest ground and then depending on what switch you push it sends power out on one of the other 4 wires.

If you were dicking in the drivers door then start there.
 
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Stangswagalicious

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Have you replaced the batteries in the FOB? Is this the original? Your chip could be punching its ticket; new key?

Getting a new key programmed could be all that is needed. USE A LOCKSMITH, not the Ford store. I did; 1/2 the cost (~160 bucks), and it takes about twenty minutes to half-an-hour. The price I paid was for two replacement keys.

As for buttons not working, I get this once or twice a week - but it is only for the windows' operation. I have always thought the switch is rusty, or just plain old and worn out, but my door locks always work now. I have to hit the button two or three times sometimes, but I believe this is just because I am not standing in a good spot. I can unlock the doors twenty feet away no problem, but it's when I'm right next to it when the keyless does not work first or second time...
My friend, the key works just fine to lock and u lock both doors. The key fob works. Autozone has a tester and it passed. Also, when i hit the lock/unlock buttons i hear the rke clicking in the back. If i lock it twice it honks and the truck will open with the button now. I did in fact just recently reprogrammed the remote to the rke. Not sure if its the original or not tho. As for buttons on the door, (for the locks) when i hit lock/unlock on either door, i still hear rke clicking in the trunk. Seems to me like its actuators because of this but im not exactly sure how its wired so. Only way to find out is to test.
 
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Stangswagalicious

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that little box you found on the back of the drivers door is the one touch relay. If it is not plugged in then your drivers side will not work. I was suggesting testing the switches because removing its panel is the first part of taking the door panel off. If you just take the panel off, test the actuator and then find the switch is bad you did a whole lot of work you didn't need to. IIRC there should be 5 pins on the back of the harness and I think the one in the middle will be hot/12v and the rest ground and then depending on what switch you push it sends power out on one of the other 4 wires.

If you were dicking in the drivers door then start there.
Ttocs, that makes a lot of sense actually. Good call on that. I did replace the window regulators on both doors but my door lock issue was there long before that. I will test the switches first. My only thing is, if the rke is clicking when i hit either button on either door, wouldnt that mean the switches are working? Or does each switch send signal to rke and actuator at the same time? Thanks for the reply. Very helpful!
 

ttocs

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The keyless entry wires in/around the system and has no effect on the switches. The switches only work if you push them. Clicking is probably the relays that are supposed to be powering the actuators but for some reason the signal is not getting to them. I would start on the drivers side and ensure that all the wires are making contact on the back of the switch, then trace any wiring as far as you can to be sure that you didn't forget to plug something in or a wire came out. Pink/yellow and pink/green are your lock/unlock wires that you wire into for a keyless but you need relays to do it. If you find those wires they should both show ground till it is either locked or unlocked and then one wire will show +12v. Push the other side of the switch and the other wire should go to 12v.
 

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