Eibach Pro Plus suspension kit + new pads/rotors...

TrickVert

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TrickVert,
Interesting. I ran Tokiko’s on a ‘92 Acura Integra “back in the day” and was not impressed. I’m sure they’ve improved lots since then and under a Mustang application vs the Integra, I would imagine their a better marriage.

You running them on all 4 corners?
Yes. They're 5-way adjustable, and are set midway all the way around. I didn't really need the adjustability, but I got a great deal on a new set from a member of another forum, and I thought "Why not?" At the time I had thoughts of doing a track day or two until I found out I need a roll bar in most every case. :-/
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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So, all 4 corners showing ride stance gap. Side shot if pass side rear to front . Rears are 275/40x17’s on 17x9 wheels with 1” hub centric spacers . Fronts are 255/45x17 on 17x9” wheels. No spacers.

Rear gap: 2”
Front gap: 1.5”
 
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Tillerman77

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Thanks Daryl! The spring database post has a lot of missing photos after all of these years. So, it is good to get some current photos up for researchers (like me).
 

TrickVert

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Daryl: Are you sure you got the rear springs set properly in the seats? If you don't get the tails rotated correctly, that can result in the car setting higher than intended.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Daryl: Are you sure you got the rear springs set properly in the seats? If you don't get the tails rotated correctly, that can result in the car setting higher than intended.
Trick,
I’m pretty darn sure because I had the entire suspension system installed professionally by FTK(Full Throttle Kustomz) in Fillmore, CA—- who specialize in Mustangs. Only thing I noticed is the missing lower spring isolator on the pass side but after posting a thread asking after it, majority says the isolators are not critical
 

ttocs

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First don't take anything for granted because anyone can screw up. I had a set of heads and a cam installed by a shop called "The Mustang Shop" and the got the head gaskets on backwards which of course leads to cooling issues, which is bad in pheonix. They should have either had the isolators on both sides, or missing from both sides depending on if they wanted it lower.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Very true, ttocs. I’m dropping the car off this Weds(12/2) for engine rebuild. I’ll have them double check the suspension install, which I’m sure they won’t mind doing because this place is 100% responsive to customers requests no matter how mundane or redundant they may seem. I know they’ll want to check it and make sure everything’s proper.

Thanks!
 

Zutz23

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Very true, ttocs. I’m dropping the car off this Weds(12/2) for engine rebuild. I’ll have them double check the suspension install, which I’m sure they won’t mind doing because this place is 100% responsive to customers requests no matter how mundane or redundant they may seem. I know they’ll want to check it and make sure everything’s proper.

Thanks!

Are you just rebuilding it back to stock or are you forging the internals cause the engine will be out ?


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Daryl

Daryl

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Daryl,
Thanks for the reply. Your back story resonates with me, which is why I am following your build updates. I am 65+ and also have been dealing with widespread arthritis since my 40s.
My 97 Cobra is still at stock height, but have been considering the various spring options for a modest lowering for much the same reasons as you have given. I won't hijack your thread with my own car's build questions.
Regarding your question about where to measure underneath, we are slightly different in where the pinch (scrape) point might be because of the different engines. In my case, my new pinch point is from the bottom of the bolt to the ground of my MM 4 point K member brace. This distance is similar to the lowest point of one of my cats.
Do you have any views of the car on the ground showing the new (reduced) fender gap?
View attachment 8058
U
Are you just rebuilding it back to stock or are you forging the internals cause the engine will be out ?cam


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Doing a 347 stroker. Scat rotating assembly; AFR 185 heads; Comp cam
 

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