EGR delete

riored96gt · Jul 20, 2007

Why not just buy another gasket and make a soild block-off plate out of .080 aluminum? Install it between the EGR and the plenum.
Take it off for a smog test!

ryclef331 · Jul 21, 2007

he is asking how to ditch the cel....not how to block it off.

purplehaze · Aug 3, 2007

i wasnt so lucky like others just by blocking it off and having my car run with no problems. my problem was that i had surging idle and when i came to a complete stop somewhere, the car just shut off everytime. it would turn off immediately when i turned the AC on.so i just put the factory crap back on.car felt a little more responsive at take off for some reason.

chrajohns0 · Aug 13, 2007

ryclef331 said:
ONE is detach the valve assembly from the intake, remove the soloenoid assy from the valve, and figure out a way to "fix" the plunger halfway down. Once you secured it like that, tuck it out of sight! Either fabricate a block off plate yourself OR you can use a 351 fuel pump block off plate.

now this is what you are talking about when you say the plunger... right? has anyone done this? i am wanting to do it.

Dekorum · Sep 28, 2007

I finally realized that it's way better to just cap off the header hole and leave the valve completely in place and connected to the wiring harness. My only concern, after I have been running this way for a few months, is it better to leave the EGR hole from the valve just open and letting air in/out or somehow find a cap that screws onto the VALVE itself to block off that hole. The reason I am wondering this now is because I noticed my friend had the hole on his EGR valve welded shut, along with the header hole of course. Any inputs on how the car will run with the egr valve hole left open or capped (I'd rather not weld it)?

ryclef331 · Sep 28, 2007

If you leave it open, it will be allowing straight unmetered air to enter the intake. Its best to close it off....but I don't get why you're elminating just the tube. There is NO benefit to this whatsoever....In fact, you still run the risk of part throttle detonation...this may not be the case for your car (based on the fuel you run, weather, altitude, timing, etc) but regardless, you still have the big rusty hunk-o-shit hanging off the intake.

Dekorum · Sep 28, 2007

Actually, in my case, it is NOT a big rusty hunk of shit hanging off my intake anymore. I took it off and painted the rusty valve ceramic black enamel. So its pretty nice and good looking right now. I realized that there is no real benefit in just removing the tube, right. But I'd rather have the tube out of the way so it looks less cluttered and when you are doing stuff like spark plug changes and wire changes you want as least things as possible in that area. So is it something I should have been worried about for quite some time, the fact that I am letting unmetered air into my intake? I really don't want to weld mine but I believe it would be hard to find a cap that screws on perfectly. Although I did order a cap especially made to screw onto the header hole, which is also a reason I don't want to put the EGR tube back on. That sucker is on so tight that theres no way I am removing it again, hehe. Anyway, can you explain to me the part throttle detonation thing? All I know is that I've heard the EGR valve hole will close automatically at WOT.. I don't know if that means anything but I know that I won't be letting any air through that hole when I'm at WOT right?
Oh yeah, and the reason I would rather keep the valve in place (rusty hunk of shit) is of course because I don't want a damn check engine light and non of the EGR eliminators are working worth of shit for my car. Plus, finding tape to hold down the plunger on the EGR sensor is a pain in the ass and didn't work for me. And yes of course it looks the cleanest when you have zero EGR and the blockoff plate on your intake, which I did have at one point. I still do have the blockoff plate, lol..

Long post.. sorry. =)

ryclef331 · Sep 28, 2007

I get what you're saying. As for the part throttle detonation, its all explained in my very first post and YES you're right, the valve does close at WOT so no air would get in. While at the part throttle though, the valve opens to allow what is SUPPOSED to be exhaust gas. By inducing this exhaust gas into the intake charge, it actually stabilizes the air/fuel mix and also results in cooler combustion temps and egt's. If you take that away, you make it less stable and more suceptable to detonating (provided the computer wasn't recal'd). Take it away AND leave the valve open, you are now letting more UNMETERED air in. You've created a vaccum leak as well as a lean condition. Now, yes you can get away with it in some cases but its your car not mine.

Wayne · Feb 28, 2008

the sensor is a variable resistor so the computer can tell just how far open the valve is or if it is closed "it is not a switch." "this is the reason a fixed resistance still gives you a code light." I had problems with mine not shutting all the way too and I took it off put a hand vacuum pump on it and opened the valve then I took a pin knife and scratched the carbon build up off the top of the stem of the valve. you have work all the way around the stem working through the slots under the diaphragm just scratch off the carbon but try not o scratch the shaft to much this is were the exhaust is sealed off when the valve is open and seal prevents vacuum leak when its closed. if it has a carbon build up it will not let the valve close completely and the sensor sees this and you also get exhaust into the intake air stream at Idle which leans it out and causes a rough Idle. hope this helps. :thumb:

ryclef331 · Feb 28, 2008

Wayne said:
the sensor is a variable resistor so the computer can tell just how far open the valve is or if it is closed "it is not a switch." "this is the reason a fixed resistance still gives you a code light." I had problems with mine not shutting all the way too and I took it off put a hand vacuum pump on it and opened the valve then I took a pin knife and scratched the carbon build up off the top of the stem of the valve. you have work all the way around the stem working through the slots under the diaphragm just scratch off the carbon but try not o scratch the shaft to much this is were the exhaust is sealed off when the valve is open and seal prevents vacuum leak when its closed. if it has a carbon build up it will not let the valve close completely and the sensor sees this and you also get exhaust into the intake air stream at Idle which leans it out and causes a rough Idle. hope this helps. :thumb:

great post

95-stang · Feb 28, 2008

Agreed, very interesting and well explained. :thumb:

idro · May 6, 2008

Ok, all BS aside when i take my car to get tuned i tell my tuner to turn off EGR and ill have no probs so ill just put a cap on the intake, and a cap on the header right?

95 svt cobra · Jul 27, 2008

just FYI i did a egr delete over the weekend, the plate you use is a Mr. Gasket 1517 351c fuel pump block off plate, i got it at schucks for about $6, and as far as the header cap, im still lost, but from what im told, its a metric cap or you can use a 11/16 pipe cap and just waste the threads. Ive also seen that people use a penny, but i would imagine since pennies are mostly copper that it would melt and cause issues.

ryclef331 · Jul 29, 2008

95 svt cobra said:
Ive also seen that people use a penny, but i would imagine since pennies are mostly copper that it would melt and cause issues.

You imagination would be wrong sir. I ran a penny for well over a year before I pulled the motor and just welded it shut when I was bored. Yes, pennies are copper...but haven't you ever seen copper header gaskets?

riored96gt · Jul 30, 2008

ryclef331 said:
95 svt cobra said:

Ive also seen that people use a penny, but i would imagine since pennies are mostly copper that it would melt and cause issues.

Click to expand...

You imagination would be wrong sir. I ran a penny for well over a year before I pulled the motor and just welded it shut when I was bored. Yes, pennies are copper...but haven't you ever seen copper header gaskets?

I used to make an aluminum plate just like the gasket without the holes sandwiched with another gasket as a blockoff. They lasted 5 years on the turbo T-bird and 13 years on the truck. The '89 5.0 still has it on it. I take them off for smog test.

95 svt cobra · Jul 30, 2008

hmm good point ry, i forgot all about copper header gaskets! :hammer:

sn95gtvert · Jan 27, 2010

the penny has worked for me for about a year now. penny on the egr and header side. cut your tube in half and use the nuts on it as plugs...

slo1 · Feb 3, 2010

Ive come to the conclusion that different methods work on different cars and none work on mine I tried all, with the penny,tried a block off plate,I tried every way but deleting it in the computer and as long as it was blocked my car will not idle it runs rough. So I ended up running a hose from where the smog hose use to be connected to the x pipe to the egr valve and it worked perfect no cel and idles good with the exception of needing a tune for the new motor