Drag Radial/Slick Debate thread

duff daddy

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First off, post facts, post correct information or time slips, and we will go from there.

1.62 short time on a STOCK t-45, STOCK axles, STOCK clutch. Dropping the clutch @ 5500rpm and over 65 passes on that setup with 26 8.5 15 slicks.


I have no use for drag radials myself, HOWEVER, a particular NMRA FS driver did cut a 1.4x out of Nitto Drag Radials a few years ago @ z max.
 

sneaky98gt

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Ok, I'll start off by linking the post that started this so that no one twists what I have said into something that it's not. It is post number 20 in this thread. http://sn95forums.com/index.php/topic,64242.msg1050956.html#msg1050956

My info: 1.81 60'. 275/40-17 Nitto NT555R drag radials on 17x8 inch wheels. Stock 3.27 rear gears, stock automatic transmission, stock stall converter. Making roughly 330 ft-lbs of torque on the wheels at 2000 rpm. Leaving at about 1600 rpm dead hooking.


I understand why this thread was started, and I apologize for going slightly off topic in the other one, but calling it a "debate" is a little ridiculous. NO ONE is going to debate that drag radials are better than slicks at the drag strip. Bias ply slicks are made specifically to wrinkle and deform to allow the maximum amount of traction in a straight line; that soft sidewall, however, is not safe to drive on the road very often because it doesn't support any kind of lateral motion. Drag radials, on the other hand, are simply regular street tires with a relatively stiff sidewall with a softer compound to allow for more traction. They are designed to still be able to drive on the road every day. For anyone to say that a drag radial compares to a bias ply slick in straight line traction is just absurd. No one anywhere is going to debate that.

That being said, a slick is not necessarily going to improve your traction and 60' times at the track. If traction is not your problem, then stickier tires and drag suspension are not going to improve your short times, plain and simple. Telling someone with a mostly stock, automatic Mustang that they need slicks and suspension because they are only cutting 2.1 60's is bad advice. I know from experience that a mostly stock 94-04 automatic Mustang GT with stock gears and stall converter will NOT cut a 60' any better than about 2.05, and that is NOT because it doesn't have traction. It simply doesn't have the torque on the wheels to accelerate the car to a better 60'. Now when you start adding in gears, higher stall torque converters, and more power, that's an entirely different story, even though slicks are still not required with an even halfway competent driver.

Because some people seem to have a hard time understanding this concept, I'll give a ridiculous example to help people understand. My mom's 1998 automatic 4 cylinder Honda Accord. 147 brake horsepower. 215 mm width street tires. Front wheel drive. 0-60 in around 14.3 seconds. This thing will not spin the tires on a wet road, not even kidding. If I were to take it to the strip, I'd guess it would cut a 60' around 2.4-2.5 seconds, dead hooking from the line. Now, we could stick some 24x8 inch Mickey Thompson slicks on the front, as well as however much drag racing suspension $5,000 could buy from JDM, and take it back to the track. The 60' times would not improve ONE BIT, because TRACTION is not the reason for the slow 60' times, POWER is. I don't know what is so hard to understand about this. This is EXACTLY the same situation that the mostly stock automatic Mustang GT guys are facing, only with 2.0-2.2 60' times.

And to anyone who STILL doesn't understand this, I'll ask the same question that I asked in the other thread: to you guys cutting 1.5-1.6 60's on really hard launches on slicks, why are you not cutting 1.2-1.3 60's? I mean, if more traction and suspension is the answer to everything, why not just put a bigger/wider tire on your car? Heck, if you can cut another 3 or 4 tenths from your 60' simply from more traction, a wider tire should be worth nearly a second in the 1/4 mile. But we ALL know that this is not the case....

And I'll still stick to my opinion that running slicks is ridiculous for anything slower than mid 11s. Now, if you are trying to squeeze absolutely every thousandth out of your ET possible, or trying to break a record, then that's cool and I'm fine with that. But if you have a STREET car slower than 11.5 or so (which 99.9% of the folks on these forums do) and can't get it down the track on drag radials, then you need a driver mod. I've seen a lot of stock suspension street cars on street tires (NOT drag radials) running 11s with 1.7 60's, and a TON of cars in the 10s, 9s, 8s, and even 7s on 275 width DRAG RADIALS, cutting high 1.2/low 1.3 60's. If they can do it, then I don't see any reason why I can't. To quote a signature from a guy on the NDRRA forums, "RTCTTFMF! because any idiot can get down the track on slicks."

I said it in the other thread, and I'll say it again here. DO NOT think that I am bashing or saying anything bad about anyone's cars or setups. I am not. I'm simply trying to get my point across that what is good advice for one setup may not be the best advice for someone else's setup.
 

19mustang95

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sneaky98gt said:
Ok, I'll start off by linking the post that started this so that no one twists what I have said into something that it's not. It is post number 20 in this thread. http://sn95forums.com/index.php/topic,64242.msg1050956.html#msg1050956


That being said, a slick is not necessarily going to improve your traction and 60' times at the track.

LOL!!! You have no idea what you are talking about. And your examples are ridiculous, No one here gives two shits about a honda accord. No one here has a FWD mustang, so your example means nothing. "And why it doesn't spin tires on a wet road" is because it has most of it's weight over the front tires, a mustang does not have the bulk of it's weight on it's back wheels..

And i read some of your other post, and you said by using a slick you're going to break 95% of clutches, axles, etc.. That is dead wrong info. Ask any experienced racer, and they will tell you it is easier to break things on a radial.
 

sneaky98gt

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DFG_Pimpin said:
LOL!!! You have no idea what you are talking about. And your examples are ridiculous,

EXACTLY! I'm trying to make them ridiculous so that people will understand them. Apparently it isn't working....

So I'll go even MORE ridiculous. Let's take one of these:

Moped.jpg


Which has a single speed, automatic transmission. Let's run it at the strip and measure its 60' time. THEN, lets put a 4 inch wide slick on the back of it, and run it again. Wanna make a bet that it doesn't gain anything in the 60'? IT IS NOT GOING TO, BECAUSE TRACTION IS NOT ITS PROBLEM. IN THE CASE THAT TRACTION IS NOT THE PROBLEM (which is what we were originally talking about in the other thread), SLICKS AND/OR DRAG SUSPENSION IS NOT GOING TO HELP IMPROVE 60' TIMES. What do you not get about this?

No one here gives two shits about a honda accord. No one here has a FWD mustang, so your example means nothing. "And why it doesn't spin tires on a wet road" is because it has most of it's weight over the front tires, a mustang does not have the bulk of it's weight on it's back wheels..

It was used simply as an example. I don't have the data to back it up, but I'd bet that under hard acceleration (such as at a launch at the strip) the Mustang has more weight on the rear tires than the Honda does on it's front tires. It's called weight transfer. But this is not even important for this discussion, so I don't know why we are discussing it.

And i read some of your other post, and you said by using a slick you're going to break 95% of clutches, axles, etc.. That is dead wrong info. Ask any experienced racer, and they will tell you it is easier to break things on a radial.

You need to go back and read it again, because that is NOT what I said. Here's the quote:
sneaky98gt said:
You are on slicks (which I think is ridiculous for anything slower than mid-11s, but whatever); I'm on drag radials. Based on how much you tell folks they need suspension, I assume you have a decent amount of suspension work; mine is completely stock (well, it's actually lowered now). Because you mentioned it earlier, I'm assuming you are leaving pretty hard, probably clutch drops at 5,000 rpm+ (which is going to break 95% of stock clutches, transmissions, rear ends, and axles, therefore requiring that you upgrade them as well); I am leaving at about 1600 rpm on a completely stock drivetrain (including converter). ALL OF THIS, while I am trapping only a half a mph better than you, you are only .04 faster in the 1/4.

Never said anything about slicks or drag radials breaking things easier than the other. Said that 5000 rpm clutch drops break things. Which they do.
 

sneaky98gt

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And if you STILL don't get what I'm saying, please answer my question about why you are not cutting 1.2-1.3 60's.
 
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duff daddy

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Now were cooken :tard:


I personally like slicks for the fact its less variables, more predictable to get the tire to the same temp and less questions on the what if it hooks.
 

97 king cobra

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My car used to consistantly cut low 1.4's on 26x8.5's(old setup/new setup not finished yet). I personally like slicks over radials because for the most part you are going to get a better ET out of the slick and the car will be more consistant.

That being said, yes there is a class called x275 where the only tires u can run are 275/60/15 and with a limited set of rules most of those cars are running bottom 5's/high 4's in the eighth which computes to approx a high 7 second quarter mile pass.

There is also the ODR (outlaw drag radial) class which has even less rules and uses a 315/60/15 drag radial and those cars are running mid 4's or high 6's in the quarter mile.

But if you ask anyone of those guys if they had to make the fastest pass of their life (given time to setup their car for whatever tire possible) 99% of them are gonna go with a big slick.
 
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duff daddy

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alot of that depends on how far south you go, NOrth is slick country, south is more and more of the Drag Radial Revolution.... ask the mayor..
 

Paul

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This thread is funny. You guys are so passionate about this!


I wanna hear more about the scooter with Mickey Thompson E/T Drags on it.
 

Knuckles@Empire

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Well its a fairly cut and dry topic, while Sneaky makes the point that if you dont have traction problems then dont adress traction idea is correct, even a stock Mustang will spin off the line be it a little or a lot. If your going "DRAG" racing then simply put drag suspension/tires are going to help your car out all around as that is what it is meant to do. As for what tire is better that is also not a contest, it simply is a matter of preference, the 275 classes and what not are trying to push their respective cars to some serious edge, and it is trully amazing some of the stuff they can do with such small tires. I personally tend to run full slicks although i did run a 315/35 17R on my 95 Cobra before selling it to a good friend, i street drove with them and would spray the piss out of it at the track with decent results. Currently on my 96 i have 28/10.5 15R MT Drags which is the biggest tire i will run on it for my personal setup. As for shit breaking on slicks, that is not false lol if you used to take a stock axled Stang to the strip at 66 out in Illinois and so much as run a 26x8 kiss those axles good night lol. Alot of that end ups being track prep though as most local tracks dont prep as well as i think they should anyways. Anywho my .02c's , and Duff long time no talk brotha.

Knuckles
 

RockstarMentality

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As a physics student, I know that increasing surface area does not increase friction.
As a racer, I know that running wider tires DOES increase friction.
Anyone want to take a stab at this one?
 
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duff daddy

duff daddy

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knuckles4696 said:
Well its a fairly cut and dry topic, while Sneaky makes the point that if you dont have traction problems then dont adress traction idea is correct, even a stock Mustang will spin off the line be it a little or a lot. If your going "DRAG" racing then simply put drag suspension/tires are going to help your car out all around as that is what it is meant to do. As for what tire is better that is also not a contest, it simply is a matter of preference, the 275 classes and what not are trying to push their respective cars to some serious edge, and it is trully amazing some of the stuff they can do with such small tires. I personally tend to run full slicks although i did run a 315/35 17R on my 95 Cobra before selling it to a good friend, i street drove with them and would spray the piss out of it at the track with decent results. Currently on my 96 i have 28/10.5 15R MT Drags which is the biggest tire i will run on it for my personal setup. As for sh*t breaking on slicks, that is not false lol if you used to take a stock axled Stang to the strip at 66 out in Illinois and so much as run a 26x8 kiss those axles good night lol. Alot of that end ups being track prep though as most local tracks dont prep as well as i think they should anyways. Anywho my .02c's , and Duff long time no talk brotha.

Knuckles


Yea, its hard, I will text you on my way to work tomorrow :)



RockstarMentality said:
As a racer, I know that running wider tires DOES increase friction.

Wait, first a rockstar, then an air bag and crash specialists....now a racer.... HOLY SHIT what is this world coming to....
 

Venom351R

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I was going to post some useful info in here since I've been doing it for 10 years and have used street tires drag radials and slicks but since certain members want to bring up other issues in past threads ( and don't even have that info correct) and pass along bs info in general then it just ruined it for me. I like to help others out on this topic to repay those that have done it for me but I won't do it in this thread
 

Rice_slayer

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I use slicks as the tires them selves take most of the launch "impact". I'd rather have a wrinkle wall tire that will take a good chunk of the stress off my axles than a tire which, imo, is stupid to use on the street because they wear down soooo fast, will net less consistent results and give your drivetrain a harder shock off the line with a stiffer side wall. All personal preference, I don't race competively, I race for fun and DD my mustang so anything that will help it NOT break at the track is good to me!
 
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duff daddy

duff daddy

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Venom351R said:
I was going to post some useful info in here since I've been doing it for 10 years and have used street tires drag radials and slicks but since certain members want to bring up other issues in past threads ( and don't even have that info correct) and pass along bs info in general then it just ruined it for me. I like to help others out on this topic to repay those that have done it for me but I won't do it in this thread
\


Then dont make a post to be an attention whore!






wheres my money for the wheels sucker!
 

sneaky98gt

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97 king cobra said:
My car used to consistantly cut low 1.4's on 26x8.5's(old setup/new setup not finished yet). I personally like slicks over radials because for the most part you are going to get a better ET out of the slick and the car will be more consistant.

That being said, yes there is a class called x275 where the only tires u can run are 275/60/15 and with a limited set of rules most of those cars are running bottom 5's/high 4's in the eighth which computes to approx a high 7 second quarter mile pass.

There is also the ODR (outlaw drag radial) class which has even less rules and uses a 315/60/15 drag radial and those cars are running mid 4's or high 6's in the quarter mile.

But if you ask anyone of those guys if they had to make the fastest pass of their life (given time to setup their car for whatever tire possible) 99% of them are gonna go with a big slick.

Funny you mention the 275 cars. I went to a big 275 race a couple of weeks ago. I love watching those guys run freaking FOURS on 275 width drag radials! Ridiculous! I actually got a nice video of all of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfOfHVVw_PE

They would all DEFINITELY run faster on slicks, but the main reason they went the drag radial route was to keep cost down. If traction wasn't a big issue for most of the guys, it would normally boil down to who could spend the most money. That's what happened to the 10.5 Outlaw class from 6-8 years ago. So these guys decided to limit it to a drag radial so that it wasn't always just a matter of throwing more money at it.

AND, it is a TON of fun to watch.

Paul said:
I wanna hear more about the scooter with Mickey Thompson E/T Drags on it.

If I had the time and money, I'd do it just to prove a point.

knuckles4696 said:
Well its a fairly cut and dry topic, while Sneaky makes the point that if you dont have traction problems then dont adress traction idea is correct, even a stock Mustang will spin off the line be it a little or a lot.

Knuckles

Yes, that is really the only point I'm trying to make. In the first paragraph of my first post in this thread, I CLEARLY stated the slicks drastically outperform drag radials at the strip.

And that's still not entirely true about still spinning. Trust me, a mostly stock, stock geared, AUTOMATIC 94-98 Mustang GT has NO traction problems at the strip. I made around 150 passes at the strip while COMPLETELY stock, on 245 width street tires. Traction was NEVER a problem.

This thread/"debate" got started because it was suggested that someone with an almost stock 95 5.0 (automatic) was having traction problems because they were only cutting 2.1-2.2 60's, and that slicks and drag suspension were need to bring those times down. I KNOW, from experience, that 2.1-2.2 is about what a 94-98 automatic GT is going to cut in the 60' when it hooks up perfectly fine. Just like I KNOW that slicks and/or slicks would have done nothing for his car other than burned a hole in his pocket.

RockstarMentality said:
As a physics student, I know that increasing surface area does not increase friction.
As a racer, I know that running wider tires DOES increase friction.
Anyone want to take a stab at this one?

Sure. It's because neither the tire nor the road is a smooth surface. Friction is only a part of the traction of un-smooth surfaces. The other part is a normal force. Think of roughness of your tires and the road as valleys and peaks of mountains; as they touch, the peaks of the tires goes down into the valleys of the road, and vice versa. This creates a lateral (or normal) force against the tire. Thus, you increase the surface area and you increase the area that this happens over, resulting in more traction.

It also has to do with better heat dissipation, but that goes beyond my scope of knowledge on the subject.

Venom351R said:
I was going to post some useful info in here since I've been doing it for 10 years and have used street tires drag radials and slicks but since certain members want to bring up other issues in past threads ( and don't even have that info correct) and pass along bs info in general then it just ruined it for me. I like to help others out on this topic to repay those that have done it for me but I won't do it in this thread

Please post away. I'm not trying to single you or anyone else out, and I don't doubt one bit that you have a TON of good tech advice. BUT, you are incorrect in assuming that a 2.0-2.2 60' means someone is spinning (or doesn't have enough traction). I KNOW, from first hand EXPERIENCE, that with lots of mostly stock automatic Mustangs, this is NOT the case. They are simply not putting enough torque ON THE WHEELS to accelerate the car to a faster 60'. I have been there, and done that, HUNDREDS of times.

It's the same reason that a moped can't get better than a 5 second 60'.

It's the same reason that a 82 Ford Ranger can't get better than a 4 second 60'.

It's the same reason that YOUR CAR can't cut a 1.2 60'

And that reason has NOTHING to do with traction. It all has to do with POWER (or more specifically, torque on the wheels). The 60' time for a mostly stock automatic Mustang just happens to be in the 2.0-2.2 range, with PERFECT traction.

Rice_slayer said:
I use slicks as the tires them selves take most of the launch "impact". I'd rather have a wrinkle wall tire that will take a good chunk of the stress off my axles than a tire which, imo, is stupid to use on the street because they wear down soooo fast, will net less consistent results and give your drivetrain a harder shock off the line with a stiffer side wall.

I agree, and as I clearly stated earlier, drag radials are not as good as slicks for hooking at the track. Cut and dry. No debate there. But at the same time, if there is no need for slicks, why waste the money?

And as for the personal preference? I prefer to legally DRIVE my STREET car to the strip...
 

RockstarMentality

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sneaky98gt said:
RockstarMentality said:
As a physics student, I know that increasing surface area does not increase friction.
As a racer, I know that running wider tires DOES increase friction.
Anyone want to take a stab at this one?

Sure. It's because neither the tire nor the road is a smooth surface. Friction is only a part of the traction of un-smooth surfaces. The other part is a normal force. Think of roughness of your tires and the road as valleys and peaks of mountains; as they touch, the peaks of the tires goes down into the valleys of the road, and vice versa. This creates a lateral (or normal) force against the tire. Thus, you increase the surface area and you increase the area that this happens over, resulting in more traction.

It also has to do with better heat dissipation, but that goes beyond my scope of knowledge on the subject.

So what you're saying, its not that wider tires create more friction, its that the wider tire grips the road better in a sense of having more stuff to "grab ahold of and push on", for lack of a better term? The way I'm seeing this is that the rubber tires sink down into the crevices of the road, which i can see how that would increase traction.
However, I was always told that wider tires were "softer" and therefore had a higher (mu). If a person were to create a softer, skinnier tire it would have the exact same amount of traction as a wider one. I knew this was not the case, but I had no alternative solution or explanation.
Another analogy, correct me if im wrong. Take a plastic cog wheel, connect it to a gear. Spin the cog wheel, it grabs the gear and spins. Spin the cog wheel too hard and it snaps (i.e. loses traction). However, if you add more cog wheels (i.e. wider tires) and more gears, you can spin the cog wheel harder before they break.
 

97 king cobra

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The whole power/traction topic is really relative. Like I mentioned before, with my old setup I consistantly went low 1.4's and the car only made 380-390rwhp(depended on bottle psi). The car also ran 11.2-11.4 in the 1/4th. Most cars running that slow and making that little hp dont 60' that well. So saying hp directly relates to 60' or even the type/size of a tire is incorrect.

Take my new setup for example, it should easily make 750-800rwhp on low boost and over 1000rwhp when I turn it up. Without changing angles of the rear suspension and playing with the shocks/struts and coilovers im willing to bet with the same exact tires ill run a worse 60' than I did before.

Getting a car to hook is an art, skill and usually increasingly harder and harder as you make more power. It takes a lot of practice runs, adjustments, time, and even luck to get it right. And sometimes youll think you are dead hooking or "getting everything out of it" then you accidently do something different and it picks up a tenth.

Its funny how things work......
 

Rice_slayer

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@Sneaky, I legally drive my car to the track, who the hell in the right mind drives 2 hours on the highway on slicks? I just bolt the slicks on at the track...
 

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