Fuel cut off while driving

[ThatSNninety5]

put power on that bypass you made to the wire that goes down through the trunk, not the one that goes back towards the front of the car.

Im a bit confused by what you mean, could you elaborate a bit please?

 

[ttocs]

there are two wires that go to the inertia switch that you bypassed with that little loop. One is the input from the ccrm in the front of the car and the other goes out to the fuel pump in the back. When the switch trips it will not send voltage out to stop the pump from running but we are really just trying to be sure your pump still works. Follow the wire that comes up from the trunk floor into the inertia switch and apply power to it. It would be a good idea to put a fuse inline just in case it is locked up and draws too much current but what size will depend on what fuel pump you have. I would imagine 10-15 amps should be enough to prime but I have never tried it. If you get some female space connectors, standard automotive fuses will slide right in

 

[cobrajeff96]

15A is plenty for the stock pump.

Like I said, if you've already verified voltage is present on one of those wires in the connector when the key is turned on, that jumper you've made will apply it to the pump. You may be closer to the final answer than you think.

Otherwise, if anything is in question and you want to try the other thing you're talking about, you're better off removing the battery and bringing it to the trunk area to directly wire it to the pump. But yes, you may very well have to lower the tank because trying to disconnect the power connector to the pump (without breaking it) with such little hand room is going to aggravate the hell out of you. Probably don't do that.

Verify voltage is arriving at the inertia switch connector (either pin, it can only be one of them). If verified, use that jump you've made and if you don't hear the pump come on, it's a dead pump. There's only a tiny bit of uncertainty leftover to account for a potential break in the final segment of wiring from that connector harness and down to the pump itself----but I doubt it.

 

[ThatSNninety5]

15A is plenty for the stock pump.

Like I said, if you've already verified voltage is present on one of those wires in the connector when the key is turned on, that jumper you've made will apply it to the pump. You may be closer to the final answer than you think.

Otherwise, if anything is in question and you want to try the other thing you're talking about, you're better off removing the battery and bringing it to the trunk area to directly wire it to the pump. But yes, you may very well have to lower the tank because trying to disconnect the power connector to the pump (without breaking it) with such little hand room is going to aggravate the hell out of you. Probably don't do that.

Verify voltage is arriving at the inertia switch connector (either pin, it can only be one of them). If verified, use that jump you've made and if you don't hear the pump come on, it's a dead pump. There's only a tiny bit of uncertainty leftover to account for a potential break in the final segment of wiring from that connector harness and down to the pump itself----but I doubt it.

Im going to check voltage again with my a multimeter, like I said at the very start of this I was afraid I was doing it wrong, in the sense of my grounding point. So when I go to test for voltage again to these wires, the positive lead being in the end of one of the connecters, where is the best place to put my ground probe when I first did it I had it touching just the trunk floor but was getting iffy readings. I just dont want to mess this up. After testing for voltage I will then try putting power to the pump.

 

[ttocs]

the black and red honestly do not really matter. If you get them backwards it is going to show a -12v which of course is not possible in a 12v system, it just means it is reading it backwards. But yes I would look for an exposed screw or something for the ground, painted surfaces can resist it enough to show 0v but then just touch the red to the wires you want to test and it should show +12v.

 

[cobrajeff96]

The black ground lead of the MM needs clean metal with no paint or rust. In the trunk area, you can usually ground onto a tail lamp bolt or the stereo amplifier hold down studs that are between the back seats and the largest of the trunk liner pieces. If the trunk latch striker has already been scuffed and shows clean paint, maybe that can be used as well.

 

[ThatSNninety5]

there are two wires that go to the inertia switch that you bypassed with that little loop. One is the input from the ccrm in the front of the car and the other goes out to the fuel pump in the back. When the switch trips it will not send voltage out to stop the pump from running but we are really just trying to be sure your pump still works. Follow the wire that comes up from the trunk floor into the inertia switch and apply power to it. It would be a good idea to put a fuse inline just in case it is locked up and draws too much current but what size will depend on what fuel pump you have. I would imagine 10-15 amps should be enough to prime but I have never tried it. If you get some female space connectors, standard automotive fuses will slide right in

When you say standard automotive fuses am I going to be using the same one in my fuse box (20a MAXI) or a mini 15a or 15a MAXI since cobrajett mentioned 15amps is plenty for priming and when taking my battery to the trunk to put power to the fuel pump, im just going to get some female spade connectors like you mentioned use my 14gauge wire and do I just put the wire in the connector side that sends power to the pump and then touch my positive lead on the battery if so what is going to be my ground? Me? lmao

 

[ttocs]

you can use what ever physical size fuse you want as long as the amperage is enough to drive the pump. So it does not matter mini/full size fuse but do not put a 1 or 3 amp fuse in no matter how big or little....

 

[ThatSNninety5]

Tested by putting power through the connector (pictures below) my results are the fuel pump didnt prime or do anything so im going to conclude the pump is dead. Thoughts?

 

[ThatSNninety5]

Ignore my statement above. I was wrong and the pump primes still. I put my battery back in my car and tried to start it and it didnt even have enough power to do so and it just clicked so that made me thing even though my voltmeter was showing 12v on the battery, it couldnt prime the pump because it was drawing all the power when I touched the leads. So i got my battery back out and hooked up jumper cables to it with my other car and use my same setup from above and lone behold it primed. So what could that mean, there is a break somewhere from my CCRM to inertia switch?

Edit: one thing I also find weird is a scanner still wont work in my car either but I have power at the OBDII port. When my key is on igniton off and I try to connect the scanner, its connects to my phone but says “make sure the igniton is ON, when trying to pair” which it is

 

[cobrajeff96]

Well, it kinda means your battery is drained. Voltmeter may show 12v for the car battery, but the ampacity is so low that it cannot even provide just 15 measly amps to prime the pump. So.....time for a new battery?

 

[ttocs]

could be a little weak and if that is just a ring terminal hanging on the tail light bolt for a ground, you need a little better connection.

 

[ThatSNninety5]

Well, it kinda means your battery is drained. Voltmeter may show 12v for the car battery, but the ampacity is so low that it cannot even provide just 15 measly amps to prime the pump. So.....time for a new battery?

Unfortunately the battery is brand new, maybe its dead from me trying to start it but the car not being running for the past 2 months. Ill maybe try going to my auto parts store for a charge but even when I try to start the car with another car jumping it, itll crank but you can hear its not getting fuel. Is it possible im not getting power to the CCRM since I cant get a scanner to link and the fuel pump isnt getting power up to the inertia switch?

 

[ttocs]

so your saying no codes show up or the scanner is not connecting to it at all? That could be as simple as a bad fuse or something much more serious like an ecu problem. Obviously you will want to start simple and be absolutely sure that with out any doubt 120% positive after checking EVERY fuse under the dash and the hood at least one time that EVERY fuse is good, if not two times just to be sure.

I know on the 94/95 you can use a paperclip to short a plug while turning the key on and count the check engine light flashes for codes, can we do that on the modulars or is that just old obd1 tech?

 

[ThatSNninety5]

so your saying no codes show up or the scanner is not connecting to it at all? That could be as simple as a bad fuse or something much more serious like an ecu problem. Obviously you will want to start simple and be absolutely sure that with out any doubt 120% positive after checking EVERY fuse under the dash and the hood at least one time that EVERY fuse is good, if not two times just to be sure.

I know on the 94/95 you can use a paperclip to short a plug while turning the key on and count the check engine light flashes for codes, can we do that on the modulars or is that just old obd1 tech?

Im saying the scanner isnt connecting at all, when I put the scanner into the the OBDII port it gets power, the light blinks on it, its a bluetooth one and Im able to use the FORSCAN network with this scanner the brand is vLinker. But when trying to connect it to the FORSCAN viewer app on my phone it says “make sure the key is in the igniton in the ON position” which it is when im trying to connect the scanner but like I said it just wont connect at all. Ill check every single fuse today and get back with my results later.

 

[cobrajeff96]

The ECU actually gets power from one of the relays inside the CCRM (Pin #12 & #24, solid red wires, attached pdf diagram), so that could very well be why there's no OBD data going to your scanner. You can easily backprobe either of those two pins with the red multimeter lead to see if power is even making it to the computer, of course grounding the black MM lead (probably to the ABS pump ground if the car has it as that is the closest reliable ground point within reach).

 

[ThatSNninety5]

You know I have these problems with my car quite often and always think it is a much bigger situation than it is. My problem was fuse #18 in the fuse box under my dash blew, its a 20A mini fuse that controls what stated in the picture below, if I wouldve just throughly went through my fuses It wouldve saved me $170 from buying a ccrm. Thank you for yalls help on this one

 

[cobrajeff96]

That's good, but you're not outta the woods yet. Because if that fuse blew, the question is why.
Granted, even simple fuses degrade over long periods of time so chance this is just a fluke. Replace the bad fuse but keep an eye on things for a few drives. It may be fine after replacement. If not, the problem should resurface immediately if not very soon.

 

[ThatSNninety5]

That's good, but you're not outta the woods yet. Because if that fuse blew, the question is why.
Granted, even simple fuses degrade over long periods of time so chance this is just a fluke. Replace the bad fuse but keep an eye on things for a few drives. It may be fine after replacement. If not, the problem should resurface immediately if not very soon.

I agree 100% definitely will be keeping an eye on it. Hopefully it just popped because it was old