Few Problems I need help with.

[MustangChris]

Ok so I just started driving my car around lately, Gettin used to it and stuff, and since I am still on the permit phase Im riding with my mom. Of course since she is my mom, Every little thing makes her nervous, its kinda annoying. Shes so used to her BMW 745 and riding in something you can feel is somethin she aint used to yet its been a while.


Anyway, riding around We have noticed, a few things that need attention asap. THE BRAKES SUCK AND PULSE LIKE f**k. Im getting a whirring noise from the rear end, and the car shakes like f**k. I wanna say it has a cam, cause it lopes a good bit, and its smelly. It could be the harmonic balancer, but IONO. I've been in other Sn's but none of them had mods (except a 03 mach but thats a totally different beast) and none of them drive like mine. I've done most of the Maintenance stuff and everything.

Please help

"THE BRAKES SUCK AND PULSE LIKE f**k"
take your rotors to the shop, new ones may be needed. replace your brake pads

"Im getting a whirring noise from the rear end"
Replace your differncial fluid. Step #1, jack up the rear end and spin 1 wheel. If the other wheel spins THE SAME direction, someone installed a true-limited-slip in your car. You need Ford Racing Performance Parts' Limited Slip Fluid ($5.00 a bottle, use the entire bottle in your new fluid.)

If that doesnt help, replace your transmission fluid (use automatic transmission fluid that meats or exceeds OEM specs.)

If that doesnt help, take your car up to a higher speed (with your mom in the car for safety.) Or have a parent take it to a higher speed (i think thats a better idea.) 70MPH+ if you feel vibrations in your floorboards or seats, in a rythmatic pulse, take your car to a shop and have them balance your driveshaft, also have them replace your U-joints ($50.00 for Lakewood Ujoints off Jegs.com)

"and the car shakes like f**k"
when? when you stop? slow down? speed up? cruise? speed up REALLY fast? ??? check your motor mounts, your tranny mount, and replace your u-joints..... also, take your car in and have the wheels mounted, balanced, and rotated.

"I wanna say it has a cam, cause it lopes a good bit, and its smelly"
Replace your o2 sensors, clean your IAT sensor, clean your MAF, clean your airfilter (or replace it,) im not a 5.0 expert, so maybe someone else has a better suggestion. With the shaking car, and this problem as well, it may also be a fuel pressure regulator. Check your spark plugs as well.

"It could be the harmonic balancer, but IONO"
well, take the harmonic balancer off and inspect it. its common for them to go bad... Mine sounded like a "washing machine" at idle when it started failing.

"I've done most of the Maintenance stuff and everything."
Tell us what you have done so we can rule things out....



-Chris

 

[MustangChris]

Yah it makes perfect sence. Your 02 sensors are saying your running lean, so to keep it safe your computer will kick in to open loop mode, which is a safety mode which basically makes your engine run very rich. Yes, i would swap in new o2 sensors and go forward from there.

Good call Pete. I 100% agree. Bad o2s cause your car to run rich. Rich = smelly, which you also mentioned. A clean MAF and a clean IAT Sensor will also help keep the fuel ratio in the green.

clean your intake system, replace your o2s, unplug the battery (and clean the terminals, if needed,) and get back to us...

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

Where is the IAT located?

"THE BRAKES SUCK AND PULSE LIKE f**k"
take your rotors to the shop, new ones may be needed. replace your brake pads

"Im getting a whirring noise from the rear end"
Replace your differncial fluid. Step #1, jack up the rear end and spin 1 wheel. If the other wheel spins THE SAME direction, someone installed a true-limited-slip in your car. You need Ford Racing Performance Parts' Limited Slip Fluid ($5.00 a bottle, use the entire bottle in your new fluid.)

If that doesnt help, replace your transmission fluid (use automatic transmission fluid that meats or exceeds OEM specs.)

If that doesnt help, take your car up to a higher speed (with your mom in the car for safety.) Or have a parent take it to a higher speed (i think thats a better idea.) 70MPH+ if you feel vibrations in your floorboards or seats, in a rythmatic pulse, take your car to a shop and have them balance your driveshaft, also have them replace your U-joints ($50.00 for Lakewood Ujoints off Jegs.com)

"and the car shakes like f**k"
when? when you stop? slow down? speed up? cruise? speed up REALLY fast? ??? check your motor mounts, your tranny mount, and replace your u-joints..... also, take your car in and have the wheels mounted, balanced, and rotated.

"I wanna say it has a cam, cause it lopes a good bit, and its smelly"
Replace your o2 sensors, clean your IAT sensor, clean your MAF, clean your airfilter (or replace it,) im not a 5.0 expert, so maybe someone else has a better suggestion. With the shaking car, and this problem as well, it may also be a fuel pressure regulator. Check your spark plugs as well.

"It could be the harmonic balancer, but IONO"
well, take the harmonic balancer off and inspect it. its common for them to go bad... Mine sounded like a "washing machine" at idle when it started failing.

"I've done most of the Maintenance stuff and everything."
Tell us what you have done so we can rule things out....



-Chris

I am going to take the car into my school shop on friday, and do the brakes then. Atleast resurface them, and slap some pads.

I must have a true limited slip. I almost got the royal purple diff fluid today but they only had one quart, so I passed. Where do I get the frpp stuff?

I havent replaced tranny fluid yet. I know its Mercon V ATF because I have changed it 3 times in class on other peoples cars.

The car shakes pretty good at idle, You can see mirrors,seats, engine shaking and all kinda shit.

I did most of the sensor cleaning you described except, IAT and replacing 02's. The spark plugs have maybe 100 miles on them. I didnt gap them though maybe I should do that.

And as for the maintenance I have done that I can remember refer to

is the "whirring" sound always consistent with certain speeds?

Yes, around 35- 65 the only speeds I've really been at constantly

also it sounds like you need pads and rotors, and you probably have a vacuum leak, bad 02 censors, or a crappy iac. what does ur car smell like? rotten eggs, or horrible gas fumes?

Yeah it smells like gas fumes, and I just cleaned my IAC 3 days ago..

if your car is running that bad it is probably throwing up the check engine light, get it read and taken care of.
you should really give your car a once over and inspect everything, or have it checked out, and probably give it a FULL tune up before you start driving it all the time. also diff fluid is easy to change, just make sure before you put the new diff cover gasket on that both mating surfaces are very clean. and be sure to put the correct diff fluid, and friction modifier in. while the cover is off, inspect for metal shavings. the whirring sound your experiencing could very well be just typical gear whine, which is not something to be afraid of, its annoying yes but nothing that will cause copious amounts of damage in your rear end.

It gives me a constant abs light, and I got a check engine light for about 10 seconds after I basically lugged the car. Started in second on accident. Its also got a airbag light too.
What would you consider a full tune up? I changed plugs, wires, coil, oil, fuel filter, cleaned MAF a while back might need to be redone,cleaned Iac, changed filter

 

[Mean98GT]

Any unmetered air entering the engine will throw a lean code. Meaning any air getting into it after the MAF will throw codes. Check from vacuum leaks if you've already cleaned the sensors. My car was throwing lean codes when I got it because of a aftermarket MAF. There are a lot of things that can throw lean codes. Get a list of possible problems for the lean codes and start with the most common issues and work your way down. Good luck!

 

[MustangChris]

Where is the IAT located?

"THE BRAKES SUCK AND PULSE LIKE f**k"
take your rotors to the shop, new ones may be needed. replace your brake pads

"Im getting a whirring noise from the rear end"
Replace your differncial fluid. Step #1, jack up the rear end and spin 1 wheel. If the other wheel spins THE SAME direction, someone installed a true-limited-slip in your car. You need Ford Racing Performance Parts' Limited Slip Fluid ($5.00 a bottle, use the entire bottle in your new fluid.)

If that doesnt help, replace your transmission fluid (use automatic transmission fluid that meats or exceeds OEM specs.)

If that doesnt help, take your car up to a higher speed (with your mom in the car for safety.) Or have a parent take it to a higher speed (i think thats a better idea.) 70MPH+ if you feel vibrations in your floorboards or seats, in a rythmatic pulse, take your car to a shop and have them balance your driveshaft, also have them replace your U-joints ($50.00 for Lakewood Ujoints off Jegs.com)

"and the car shakes like f**k"
when? when you stop? slow down? speed up? cruise? speed up REALLY fast? ??? check your motor mounts, your tranny mount, and replace your u-joints..... also, take your car in and have the wheels mounted, balanced, and rotated.

"I wanna say it has a cam, cause it lopes a good bit, and its smelly"
Replace your o2 sensors, clean your IAT sensor, clean your MAF, clean your airfilter (or replace it,) im not a 5.0 expert, so maybe someone else has a better suggestion. With the shaking car, and this problem as well, it may also be a fuel pressure regulator. Check your spark plugs as well.

"It could be the harmonic balancer, but IONO"
well, take the harmonic balancer off and inspect it. its common for them to go bad... Mine sounded like a "washing machine" at idle when it started failing.

"I've done most of the Maintenance stuff and everything."
Tell us what you have done so we can rule things out....



-Chris

I am going to take the car into my school shop on friday, and do the brakes then. Atleast resurface them, and slap some pads.

I must have a true limited slip. I almost got the royal purple diff fluid today but they only had one quart, so I passed. Where do I get the frpp stuff?

I havent replaced tranny fluid yet. I know its Mercon V ATF because I have changed it 3 times in class on other peoples cars.

The car shakes pretty good at idle, You can see mirrors,seats, engine shaking and all kinda ****.

I did most of the sensor cleaning you described except, IAT and replacing 02's. The spark plugs have maybe 100 miles on them. I didnt gap them though maybe I should do that.

And as for the maintenance I have done that I can remember refer to

is the "whirring" sound always consistent with certain speeds?

Yes, around 35- 65 the only speeds I've really been at constantly

also it sounds like you need pads and rotors, and you probably have a vacuum leak, bad 02 censors, or a crappy iac. what does ur car smell like? rotten eggs, or horrible gas fumes?

Yeah it smells like gas fumes, and I just cleaned my IAC 3 days ago..

if your car is running that bad it is probably throwing up the check engine light, get it read and taken care of.
you should really give your car a once over and inspect everything, or have it checked out, and probably give it a FULL tune up before you start driving it all the time. also diff fluid is easy to change, just make sure before you put the new diff cover gasket on that both mating surfaces are very clean. and be sure to put the correct diff fluid, and friction modifier in. while the cover is off, inspect for metal shavings. the whirring sound your experiencing could very well be just typical gear whine, which is not something to be afraid of, its annoying yes but nothing that will cause copious amounts of damage in your rear end.

It gives me a constant abs light, and I got a check engine light for about 10 seconds after I basically lugged the car. Started in second on accident. Its also got a airbag light too.
What would you consider a full tune up? I changed plugs, wires, coil, oil, fuel filter, cleaned MAF a while back might need to be redone,cleaned Iac, changed filter

"I am going to take the car into my school shop on friday, and do the brakes then. Atleast resurface them, and slap some pads. That should fix your problem. but dont go too thin on your rotars, or they will just warp again and then they are a MAJOR safety problem. I'm sure your school has a tech that knows what they are doing and what final specs should be (i dont know what final specs should be.... lol)

"I must have a true limited slip. I almost got the royal purple diff fluid today but they only had one quart, so I passed. Where do I get the frpp stuff?"
the only way to tell is if you jack up the rear and spin a tire. if one goes forward, and the other backwards, you have traction-lock (stock from ford and standard equipment on GT/Cobra mustangs) if you have t-lok, you do not need the fluid. if both wheels go the same direction, you have limited slip, and you do need the FRPP fluid.

Royal Purple is all that I use in my drivetrain. I HIGHLY suggest it for your diffy and tranny. you can obtain the FRPP fluid from any ford dealer, you can get the part number of www.fordracingparts.comhttp://



I havent replaced tranny fluid yet. I know its Mercon V ATF because I have changed it 3 times in class on other peoples cars.

The car shakes pretty good at idle, You can see mirrors,seats, engine shaking and all kinda ****.

I did most of the sensor cleaning you described except, IAT and replacing 02's. The spark plugs have maybe 100 miles on them. I didnt gap them though maybe I should do that.

"I havent replaced tranny fluid yet. I know its Mercon V ATF because I have changed it 3 times in class on other peoples cars."
Yea, I just use Royal Purple ATF fluid.

"The car shakes pretty good at idle, You can see mirrors,seats, engine shaking and all kinda ****."
if you have a friend with the same year mustang, swap MAF sensors. also, it could be a vacuum leak (maybe??)

"I did most of the sensor cleaning you described except, IAT and replacing 02's. The spark plugs have maybe 100 miles on them. I didnt gap them though maybe I should do that. "
the IAT sensor is the small sensor in the intake pipe right behind the MAF sensor. Just use CNC MAss Air Flow Cleaner on it, that will do fine. Also, I think if you replace the o2s, it would really help. And finally, check your plugs. Now that they have a few miles on them, you can see if there are any major problems going on in the combustion chamber, detonation, rich, lean, carbon build up, etc.

 

[Win]

i was going to respond to this but i saw ^^^^^^^^^^ and it just made me go ummm some of these things need to be deleted and simplified

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

1. In my class we are the technicians, we go get the book and we surface them ourselves.
2. I spun the wheel about 3 days ago when I replaced the fuel filter and they both go the same way. YAY. So do I need one quart of royal purp, and one quart of the frpp stuff? Or how does it go?
3. Can I just use electrical cleaner to clean the IAT?, cause i bought a whole can of it last week, and never used it.
4. ANd to check for VAC Leaks, i read you just spray the lines with carb cleaner? If I hear a fat ass sucking noise right when I turn the car off is that a Vac leak or normal?

 

[MustangChris]

1. In my class we are the technicians, we go get the book and we surface them ourselves.
2. I spun the wheel about 3 days ago when I replaced the fuel filter and they both go the same way. YAY. So do I need one quart of royal purp, and one quart of the frpp stuff? Or how does it go?
3. Can I just use electrical cleaner to clean the IAT?, cause i bought a whole can of it last week, and never used it.
4. ANd to check for VAC Leaks, i read you just spray the lines with carb cleaner? If I hear a fat *** sucking noise right when I turn the car off is that a Vac leak or normal?

"1. In my class we are the technicians, we go get the book and we surface them ourselves."
Sounds good. do mine next. LOL!

"2. I spun the wheel about 3 days ago when I replaced the fuel filter and they both go the same way. YAY. So do I need one quart of royal purp, and one quart of the frpp stuff? Or how does it go?"
you need 2 to 3 quarts of diffy fluid, and 1 bottle of FRPP. add half of the first quart of the diffy fluid to the plug on the FRONT of the axle housing, then add the FRPP stuff (something like a 2 oz. bottle. its tiny) then add the rest of bottle 1, add bottle two, and start adding bottle 3 untill it spurts out of the fill hole.

Suggestion From MustangChris:
Go to the autoparts store and buy 10 feet of rubber tubing. Put one end in the diffy, 1 end on the bottle, and squeeeeeeze! This is easiest with 2 people. 1 can watch the hose in the diffy to make sure it doesnt slide out, and to yell at you when it start spurting out. 1 can hold the hose onto the bottle and squeeze the bottle. Feel free to puncure the bottom of bottle #1 to make the fluid flow faster.

"3. Can I just use electrical cleaner to clean the IAT?, cause i bought a whole can of it last week, and never used it."
maybe, i would suggest using the MAF cleaner. Ive never personally used electrical cleaner... if worse comes to worse a new IAT is $15.00 from autozone or $30.00 from FoMoCo.

"4. ANd to check for VAC Leaks, i read you just spray the lines with carb cleaner? If I hear a fat *** sucking noise right when I turn the car off is that a Vac leak or normal?"

Ive never checked for vacuum leaks.... one trick ive heard is to get a can of the torch-gas that you use for the hand-held torches... and let your car idle... then use the bottle of fluid and just hold the gas around different parts of the engine bay. The gas in the can is more flamible than gasoline, so when you get close to the vacuum leak, the motor will suck in the gas and the idle will change....

*HONESTLY I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS!!! SO PLEASE SOMEONE ELSE FEEL FREE TO CHIME IN WITH A MORE HELPFUL SUGGESTION!*

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

Well When I cleaned the IAT I just used, a cotton swap and some alcohol, seems to work pretty well. One side of the sensor was black and the other was pink, so I just wiped down the black side, till it was pink again. Just like how I did the MAF before.

btw THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS.

 

[MustangChris]

Well When I cleaned the IAT I just used, a cotton swap and some alcohol, seems to work pretty well. One side of the sensor was black and the other was pink, so I just wiped down the black side, till it was pink again. Just like how I did the MAF before.

btw THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS.

sounds like it did the trick.

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

Yeah so im thinkin maybe motor mounts and a tranny mount will fix my shakin, Although Im still tryin to figure out why I am still gettin 172 and 136 codes after cleaning the IAT. I guess 02's are next.

 

[MustangChris]

Yeah so im thinkin maybe motor mounts and a tranny mount will fix my shakin, Although Im still tryin to figure out why I am still gettin 172 and 136 codes after cleaning the IAT. I guess 02's are next.

the IAT wouldnt have cleared the codes, it would have just aided the computer in delivering the proper amount of fuel.
a bad IAT, i dont think, could ever cause enough problems to throw a rich/lean code.
i just wanted you to clean it as a precausionary effort to help rule things out. Now we know your car is getting as accurate of readings as possible from your intake system.
next are your o2s, which i feel are the problem. then we know your computer is getting accurate readings from intake, and exhaust, so then we will move onto the next options to try and track this down.

 

[CC'S95GT]

did you ever ck to see if the HB was wobbling?

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

The HB looks fine its not making any noises either.
Now I need to find out where to get some 02's for cheap.

 

[MustangChris]

The HB looks fine its not making any noises either.
Now I need to find out where to get some 02's for cheap.

People tend to claim that FoMoCo's are the best on the market. I am personally using Denzos, and i havent had any problems. Check out Jegs and Summit.... if you want top-dollar I suggest FoMoCo.

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

Oh cool. Ima check out jegs, summit and kragen.

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

Yeah the stealership wants a 100 a piece......fuck that.

Im gonna get the ones from american muscle. 50 a pop.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ntk-o2-sensor-22500.html

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

Ok so I got it in the shop, I've got almost nothing on the rear pads, Im gonna turn the rotors and put new pads next week. I didnt have enough time today after I finished my job. But I did change the tranny fluid, It wasnt bad as I thought it would be, came out red and everything.

 

[MustangChris]

nice. tranny fluid: take off shifter, take out drain plug. drain fluid. replace drain plug. fill fluid. lol.

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

Oh i always put it in from underneath. Since we have lifts n stuff, I dont mess with the shifter.