I am installing my new headers on my 95 this weekend and I cannot seem to find the info I need on the egr delete .. I have searched under egr delete on this forum but can't seem to find the info .. Can I cap off the egr tube on the headers and leave the valve in place ?? Will it trip the check engine light ?? Thanks for any help !!
EGR delete
- Thread starter hips95gt
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If you leave the valve on there and hooked up with the connector attached to the solenoid, you should be fine. Some people get away with ditching it all together and CLAIMING the light doesn't come on at all and that they DON'T have any problems with part throttle detonation but I wasn't so lucky until I had it tuned to shut off the EGR function. Remember, the ONLY benefit of ditching EGR is getting rid of ugliness or that you got a deal on some fox headers and don't have the port. EGR is NOT operating during Wide Open Throttle! There are more than a few ways to "trick" the system though.
ONE is detach the valve assembly from the intake, remove the soloenoid assy from the valve, and figure out a way to "fix" the plunger halfway down. Once you secured it like that, tuck it out of sight! Either fabricate a block off plate yourself OR you can use a 351 fuel pump block off plate.
Second is use the SAME method to block off the intake and this time...use resistors in the connector of the EGR valve to "trick the system." Here is the diagram. This worked for me but only for a little bit.
The BEST solution is Block of the intake...and get the car tuned to actually SHUT OFF the EGR function in the ECU.
Make SURE you take all associated vaccum lines and CAP or PLUG them. This is most important on the intake manifold to avoid leaks. Tuck any lines out of sight. If you have your car tuned to eliminate EGR, you can safely remove the emissions stuff in the fenderwell on the passenger side as well...just leave the Charcoal Canister in tact.
Again, some people get by with out idle surge, check engine lights, or part throttle pinging. If you do, more power to ya! But my car wasn't so lucky.
There you have it! The ins and outs of EGR delete!
ONE is detach the valve assembly from the intake, remove the soloenoid assy from the valve, and figure out a way to "fix" the plunger halfway down. Once you secured it like that, tuck it out of sight! Either fabricate a block off plate yourself OR you can use a 351 fuel pump block off plate.
Second is use the SAME method to block off the intake and this time...use resistors in the connector of the EGR valve to "trick the system." Here is the diagram. This worked for me but only for a little bit.
The BEST solution is Block of the intake...and get the car tuned to actually SHUT OFF the EGR function in the ECU.
Make SURE you take all associated vaccum lines and CAP or PLUG them. This is most important on the intake manifold to avoid leaks. Tuck any lines out of sight. If you have your car tuned to eliminate EGR, you can safely remove the emissions stuff in the fenderwell on the passenger side as well...just leave the Charcoal Canister in tact.
Again, some people get by with out idle surge, check engine lights, or part throttle pinging. If you do, more power to ya! But my car wasn't so lucky.
There you have it! The ins and outs of EGR delete!
TripleBlack
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if my erg tube does not seat all the way down the way it should, would that y i am getting a part throttle backfire, thought it was the timing....if so how can i fix this can i just put some thing around the tube i seal it or does it have to sit all the way down?
scootin95gts
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the past owner on my car del my egr and has all kinds of shit capped,but he left the egr on the throttle body and from what u said above all i have to do is buy a 351 fp block off plate and take off that ugly shit and replace it with the plate correct? also i have no engine light codes and i dont believe im getting any running prob's so im guessin he did it right
Well, if the EGR valve is still on there...is the electrical connector still hooked up? If so, the EGR probably thinks its still functioning. If you drop the EGR off of there you have to trick the ECU via the solenoid and use any of the above mentioned ways. But YES, in so many words, if you slap the plate on there and yank the solenoid off.
Trickflow.GT
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what about those plugs they sell on ebay that go right into the wiring harness...for $19 you think they'll actually work?
Trickflow.GT said:
You can make the same thing from radio shack. I bought a pack of a shitload of various ohm resistors. The above diagram shows you where they go in the plug. I had limited success with it. It kept the CEL off for a bit but it would still come on after about 10-15 minutes of driving. Your results may vary but its only like 5 bucks.
scootin95gts
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well i got my 351 fp plate over where the egr was and been driving for more than a week now and no cel so i guess im good.wish the stupid guy before me didnt weld such a big ass nut and make my headers look like crap!!
scootin95gts
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hey buddy i just put my 351 plate on and i got a pic of it here she is
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FWIW - here's my experience.
I just tried to do this about two weeks ago, and ended up reinstalling all the old stuff back on again.
I bought the little plug online and it didn't work. I got a CEL and my code reader said "EGR not opening properly" or something. Not only that, but my idle quality sucked, and the car didn't run right. Plus, your EGR actually helps your fuel mileage which was even more reason to put it back on.
I cleaned up the valve (knocked off the rust on the iron part) and polished the EGR tube. (which is stainless steel BTW) It doesn't look so bad now, and I don't have a stupid CEL. Someday when the car needs a chip I'll switch it off and remove all that stuff, but for now I'll just leave it.
Paul.
I just tried to do this about two weeks ago, and ended up reinstalling all the old stuff back on again.
I bought the little plug online and it didn't work. I got a CEL and my code reader said "EGR not opening properly" or something. Not only that, but my idle quality sucked, and the car didn't run right. Plus, your EGR actually helps your fuel mileage which was even more reason to put it back on.
I cleaned up the valve (knocked off the rust on the iron part) and polished the EGR tube. (which is stainless steel BTW) It doesn't look so bad now, and I don't have a stupid CEL. Someday when the car needs a chip I'll switch it off and remove all that stuff, but for now I'll just leave it.
Paul.
paul said:FWIW - here's my experience.
I just tried to do this about two weeks ago, and ended up reinstalling all the old stuff back on again.
I bought the little plug online and it didn't work. I got a CEL and my code reader said "EGR not opening properly" or something. Not only that, but my idle quality sucked, and the car didn't run right. Plus, your EGR actually helps your fuel mileage which was even more reason to put it back on.
I cleaned up the valve (knocked off the rust on the iron part) and polished the EGR tube. (which is stainless steel BTW) It doesn't look so bad now, and I don't have a stupid CEL. Someday when the car needs a chip I'll switch it off and remove all that stuff, but for now I'll just leave it.
Paul.
Well thats just made up my mind for me, its staying for the time being.
i think my EGR valve went bad. or the sensor. My car is getting no power and the car doesnt want to take off it likes to studder if i take off under 2000rpms. then the engine and car shakes bad when ever i take off and when i am at idle. i took unhooked the egr to see if thats what was wrong and the car ran a little better but wasnt fixed. just less shaking at idle but still jerked when taking off. would it be better to just get en egr delete or replacing it?
Kirko said:
If it was me, I'd just fix it. It may be ugly bla bla bal but on a near stock car, i'd rather fix it. You can take the EGR apart and clean it up....something might just be stuck....or try the resistor trick. Its cheap and it may work.
What if you unbolt that light gray part with the electrical connector and connect that to the wiring harness instead of those cheap ebay egr simulators? Do you know if this idea will successfully trick the ECU into believing the valve is actually bolted up to the intake?
Dekorum said:
What if you unbolt that light gray part with the electrical connector and connect that to the wiring harness instead of those cheap ebay egr simulators? Do you know if this idea will successfully trick the ECU into believing the valve is actually bolted up to the intake?
Take that connector off....on it you'll find a plunger. Figure out someway of securing the plunger roughly half way down. Hook it up to the harness and tuck it away. I personally have never ran this setup but I've seen others do it with success. Everyone had a different way of securing it down....most involved LOTS of tape.
ryclef331 said:Dekorum said:
What if you unbolt that light gray part with the electrical connector and connect that to the wiring harness instead of those cheap ebay egr simulators? Do you know if this idea will successfully trick the ECU into believing the valve is actually bolted up to the intake?
Take that connector off....on it you'll find a plunger. Figure out someway of securing the plunger roughly half way down. Hook it up to the harness and tuck it away. I personally have never ran this setup but I've seen others do it with success. Everyone had a different way of securing it down....most involved LOTS of tape.
I will play around with it tomorrow, take the connector part off, and see what you mean about a plunger. It seems a little confusing for now, but I will see once I open it. Lots of tape doesn't sound too good though... especially in my engine bay. On second note, I got this EGR simulator from ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-9...020QQitemZ300128417683QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW and the thing worked for a little bit, but once I turned on the AC the CEL came back on. Since then I have reset the battery and rehooked that simulator back up and the light is off. I am going to try to leave it alone for a few days then run the AC once the computer gets used to it, and hopefully the light will stay off. BUT, do you think the simulator at www.adaptiveperformance.com is going to work better than that ebay one that I bought? I wonder if the one at adaptive will work on first try even with the AC on.
They may work. I've seen adaptive performance's skip shift eliminator plugs work great first hand. I haven't personally used any EGR elims from them but I'd trust a legit company alot more than some asshole with a soldering iron on ebay....
Yeah, I messed up by getting this ebay garbage in the first play. I am going to leave it for a few days and see if I can eventually use the AC with the ebay eliminator on. If anything I will order adaptive's later on. I don't even know if I am going to mess with the connector on the actual egr valve or not.
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