Hci complete but no start...

[rw95gt]

Well I finished up my hci and everything is in. I have spark at the plugs, I confirmed timing is correct multiple times. I clearly have fuel based off the raw fuel smell out of the exhaust.

It did crank and run for around a minute smoothly at 2000rpms with me holding the gas pedal steady. I tried to get it to idle with no luck. It just cut off. Tried more times with a friend working the distributor and still no luck. Pulled plugs and they where black. I replaced them and even re adjusted my valve lash. The cam is correctly and I have to grounds on the engine. Timing cover to frame rail and intake to firewall.

Do I simply need a tune to get it to crank?

Im frustrated and not sure what else to try.

Any advice?


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[white95]

Make sure you tightened the bolt for the main wiring harness connector

 

[ttocs]

start simple and as he said check all your harnesses and fuses. The harnesses with the screws/bolts in them do need them tight to work well. After that pull/inspect every fuse in the car. It will only take 2 mins and you can be sure that they are all good. After that be sure to check the grounds. I had issues with mine after my HCI swap and it turned out to be crack in the dist cap. It had to happen during the install as it ran perfect till we took it apart.

 

[rw95gt]

I have a bbk adjustable fuel pressure regulator and set it at 40psi and I have 24lb ford injectors with matching bbk maf. The main engine harness and trans harness are plugged in and tight. I also replaced my battery because mine was a little weak.

I just feel like I am missing something simple.

 

[rw95gt]

I will check all the fuses tomorrow and double check all the connectors. I'm running a performance distributor with their coil and tfi. I was using those before the hci install with no issues. Tomorrow I'm going to add a ground to both heads to the fire wall just to be sure I have good grounds. That will be 4 grounds on the engine. Haha.

 

[ttocs]

you pulled the vac line off to adjust the FPR right? My dist and cap were perfect as well prior to that install. It could have been dropped when it was pulled out or maybe they bumped it with the intake when putting it back in. The crack was barely visable but after replacing it, it was perfect.


What are you plans for a tune?

 

[rw95gt]

I'm going with qtr horse set up from dirtydirtyracing. I am going to go verify again I have the car at tdc on compression stroke and re check the timing. I have done this multiple times with the same results. What is bothering me is it did run and it ran smooth but it knocked off as I tried to let it idle down. I did set the fuel pressure with the vacuum line hooked up. I set it buy looking at it as I cranked it and it would shoot up to 60 and drop to 40psi in a second and hold. I have been searching for hrs trying to figure this out. Why would a crack in the distributor cause no start? I do have fire at the plugs. My dad has a auto 95 gt and I will pull his dizzy and try it at some point.

When it did start my friend was working the distributor and when it knocked off we moved it one tooth over. When we tried again it wouldn't do anything.

IF it is out of timing wont it still spit and pop some?

 

[94yellow50]

Pretty sure, not 100% but pretty sure fuel pressure needs to be set with the vacuum line unhooked from the regulator. As for the timing, easiest is pull passenger front plug, either put finger over hole or shove a piece of paper towel, and I used just a 1/2" drive ratchet to turn it over until it hits compression stroke then turn till 0 on the balancer. Then it's time to set in dizzy. Rotor pointing just to the right of cylinder 1. On my 94 there was a mark in the dizzy base n block from factory where it was originally set. That's what I line up for first start. Then go from there with the light.

 

[ttocs]

correct the FPR needs to be set with the vac line disconnected which is why I asked after he mentioned it. This could easily be the problem and where I would start. between this and the new maf on an unturned system it si probably why it ran when you gave it gas.

 

[rw95gt]

Im sorry it was a long day yesterday. The fuel pressure was set with the vacuum line disconnected. I hooked up my vacuum line after I had it set. Sorry for the confusion.

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[RichV]

After a HCI swap I did in the past it only ran with throttle, sounded a little weird. Found out I was 180* out on the distributor. Make sure the firing order is correct, plug wires on the right tower, correct distributor rotation, and FP is set to max of 42 with vac line off. Should be low 30s in idle with vac line back on. Never should it go to 60. I know you can't really set it without running the motor, maybe put the stocker on until you get it fired to at least eliminate that.

 

[rw95gt]

Sadly I tossed the old one along with the factory 19lb injectors and stock maf.

When I set the timing I did as everyone described. I found tdc on #1 cylinder(front passenger side) I pulled the plug and rotated the engine clock wise until I had compression with my finger over the hole. Checked my balancer and pulled it to 0 TDC. Put my plug in. Installed the distributor with the pointer at about 12:45 and installed the cap and set #1 at the rotor. I installed the plug wired in the correct order. Like I said its funny that when it cranked it didn't miss a beat. Smooth at 2000.


Thanks guys for the ideas and advice. Keep them coming. I just ordered my moated QH and innovate wide band with base tune. Im in touch with Willie via email.

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[rw95gt]

Auto correct is killing me and my fat fingers on my tiny phone. Haha.

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[rz5.0]

When you find the compression stroke did you bring the piston to tdc before stabbing the distributor.. check your harmonic balancer.. also when you try to start the car hold the gas pedal down to the floor..

 

[rw95gt]

Im going to verify timing tonight with a timing light while cranking to confirm its correct.

I did try messing with pedal position while cranking.

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[rz5.0]

Did you hold it down all the way to the floor. . Since you changed injectors it could spray to much gas. . Holding it down to the floor keeps the injectors from spraying any more fluid. .

 

[rw95gt]

Yes I tried floored a few times.

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[rz5.0]

Timing then

 

[rw95gt]

Ok. So today I pulled the plugs again and they all where clean but saturated in gas... So I also decided to check timing with a light. It wasn't hitting any numbers... Plugs out so I found tdc on #1. Confirmed it twice as is found it. Kept going and passed it once and hit compression again. Turned it slowly to 10 degrees. Pulled cap off and #1 was off by around a hr. So the rotor was at 1:15 and #1 on the cap was at 12:15. I aligned it perfectly and double checked my firing order. Plugs are out and im letting them dry and the cylinders. Im sure the pistons, valves and everything are soaked and need to dry out.

I checked my fuses and found one blown under the hood. It says in my manual it controls a convertible top. My car is not a convertible... I replaced it and with the key off it has power. Any idea what this fuse is for?

Im adding grounds to both heads to the fire wall using 10 gauge wire also tonight.

My qh is on the way with Willies custom tune on it and I will try again when it gets here this week.

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[rw95gt]

I think the 30amp that was blown to the convertible top(that I don't have) went to the cigarette lighter.

I turned the ignition on and I have power at my injectors iac valve and maf but NO power at my tps sensor... Shouldn't it have power?


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