Throw Out Bearing gave out, Need help with parts.

[Terrorist 5.0]

I've had @cobrajeff96 offer a new one they had laying around. I don't think it's a bad idea to swap it out given it's age. So I'll definitely consider it.

What causes the chatter at idle? Is that something that's adjustable or just the nature of how the parts sit?

If you do change the clutch cable I highly suggest heat wrapping it. I used to get some clicking and roughness after a pull before I heat wrapped mine. Heat wrapped eliminated that completely. Looks a little funny at first under the hood but you get used to it. If your cable is working good right now though I would just leave it.

 

[Sn95.Draconis-Kev]

I got a question, i just read that you can tell apart 8 vs 6 bolt fly wheel engines by the engine type: Romeo or Windsor. Quoting 'americanmuscle' their site here: "If the 8th character in the VIN is an "X" its a Windsor block, if the 8th character in the VIN is a "W" it is a Romeo block."
Well. Mine has an X as the 8th character. So my engine is a Windsor block. Which should mean it's has an 8 bolt flywheel correct? Are there other ways to identify it rather easily?
This is quite crucial as i almost bought a 6 bolt flywheel lol.

 

[Sn95.Draconis-Kev]

Do any of you know more about this? @Daryl @cobrajeff96 @Terrorist 5.0


P.s: I hope you all had a good weekend.

 

[Terrorist 5.0]

Do any of you know more about this? @Daryl @cobrajeff96 @Terrorist 5.0


P.s: I hope you all had a good weekend.

Sorry man, I have a 5.0, not really educated on the 4.6. And yes, I did have a good weekend

 

[cobrajeff96]

Only thing I know for sure is that my 96 Teskid 4v block was manufactured at the Romeo Michigan plant, and it of course has an 8-bolt crank. So.....

 

[Sn95.Draconis-Kev]

Well i thought i had everything and was looking at some videos to make sure. Turns out i'll likely need an Rear Main Seal Retainer ring if the old one get's damaged on removal.

This is from ChrisFix his video. It's also known as an Oil slinger. But i can't find one being sold anywhere? I see loads of shops selling the rear main seal (which i have right here on my desk) but not the Rear Main Seal Retainer. Help!

 

[cobrajeff96]

That thing is supposed to be pretty rigid though, eh? Best practice is to replace it with brand new of course, but if you have to re-use it just make sure you are spraying the shit outta that crank face with lots of WD-40. And keep spraying it as you slowly pull off the rear plate perfectly straight backward.

 

[ttocs]

god that would make me cuss at least one or two times. It sucks bad enough when it is an easy job to do that takes a left like this and suddenly is harder, but it sucks 2x as bad when it is a someone involved repair that becomes an even more involved job.

 

[Sn95.Draconis-Kev]

That thing is supposed to be pretty rigid though, eh? Best practice is to replace it with brand new of course, but if you have to re-use it just make sure you are spraying the shit outta that crank face with lots of WD-40. And keep spraying it as you slowly pull off the rear plate perfectly straight backward.

Yeah i'll give that a shot. i hope it won't break while i dig around more for the part in the meantime. I can find it with the entire aluminium casing around it but that's such an overkill.

 

[cobrajeff96]

If need be, I have a brand new RMS in my basement.

 

[Sn95.Draconis-Kev]

If need be, I have a brand new RMS in my basement.

The rear main seal isn't the issue. The rear main seal retainer is. It sits infront of the seal.
I have 2 RMS

 

[Sn95.Draconis-Kev]

But yeah, if anyone can point me in a direction of a shop that has a Rear Main Seal Retainer (the rubber/plastic ring that sits infront of the rear main seal) i would greatly appreciate it.

I found a store that sells the oil slinger ring separately. A fellow club member found the part number i needed and i looked it up, instantly found a company in the US that sells them and ships to Europe! I'm saved

 

[cobrajeff96]

 

[Sn95.Draconis-Kev]

View attachment 46935

The parts have arrived. Thank you for your help and for packing it really well

Now I need to wait for the clutch and flywheel to arrive and I can get started.

 

[cobrajeff96]

Right on.

You have any high temp grease? You're going to need some.

 

[Sn95.Draconis-Kev]

Right on.

You have any high temp grease? You're going to need some.

I have high temp ceramic grease but that's probably not suited for this?

 

[cobrajeff96]

Eh, not sure. Ideally what you want is high temp wheel bearing grease, the red (or sometimes black) high tack sticky stuff with a drop point of at least 350*F or higher. You have to apply it to a few different things inside the bellhousing.

Light film on the face of the TOB that contacts the pressure plate fingers.
Light film in the input shaft splines
Heavy film on the pivot ball stud and on the spring metal that hooks onto the pivot ball stud
Medium film on the back side of the TOB that slides into the fork
Heavy film on the outer end of the fork that accepts the cable end

 

[cobrajeff96]

I think the ceramic stuff is more suited for brake caliper slide pins as it tends to run a bit and not be really tacky like the wheel bearing grease.

 

[Sn95.Draconis-Kev]

Hmm, so i found a controversial topic. At least controversial to me. I watched a video where someone installed the flywheel on his SN95 and the used a little bit of grease underneath the head of the flywheel bolts to reduce friction when tightening it.
This very much defeats the purpose of having torque specification for anything. They are designed to be torqued to a certain specification under normal circumstances. By adding grease under the head of the bolt you reduce the friction with the surface you are bolting it to, meaning the torque specifications are off.

 

[cobrajeff96]

There's no need for that (the wet torque method). Just run them down to spec like normal. Blue loctite on FW bolts is always a good idea, same for pressure plate bolts.