grounding my heads

ttocs

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I recently came across some info that recomended that you should ground your heads. I never thought about it before but it does use the ground for the spark plugs and after being mounted with a gasket and black oxide arp bolts I would not be surprised to hear that it isn't just a good idea but a must do. Anyone else do it?
 

lwarrior1016

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I recently came across some info that recomended that you should ground your heads. I never thought about it before but it does use the ground for the spark plugs and after being mounted with a gasket and black oxide arp bolts I would not be surprised to hear that it isn't just a good idea but a must do. Anyone else do it?

I didnt ground my heads separately but I have a 4/0 ground cable on the block. I used the back of my heads to provide ground to my coils and I havent had any issues. Running a cylinder head ground wouldnt be a bad idea (you already know that).
 

96blak54

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Dang ttocs....really good idea considering their are electronics grounded on top and if you think about it, the ground is connected throught the head gasket and bolts.
 
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ttocs

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exactly the more I thought about it I am amazed there is not a stock ground there on each one. This will be one of my next steps I can make a post to show how to do it.
 
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ttocs

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More cool stuff to baffle experts with at Sunday's Cars and Coffee.

I would love to hear any reason anyone thought it would be a bad idea or at the very best worthless. I think at the worst, its one of those things that will not hurt but anyone that has chased electrical gremlins to find a bad ground knows what a difference it can make. Been in the restroom/bedroom all day in the fetal position thinking about it I hope to take a closer look at it a little later.
 

evilcw311

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I made secondary grounds to my heads when I dropped the motor in last time. Just as a habit. I always have on anything I ever built.


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I need to get some ring terminals but on the passenger side it will be easy to run it down to the starter bolt to ground it, drivers side I didn't really see anything as good to use so I might just run the drivers side to the same location. It will be longer but it would be better to have them both grounded in the same place.
 

evilcw311

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I am a grounding nut and did not think of this, thank you, I know it will help. People flip when they see I grounded my heater core.

Uuuuhhhh..........?!?! You grounded a heater core??


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I made up some braided wire and looped around the hose nipple sticking into the engine compartment. The heater core is the farthest end loop of the cooling system usually circulating old ionized fluid through different metals like aluminum in the water pump a cast iron block to some soft drawn alloy in the heater core. The stray electrical charge eats the the core as a sacrificial anode and they erode. After replacing a core in my Marauder hooking up a ground wire is fast and cheap whether it helps or not. The heater core is surrounded by foam and not touching any thing to conduct the charge away. Am I crazy?
 

evilcw311

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[MENTION=20979]OLD H2S[/MENTION]

Your crazy but I like your kind of crazy thinking!!! :)


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OLD H2S

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I just 20-30 MORE HP!!! Hooked a 10 gauge wire to the back of the heads down to the starter where I have a welded in chassis ground lug. Now my magnetic turbo gas energiser thingy works and my hurricane intake swirl too. Now where are my isotropic crystals to put in my gas tank....
 

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Im always one of those guys who looks at things with the "if the factory didnt think it needed it; then why bother?" With multilayer steel headgaskets and the contact patch between the cylinder head and head bolts, its likely there is enough good contact area there to provide a good electrical connection between the top end and the engine block. Its easiest enough to check... just use a ohm-meter to check the resistance between a cylinder head and the chassis side of the ground strap and again between the engine block and the chassis end.
 
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Im always one of those guys who looks at things with the "if the factory didnt think it needed it; then why bother?" With multilayer steel headgaskets and the contact patch between the cylinder head and head bolts, its likely there is enough good contact area there to provide a good electrical connection between the top end and the engine block. Its easiest enough to check... just use a ohm-meter to check the resistance between a cylinder head and the chassis side of the ground strap and again between the engine block and the chassis end.


"If the factory didn't need it" - you and I are on different ends of the spectrum then as I can think of sooo many things the factory should have included but did not. Not sure what kind of gaskets I used but I don't remember them being metal. I am going to check the impedance once I have it ready. The local audio shops want a buck each for 8 awg ring terminals, no thanks I can wait(ordered in their parking lot).

I am going with 8 awg just because that is about the thinnest wire I run with I run power wires. I am willing to bet a 12 awg would be more then plenty but I am going to be sure

I had another thing get pointed out to me on the short 4 hrs I manage to make it at the holley classes I am curious what the debate would lead to. The HP EFI system from holley naturally recomends connecting its 12 awg power wires directly to the battery for power. I have two batteries in the trunk, one that is stock size and one larger battery and 0 awg power/ground going up to the front. Along the way it intercepts an isolator and as well as the dist blocks for the big ass amps I plan on adding before I connect to a fused dist block up under the hood. I connected an 8 awg power for the holley panel to the fuse box under the hood thinking closer to the alt = better and because if I put it in the rear the amps will be between the alt/battery and they can draw some current. I am not going to argue with the expert from holley as it has troubleshot 10x more systems then I have installed and because of this I am rerunning my power wires. Am I nuts to think what I thought?
 

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As for the Holley, i think they want it directly to the battery to reduce the voltage ripple and spikes from the Alternator... atleast thats what i assume. Not exactly sure why, but im sure they have there reasoning.
 
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agreed. But with the alt being the source of the power I would have thought closer to it = better? Like I said I am moving it to the starting battery but I can't help but think that with a couple high current amps between the power source and where power it tapped would be a bigger concern.
 

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