Engine help

[Hicks]

Hey we got the crank and 2 cylinders in and we were checking to make sure it still rolled, and we the bolts on the rods are hitting the cylinder wall, or well only 1 bolt is, it's BEARLY hitting...

What are my options?
What couldof been a mistake???
Enyone??

306 *347 stroker kit*

 

[trav_19]

take it back out and look at it ...are you talking the wrist pins? :dunno:

 

[Hicks]

It's the bolt that holds the rod to the crank >.<

 

[trav_19]

ok so when you turn it and it come up to the block it makes contact... is that what your saying.... you probley need to cut reliefs in your block

 

[Hicks]

ok so when you turn it and it come up to the block it makes contact... is that what your saying.... you probley need to cut reliefs in your block

Whatcha mean? is it safe to cut a little itty bitty spot outof the cylinder wall? not even a quarter of an intch

eh >.<

So gay...

 

[trav_19]

i would ask a shop first but i believe thats how its down for clearance issues

 

[94yellowgt]

I think with a 347, you have to notch the block alittle bit. I would have a machine shop do it though.

 

[TRUUBLE]

Yeah . . lol. You gotta clearance the bottom of the cylinders. You use a grinder to do it. If you're not confident in doing it yourselef, have a shop do it.

 

[Hicks]

Yeah . . lol. You gotta clearance the bottom of the cylinders. You use a grinder to do it. If you're not confident in doing it yourselef, have a shop do it.

Cylinder wall you mean??

B/c we are all for that, if it's safe.
And trust me... we have the tools lol

 

[94yellowgt]

Yes he means the bottom of the cylinder walls. I think alot of stroker kits require notching so it has to be safe or everyone one wouldn't be doing it. I would however take as little as possible off especially if it is still the stock block because they are weak anyway.

 

[Hicks]

Yes he means the bottom of the cylinder walls. I think alot of stroker kits require notching so it has to be safe or everyone one wouldn't be doing it. I would however take as little as possible off especially if it is still the stock block because they are weak anyway.

5.0's arnt to bad lol

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

Just use a hammer and chisel to break off a piece off the bottom edge of the cylinder wall.


















































Just kidding please don't do that. Take it to a machine shop, if you are not sure.

 

[Hicks]

Just use a hammer and chisel to break off a piece off the bottom edge of the cylinder wall.



Just kidding please don't do that. Take it to a machine shop, if you are not sure.

Well, Eagle made the kit and when we called they fixed alot of our problems, but we still have clearance issues... but Bearly eny

and let me ask a question, after u get the pistons in, the moter should still be able to be turned, we got everything oiled down so it should slide around.
But it's awefull hard to turn yhr crank with just 2 pistons on...

>.<

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

Just use a hammer and chisel to break off a piece off the bottom edge of the cylinder wall.



Just kidding please don't do that. Take it to a machine shop, if you are not sure.

Well, Eagle made the kit and when we called they fixed alot of our problems, but we still have clearance issues... but Bearly eny

and let me ask a question, after u get the pistons in, the moter should still be able to be turned, we got everything oiled down so it should slide around.
But it's awefull hard to turn yhr crank with just 2 pistons on...

>.<

Did you plastgage your main and rod bearings? You might be a little tight. Plastigage only costs a couple bucks, and is well worth the piece of mind it gives you. It could mean the differance between purring like a kitten and going BOOM!

I plastigage every engine I have ever done, be it in chasis, out of chasis, or just rods and mains.