Fuel Pump Going Out?

87hurricane · Jul 21, 2015

Yeah, you need to figure out what is missing when it shuts off on you. Your options are spark, fuel, or injector pulse. Once you have that narrowed down, it should be fairly easy to find the actual problem.

thearborbarber · Jul 26, 2015

I had an almost exact series of problems as you. My car never quit. The PIP was going out in the dizzy. I first though fuel pressure but a quick trip with a fuel pressure gauge tape to the windshield eliminated that. A new Rich Porter Dizzy from Orielly's fixed it.

96blak54 · Jul 27, 2015

All fords in that era had the same distributor setup. Ive had a crownvic (same problem) bronco II (same problem) and my 92tempo (same problem). I have yet to replace the tempo's distributor along wirh TFI module, but I know it will run like an ape when it does

HuskerGT · Aug 28, 2015

Follow up on this.
Since I was getting multiple possibilities for this problem I decided to take it to a local shop here that had a lot of experience with cars, but not Mustang Specialists.
They replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the distributor stator (also called a pip?) it now stayed running but they said was cutting out at 3500-3800 rpm under load. They then replaced the MAF sensor because it was running lean.
When I got it back the first time it stays running but is now cutting out hard at around 3800 and, since I'm running an OR X pipe, I could smell more exhaust than before bringing it in. This is a new problem as it wasn't happening prior to the symptoms listed in my original post. I bring it back and I had a plug wire too close to my header and it burnt though (my fault as I changed the plugs before bringing it in).
Long story short - same problem. I changed the plug wired to a set of MSD street fire shorter ones, the Ford Racing ones are too long anyway and need to be trimmed. Took it for a test drive last night an same thing except this time, it died on my in the driveway hen I got home. Started, but died again.

I'm going to have then tow it back to the shop since I payed a bunch of $$.

Any thoughts as to what it may be? Not sure if these guys know.

Thanks

CC'S95GT · Aug 28, 2015

Mine went through symptons similar to this (cutting out at hi RPM's).
My problem was the coil. Your Haynes has a procedure on how to test the resistance of the primary and secondary windings. Or just replace it, It's pretty cheap.

HuskerGT · Aug 28, 2015

I replaced the coil when I did the fuel filter & plugs, but forgot to mention that earlier. Waiting for the shop to call me back this morning.

Aviator Guy · Aug 29, 2015

Husker any news today on your issue?

HuskerGT · Aug 29, 2015

They came and got it today. I spoke with the tow truck driver who is also a mechanic there - who happens to have owned a 99 GT that he set up for race. Unfortunately, he isn't the mechanic assigned to my car. But he asked exactly what was going on and I explained everything that has happened form the start. He listened well and thought that, although the stator (pip) was replaced, it sounded like it might be the distributor, like others have suggested here.

He seamed like the only one that really listened to what I had to say and wanted to know the story. Nice guy.

I told him to throw his 2 cents in there, based on our conversation, when they get back to work on it next week and asked him to test drive it himself before calling it fixed. Before he drove off I shook his hand and said, "I don't want this back until it's done right, I'm depending on you, bro". LOL

Hopefully we get things straightened out... this time...

HuskerGT · Sep 7, 2015

Picked it up on Monday and it ran great. They said it fired up after sitting all weekend and ran great in the morning, afternoon and in the evening before I picked it up. Ran great in our test drive. I took it home but told them I'll test it in a couple days. Fired it up Thursday afternoon and back to the same stuff. According to them the fuel pump psi is within spec at 29 psi, where Ford says anywhere from 28-43 psi is good. Doesn't break up as hard if I creep up on 3800 rpm. If I accelerate harder it breaks up harder. Not sure what it could be now. Could it be the FP can't keep up?

Nuttinbutcrumbs · Sep 17, 2015

TFI module? If the motor is cold and you "get on it" does it still break up or does it do it only when the engine is hot? If it happens when hot it could be a bad TFI. Did you ever scan for codes? I don't think it's a fuel issue. When you turn the key on do you hear the pump prime? You know, that humming sound? How'd the shop determine it was lean? Did you say you replaced the O2 sensors already?

HuskerGT · Sep 17, 2015

It's an OB I system, so scanning is not much help. No check engine light or anything.
It breaks up when I take off for a run, so, yeah the engine is cold at that time. I can hear the pump prime and I usually let it finish before turning the key. The shop didn't find it to be lean. I have not replaced the O2 sensors, I am running an off-road X-pipe

Nuttinbutcrumbs · Sep 18, 2015

HuskerGT said:
It's an OB I system, so scanning is not much help. No check engine light or anything.
It breaks up when I take off for a run, so, yeah the engine is cold at that time. I can hear the pump prime and I usually let it finish before turning the key. The shop didn't find it to be lean. I have not replaced the O2 sensors, I am running an off-road X-pipe

Did you say they replaced the maf because they said it was lean? I realize it's obd1 but you can still check for codes and there might be codes present even with no light. Most of the codes on obd1 won't give a light. But anyway codes is where id start. You could either buy a $25 code reader or use a paper clip and count how many times the cel flashes. If yiu don't have an sct chip or the likes you should be able to pull codes. But yeah it gets frustrating when you get code 511 (all clear) and the car has issues. I'm battling some myself..
Incase ya don't know, here's a link on pulling codes via paperclip. However a obd1 reader is kinda handy.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
*Edit* your x pipe won't have any ill affect on the o2's if they are good since they're are located before where the cat would be.
one more edit. Bad O2's will cause to run lean.

HuskerGT · Sep 18, 2015

Thanks. They have scanned it. I bought an OBI scanner early on but it wouldn't stay running to use it...
They did replace the MAF, but it "smells" more like it's running rich. I notice stronger exhaust fumes when I do fire it.

Frustrating for sure. I felt good about when I went for a test drive with the tech the last time and it ran great, but, because they said they didn't have to do anything and it just fired and ran, I knew it still wasn't fixed.

Nuttinbutcrumbs · Sep 18, 2015

HuskerGT said:
Thanks. They have scanned it. I bought an OBI scanner early on but it wouldn't stay running to use it...
They did replace the MAF, but it "smells" more like it's running rich. I notice stronger exhaust fumes when I do fire it.

Frustrating for sure. I felt good about when I went for a test drive with the tech the last time and it ran great, but, because they said they didn't have to do anything and it just fired and ran, I knew it still wasn't fixed.

try and scan again. I'm kinda thinking o2's. Fwiw cars w out cats will always be a little smelly.
Edit. Does it idle well? Is it running any hotter than normal or getting hotter quicker than normal? If so the ect sensor could be bad, it plays a big role in the a/f ratio. If you're in the mood for throwing parts at it they're cheap and easy to replace. But try codes one more time.