ttocs
Post Whore
that is the +12v switched ignition feed into the switch. If it were to draw too much current it would just pop a fuse.
Those issues wouldn’t be caused by the ignition switch or cylinder. How do you know the wiring is bad? If by staying on you mean with the switch in the off position, that’s the headlight switch.
As for your misfire, it has nothing to do with the ignition switch or headlight switch. Did you do a compression test? Did you swap out the distributor with a stock one to rule that out?
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The pigtail for the switch is wired properly.it sounds like something was not right on the wiring for the new harness since the lights starting staying on after. Replacing any other parts will probably not fix it. I would go and triple check your wiring before I throw any more parts at it.
Did I read it wrong or did you have this problem before the new harness?The pigtail for the switch is wired properly.
The harness was burned up. I replaced it, triple checked the wiring against the original pigtail (the wires are color coded it’s impossible to get it wrong). I tested it using two different switches. It’s not the pigtail or the switch. I am assuming what ever caused that wire to get hot in the first place down stream from the pigtail also burned up on the other end and is shorting the circuit. I haven’t taken the lower dash and column apart to find it yet.
I am sure the pigtail is wired correctly, its been triple checked and soldered two different times to ensure its correct. I tried two different switches both are doing the same thing. I am going to chase the wires down the column and under the dash to see if there is a short somewhere else further down. If there are no other shorts, then I will try a third plug. Wouldn't a bad ignition switch be sending 12v to the headlight switch when the ignition is off?The ignition switch has nothing to do with the lights. If you disconnect the switch do the lights go out? I’m still thinking that issue is the switch itself.
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Ya the instrument cluster is out, ignition switch and headlight switch are out, I also pulled fuses 5, 8, 13. So there should be no power to interior lights or parking lights at all, and am still getting power. Only place I can think of is the trunk lamp, third brake light, license plate light all meeting in the trunk only other place where I see the green/yellow and brown wires meeting in close proximity. The hot wire green/yellow fuse 8 and lt blue/red fuse 13 basically touch at the fuse box but I see no signs of damage there.well if the lights stay on all the time with the switch disconnected then its either the harness(I know I know its not the harness) or as you suspect something downstream that is shorted. The brown wire is for the exterior parking lights and that circuit might also feed the dash lights
Did you remove the gauges? If so then take them back out, disconnect the harness to it and then look inside the connections and make sure the copper traces have not lifted and are shorting.