Engine questions

[Inspector13]

I'm more or less used to chevy's and carbs but I'll be starting a bit of a project on my Mustang pretty shortly here and I want to get a plan before I get started. I plan on pulling the motor and rebuilding it. I was thinking about poking and stroking it. I was thinking about doing either a 331 or 347 w/ about 10-11:1 compression, a Camshaft Innovations custom ground cam, ported TFS Twisted Wedge heads, and a TFS R-series intake manifold all running a 75mm TB, L/T's, 3 inch Mac Pro-Chamber H-pipe, and a 3 inch Mac Pro-Dumps cat back, and my 100 wet shot (probably step up to a 150 shot though if it hooks). Now my questions. 1.) Would 36 lb/hr injectors be too small for a 347 or 331?? I heard with a 347 that when you clearance the block to make it work it compromises the stock blocks strength. 2.) Is that true?? I've heard a lot about the Anderson Ford Motorsports Power Pipe. 3.) Is the half an inch larger diameter really worth it on a N/A sbf or would a quality CAI like a BBK one work just as well???


Thanks.


BTW I'm not gonna ask how much power this combo will make as I'll figure it out when it gets dyno tuned. lol

 

[wannaboost94gt]

That is one bad setup, I'd guess 450+ to the wheels even though you didn't ask. :thumbsup:

 

[ivan12]

To answer question 1, the weakest part of our engines is the stock block, therefore once stroked and having more strain it is more likely to fail. Not saying that it hasn't been done, but I have heard many people say they shouldve started with another block i.e. Boss, Dart, etc.

 

[wannaboost94gt]

The aftermarket blocks usually go for 1500-2000 for just the block then you have to machine it... I do wish I could've swung it but thats alot of money, I'll get one one day... I will say that as long as your tune is good the stock block can handle 500rwhp all day. Depends on what your goals are really.

 

[Venom351R]

1.) Would 36 lb/hr injectors be too small for a 347 or 331?? I've heard a lot about the Anderson Ford Motorsports Power Pipe. 3.) Is the half an inch larger diameter really worth it on a N/A sbf or would a quality CAI like a BBK one work just as well???
Thanks.

1. I run #36's on my 351 BUT with Nitrous you will prob need more injector. I dont know anything about what size shot will require what size injectors to support it, that's not my area. What I do know is N/A you should be fine. Im at 55% duty cycle on mine at my power level.

2. Get the anderson power pipe. But for a comparo I will be going to the dyno this coming monday for a retune with my Fox TB set up and anderson 4" power pipe VS my previous 3" C&L Pipe and SN95 TB set up

 

[Inspector13]

To answer question 1, the weakest part of our engines is the stock block, therefore once stroked and having more strain it is more likely to fail. Not saying that it hasn't been done, but I have heard many people say they shouldve started with another block i.e. Boss, Dart, etc.

Okay thanks.

1.) Would 36 lb/hr injectors be too small for a 347 or 331?? I've heard a lot about the Anderson Ford Motorsports Power Pipe. 3.) Is the half an inch larger diameter really worth it on a N/A sbf or would a quality CAI like a BBK one work just as well???
Thanks.

1. I run #36's on my 351 BUT with Nitrous you will prob need more injector. I dont know anything about what size shot will require what size injectors to support it, that's not my area. What I do know is N/A you should be fine. Im at 55% duty cycle on mine at my power level.

2. Get the anderson power pipe. But for a comparo I will be going to the dyno this coming monday for a retune with my Fox TB set up and anderson 4" power pipe VS my previous 3" C&L Pipe and SN95 TB set up

I run a wet kit so the extra fuel needed gets added right with the nitrous, not with the injectors. I just wanted to make sure that the injectors wouldn't be over worked with the motor. Yeah let me know how the dyno goes. I'd like to see that.

 

[NXcoupe]

Even with a dry kit you really don't need more injector. I will see if I can help you out a little here. I am not a fan of 'fad' cams and 'gurus' so your cam choice has no meaning to me. Without specs you don't know what you are getting. Anyway, off the soapbox, question 1) 36 lb injectors are probably a little big, but your only choice would be 30's which would be too small. I say go with the 36's and just put up with the richness at idle. 2) No, not true, you are grinding on a solid cast iron area which isn't where they fail, they fail in the main web area and upwards through the oil passages into the cam journals. So no, they don't weaken the block. I made 600 rwhp with a stock block and a DSS girdle. Ran it for 2 years, sold the engine off to a guy who is making killer power for what it is. Runs great.
Your exhaust is overkill, no way you need 3" exhaust unless you just want it. My car runs 9's with 2.5" exhaust. Good choice tho with the prochamber, I use one too. The powerpipe is not comparable to a MAC or BBK cold air. They put an elbow right in front of the maf and the anderson uses an aftermarket meter and puts it and the filter into the fenderwell. Great way to do it. Get a ProM 80mm meter with filter cal'd for your injectors, and use the smaller anderson fenderwell powerpipe. the larger one is good for absolutely no hp. I tried it on my race car and just left the larger one on there because I am compensating.
Hope this helps.

 

[LAFENATU]

Even with a dry kit you really don't need more injector. I will see if I can help you out a little here. I am not a fan of 'fad' cams and 'gurus' so your cam choice has no meaning to me. Without specs you don't know what you are getting. Anyway, off the soapbox, question 1) 36 lb injectors are probably a little big, but your only choice would be 30's which would be too small. I say go with the 36's and just put up with the richness at idle. 2) No, not true, you are grinding on a solid cast iron area which isn't where they fail, they fail in the main web area and upwards through the oil passages into the cam journals. So no, they don't weaken the block. I made 600 rwhp with a stock block and a DSS girdle. Ran it for 2 years, sold the engine off to a guy who is making killer power for what it is. Runs great.
Your exhaust is overkill, no way you need 3" exhaust unless you just want it. My car runs 9's with 2.5" exhaust. Good choice tho with the prochamber, I use one too. The powerpipe is not comparable to a MAC or BBK cold air. They put an elbow right in front of the maf and the anderson uses an aftermarket meter and puts it and the filter into the fenderwell. Great way to do it. Get a ProM 80mm meter with filter cal'd for your injectors, and use the smaller anderson fenderwell powerpipe. the larger one is good for absolutely no hp. I tried it on my race car and just left the larger one on there because I am compensating.
Hope this helps.

Couldn't have said it better myself.

Except, I don't think you can still buy the 80mm. I think PMAS only sells a 75/92/ and 95mm Velocity meter now.

 

[Venom351R]

I wonder why they go from a 75 to a 92 then only a short jump to a 95? I have the 95 but I think it would make more sense to have a 75, 85,95

 

[LAFENATU]

I wonder why they go from a 75 to a 92 then only a short jump to a 95? I have the 95 but I think it would make more sense to have a 75, 85,95

I have no clue...that's a good question. :dontknow:

 

[NXcoupe]

Even with a dry kit you really don't need more injector. I will see if I can help you out a little here. I am not a fan of 'fad' cams and 'gurus' so your cam choice has no meaning to me. Without specs you don't know what you are getting. Anyway, off the soapbox, question 1) 36 lb injectors are probably a little big, but your only choice would be 30's which would be too small. I say go with the 36's and just put up with the richness at idle. 2) No, not true, you are grinding on a solid cast iron area which isn't where they fail, they fail in the main web area and upwards through the oil passages into the cam journals. So no, they don't weaken the block. I made 600 rwhp with a stock block and a DSS girdle. Ran it for 2 years, sold the engine off to a guy who is making killer power for what it is. Runs great.
Your exhaust is overkill, no way you need 3" exhaust unless you just want it. My car runs 9's with 2.5" exhaust. Good choice tho with the prochamber, I use one too. The powerpipe is not comparable to a MAC or BBK cold air. They put an elbow right in front of the maf and the anderson uses an aftermarket meter and puts it and the filter into the fenderwell. Great way to do it. Get a ProM 80mm meter with filter cal'd for your injectors, and use the smaller anderson fenderwell powerpipe. the larger one is good for absolutely no hp. I tried it on my race car and just left the larger one on there because I am compensating.
Hope this helps.

Couldn't have said it better myself.

Except, I don't think you can still buy the 80mm. I think PMAS only sells a 75/92/ and 95mm Velocity meter now.

Thanks man, how ya been?
Anyway, you are correct PMAS does not make an 80mm but ProM does and always will. They work a lot better with the anderson pipe for some reason as well. just an fyi.

 

[LAFENATU]

Thanks man, how ya been? Anyway, you are correct PMAS does not make an 80mm but ProM does and always will. They work a lot better with the anderson pipe for some reason as well. just an fyi.

Same as always dude..just another hard day on the farm ccasion14:

 

[Inspector13]

Even with a dry kit you really don't need more injector. I will see if I can help you out a little here. I am not a fan of 'fad' cams and 'gurus' so your cam choice has no meaning to me. Without specs you don't know what you are getting. Anyway, off the soapbox, question 1) 36 lb injectors are probably a little big, but your only choice would be 30's which would be too small. I say go with the 36's and just put up with the richness at idle. 2) No, not true, you are grinding on a solid cast iron area which isn't where they fail, they fail in the main web area and upwards through the oil passages into the cam journals. So no, they don't weaken the block. I made 600 rwhp with a stock block and a DSS girdle. Ran it for 2 years, sold the engine off to a guy who is making killer power for what it is. Runs great.
Your exhaust is overkill, no way you need 3" exhaust unless you just want it. My car runs 9's with 2.5" exhaust. Good choice tho with the prochamber, I use one too. The powerpipe is not comparable to a MAC or BBK cold air. They put an elbow right in front of the maf and the anderson uses an aftermarket meter and puts it and the filter into the fenderwell. Great way to do it. Get a ProM 80mm meter with filter cal'd for your injectors, and use the smaller anderson fenderwell powerpipe. the larger one is good for absolutely no hp. I tried it on my race car and just left the larger one on there because I am compensating.
Hope this helps.

Wow helped a lot thanks. I don't have cam specs as I wanna get all the information about everything else on the motor and car figured before going to Jay and talking to him about what he'd recommend for specs of the cam for my combo/car. I've talked to him before about some of the information that I'd need and talked to a few people who had him grind a cam for them and have been impressed with the knowledge that he seems to have and everyone was quite satisfied with what they got. My current exhaust is FRPP shorty headers, 2.5 inch Pro-Chamber O/R H-pipe, and a 2.5 inch Mac car-back w/ 3 inch tips. For the '94/'95 they only have the 4 inch Power Pipe for the N/A applications.

 

[NXcoupe]

Well, keep your current exhaust, because I am going 9's with it, just loose the tailpipes, that's a .10 right there. Go with the powerpipe then, 4" is still better than the alternatives out there. Check into JLT as well. I am not a fan or either of the cam 'gurus' that are out there. I do custom grind cams as well. they don't 'grind' anything, they go through a cam manufacturers grind book and choose the lobes they think will work well with certain combos, same thing I do. they use some place out in California. I use mostly one company because they have cnc profiles and really good ramp rates. Dont' be fooled by all the mumbo jumbo, remember the wizard scene in wizard of oz. Lot's of smoke and mirrors. A good product, but a product that a lot of folks are capable of that are friendly and get you your cam quickly in a matter of weeks or days rather than months.

 

[LAFENATU]

they don't 'grind' anything, they go through a cam manufacturers grind book and choose the lobes they think will work well with certain combos, same thing I do. they use some place out in California.

CompCams is usually who provides the camshaft.

 

[Venom351R]

Anyway, you are correct PMAS does not make an 80mm but ProM does and always will. They work a lot better with the anderson pipe for some reason as well. just an fyi.

Im using the anderson 4" power pipe with my 95MM PMAS, seems to be a good comob

 

[NXcoupe]

Anyway, you are correct PMAS does not make an 80mm but ProM does and always will. They work a lot better with the anderson pipe for some reason as well. just an fyi.

You can thank me for calling up Brian and bitching him out about them sending a reducer coupling when all that was available was a 95 from PMAS. They made the change shortly afterwards, probably after a bunch of other dealers followed suit. lol. Yes, they do work well, and are a good part. I have one for my street car too. Just saying that it's not really necessary for what this guy is building, that's all.

Im using the anderson 4" power pipe with my 95MM PMAS, seems to be a good comob

 

[Inspector13]

Well, keep your current exhaust, because I am going 9's with it, just loose the tailpipes, that's a .10 right there. Go with the powerpipe then, 4" is still better than the alternatives out there. Check into JLT as well. I am not a fan or either of the cam 'gurus' that are out there. I do custom grind cams as well. they don't 'grind' anything, they go through a cam manufacturers grind book and choose the lobes they think will work well with certain combos, same thing I do. they use some place out in California. I use mostly one company because they have cnc profiles and really good ramp rates. Dont' be fooled by all the mumbo jumbo, remember the wizard scene in wizard of oz. Lot's of smoke and mirrors. A good product, but a product that a lot of folks are capable of that are friendly and get you your cam quickly in a matter of weeks or days rather than months.

Shameless plug. Possibly. :tongue3: I'll keep my eyes open on the stuff you mentioned and am starting to compile a "shopping list". I can't wait to start buying parts :headbang: Getting rid of a car loan and a gym membership what great. I may get fat but at least I have more money to spend on my car now.

 

[NXcoupe]

Nah, wasn't plugging myself, don't do that. I guess it could be construed as that, but I was merely using that fact to support my point I was trying to make. You could sit down with a cam manufacturers book, look through their lobe profiles and have your own custom cam made. These guys act like they tell the cam manufacturer how to design their lobes, they don't. They use a catalog and spout enough technical terms to baffle people. Seen it a lot over the years I have been surfin the net.

 

[Inspector13]

I know that isn't what you were intending on doing, but I was just being a smartass and giving you some shit. But either way thanks for the help guys.