Door locks inconsistent

[Daryl]

I have the thin style door lock knobs (so not actually knobs then, right?!). Driver side would not actuate via fob or door switch. Passenger side started working again, but I can’t lock the car fully right now.

Any thoughts as to the culprit? Actuator? Fuse? Or ???

 

[ttocs]

I am not aware of a fat door lock knob myself. The problem with the locking system is that ford used a system that was cheaper for them(less parts) but harder for us later(go figure right?). its called a 5-wire reversing polarity rest at ground system, or 5-wire for short. It is a master/slave switch system meaning if the pass side(Slave) quits working, so does the master(Drivers side). Now you might have a bad drivers side switch or a bad connection to the actuator in the door. The switch is easy to test/replace as that panel is the first to come off the door panel, the actuator is a bit of a PIA to get access to inside the door to replace.

 

[Daryl]

Had a feeling the d/s door card is gonna have to come off. Not the worst or hardest thing in the world. I was considering replacing the d/s switch panel anyway. It’s a tad scratched up! Urrrrgh!

 

[badass98svt]

My car was doing this and I remedied it with some WD40 on the actuator.
If you pull off the door panel and find the lock cylinder, follow the metal rod down to the bottom of the door. The piece the rod is connected to is what I had to lube. It's been fine ever since.

 

[Daryl]

My car was doing this and I remedied it with some WD40 on the actuator.
If you pull off the door panel and find the lock cylinder, follow the metal rod down to the bottom of the door. The piece the rod is connected to is what I had to lube. It's been fine ever since.


View attachment 18789

Will do! Let ya know if it did the trick!…

 

[badass98svt]

Will do! Let ya know if it did the trick!…

I had to pull the rod up and down a few times manually and then it started working with the key fob.

 

[Daryl]

Success! The WD-40 did the trick! Tha, Badass98SVT

 

[Daryl]

I had to pull the rod up and down a few times manually and then it started working with the key fob.

It worked! I pulled the door card, gave the plunger a good dousing of WD-40 and viola! It’s working perfectly! Thank you very much!!

 

[Daryl]

Ah, hell ! Driver side not working again. Worked fine couple times, but now back to Square One :-(

When I push the lock/unlock button, it actuates but the door lock knob doesn’t go up and down. I can see it “wanting to” but it stays stuck in one place.

1. It worked fine when the door card was off after I sprayed it with WD-40

2. It worked fine a couple of times after reassembling the door card and putting everything back in place.

3. Now I’m back to Square One.

Maybe the mechanism is on its last leg?? The WD-40 obviously helped but was not a permanent fix, unfortunately.

Anyone have any further thoughts, comments or suggestions??

Thank you all once again! I sure didn’t think this was going to be such a project!

 

[ttocs]

a lot of people mistake wd40 for oil. It has some oil in it but it is actually a solvent. It is great for cleaning things, and there is a little bit of oil left over but it really just strips the grease/dirt off. You could try a dab of white lithium grease on it now to see if some of that will help it but it sounds like the actuator is on the way out, assuming the voltage to it has been tested as good

 

[Daryl]

I ordered a replacement actuator (Dorman) and retaining clips, which will be here tomorrow morning at NAPA.

Not thrilled about having to take the door card off again, especially that PITA screw that holds the tweeter in place. But, fingers crossed, hopefully this solves the problem! May as well replace the scratched up switch panel while the door’s apart. Call LMR for that…

…And the hits just keep coming!!

 

[badass98svt]

I ordered a replacement actuator (Dorman) and retaining clips, which will be here tomorrow morning at NAPA.

Not thrilled about having to take the door card off again, especially that PITA screw that holds the tweeter in place. But, fingers crossed, hopefully this solves the problem! May as well replace the scratched up switch panel while the door’s apart. Call LMR for that…

…And the hits just keep coming!!

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Daryl]

Let us know how it goes.

Will do!

 

[Daryl]

Picked up the replacement actuator and 2 retaining clips today from NAPA. A will take the damn door card off again tomorrow morning and see how it turns out.

I’m starting to suspect the retaining clips are the culprit. I don’t recall seeing any first time I took it off and since the old actuator cycled the rod up and down (when the door card was off), maybe just a misalignment caused the unit to jam?

We’ll see…

 

[ttocs]

I am pretty sure there should be two screws holding it and if both screws are still holding it then it should be lined up. If one fell out for one reason or another then yes it could be binding up just because of the missing screw, turn a little and then not move. When you got in and sprayed it and moved it you might have aligned it enough to make it work.

 

[Daryl]

Was sold the wrong one. There were 2 listed, unfortunately they chose the wrong one. Can’t blame them, it was a guess, as I didn’t know that there were different options and/or what the part itself physically looked like.
Part is coming from VA Wednesday. Will resume then.

 

[Daryl]

My car was doing this and I remedied it with some WD40 on the actuator.
If you pull off the door panel and find the lock cylinder, follow the metal rod down to the bottom of the door. The piece the rod is connected to is what I had to lube. It's been fine ever since.


View attachment 18789

Badass,
Yep, that’s the one NAPA’s sending from a VA store. That is NOT the first one I was mistakenly sold by NAPA. I’m not banging on NAPA; easy mistake anyone could have made, especially since I gave them so little information first order. Part should be here by noon today.

 

[ttocs]

everybody makes a mistake but I don't normally 2nd guess my napa guys. Any other autoparts store it seems like they are lucky to have anyone in there for more then 5-6 months but my local napa I am not sure I have seen anyone quit yet.

I also like going there because I own stock in them, but I also do in autozone as well.

 

[Daryl]

everybody makes a mistake but I don't normally 2nd guess my napa guys. Any other autoparts store it seems like they are lucky to have anyone in there for more then 5-6 months but my local napa I am not sure I have seen anyone quit yet.

I also like going there because I own stock in them, but I also do in autozone as well.

My guys at NAPA are great. Been going there 10 years +

 

[Daryl]

Ok, so everything’s torn apart and it’s NOT a faulty actuator!
The “L” shape at the bottom of the door lock rod keeps slipping out. The plastic anchor it sets into is compromised. So, I tried Gorilla Glue gel but it didn’t hold.
I’m not willing to remove the OE actuator unit because, from what I can see with a flashlight, it’s pressed in to its anchor point. And what’s the point if it’s still working fine.

So for now I’m just going to leave it setting down in the “locked” position. The actuator locks and unlocks the door. The rod/knob just don’t go up and down.
I can live with that until I locate a replacement plastic anchor that married the rod to the big metal “hook” at the top of the actuator….
BTW, anyone got one they’re willing to part with? Or know where I could source one??

Cheers!