Head and cam advice PLEASE!!!

[TheLynchMob]

I need to take off my heads to fix some broken header bolt issues so I figured I'd change them while I'm at it....stupid not to. Cam also. I need suggestions please.

94 Mustang GT 5.0L / 5-speed
- Trick Flow lower/upper intake
- Trick Flow intake elbow
- Upgraded TB (not sure what brand)
- BBK cold air intake
- Performance Ignition coil, cap, rotor, & 10mm wires
- BBK shorty headers, catless x-pipe, flow master 40's (changing to Magnaflow XL)

I found a set of GT40p heads for $150, which seems a good deal....but I read somewhere that not all headers work due to spark plug placement. Will I have that issue with my BBK? Also is there anything I'll run into doing the swap...or is it easy peasy(sp?).

Also, what would be a good cam to run....not looking for a very expensive cam, but would like something to complement what's already been done and the new heads.

 

[mcglsr2]

For your intake, Street Burner or Track Heat?

Also, what are your goals? Any of us can throw parts at you, and most will be good. What's most important to you? Budget? Some HP goal? TQ goal? Pure street car? How much work do you want the heads to be? Straight up bolt-on? Feel like fly cutting your pistons? .. We will need a little more context if you want the suggestions to be applicable to your situation.

 

[TheLynchMob]

For your intake, Street Burner or Track Heat?

Also, what are your goals? Any of us can throw parts at you, and most will be good. What's most important to you? Budget? Some HP goal? TQ goal? Pure street car? How much work do you want the heads to be? Straight up bolt-on? Feel like fly cutting your pistons? .. We will need a little more context if you want the suggestions to be applicable to your situation.

I'm not sure which one, not even 100% sure the lower isn't stock. I've only had the car 2 months, and everything except the x-pipe and ignition was done before I got it. Is there a way I can tell the difference in the intakes?

Right now I want budget friendly easy upgrades...just for better street performance. I an going to be working a stroker soon, so the heads and cam I do now I want to bolt up and go, no additional work needed.

 

[mcglsr2]

I'm not sure which one, not even 100% sure the lower isn't stock. I've only had the car 2 months, and everything except the x-pipe and ignition was done before I got it. Is there a way I can tell the difference in the intakes?

Right now I want budget friendly easy upgrades...just for better street performance. I an going to be working a stroker soon, so the heads and cam I do now I want to bolt up and go, no additional work needed.

The only way I know of to check is to pull the upper and look at the number on the underside. I think there's a letter towards the end of the number that denotes whether it's a street or track. But honestly, with those goals, it's kind of irrelevant.

Using something like the GT40p heads with stock cam should get you around 260-270 HP, which is a nice bump over stock. If you want nicer heads, you can look into Edlebrock, TF or AFRs, but you will need to find used ones, brand new will cost a pretty penny. The stock cam is actually not that bad. You may be able to put 1.7RRs on there for a little more lift, but I don't have any experience with GT40p heads and 1.7RRs clearance. For those heads, I'm not sure a new cam would be worth it. If you do decided to go TF, AFR, etc, then keep the intake valve size at 1.9, as the larger 2.02 valves *may* require you to clearance your pistons. A slightly larger cam here would be worthwhile, just keep the duration/overlap small to minimize piston-to-valve clearance issues.

[MENTION=17007]RichV[/MENTION] might be able to help out with some good suggestions as well, he has a really grasp on those GT40p heads, their capabilities, and any caveats you may run into.

 

[TheLynchMob]

The only way I know of to check is to pull the upper and look at the number on the underside. I think there's a letter towards the end of the number that denotes whether it's a street or track. But honestly, with those goals, it's kind of irrelevant.

Using something like the GT40p heads with stock cam should get you around 260-270 HP, which is a nice bump over stock. If you want nicer heads, you can look into Edlebrock, TF or AFRs, but you will need to find used ones, brand new will cost a pretty penny. The stock cam is actually not that bad. You may be able to put 1.7RRs on there for a little more lift, but I don't have any experience with GT40p heads and 1.7RRs clearance. For those heads, I'm not sure a new cam would be worth it. If you do decided to go TF, AFR, etc, then keep the intake valve size at 1.9, as the larger 2.02 valves *may* require you to clearance your pistons. A slightly larger cam here would be worthwhile, just keep the duration/overlap small to minimize piston-to-valve clearance issues.

RichV might be able to help out with some good suggestions as well, he has a really grasp on those GT40p heads, their capabilities, and any caveats you may run into.

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking I have a small cam in there already, not 100% sure on that either. Was idling smooth after fixing firing order, then all of a sudden started to hop at idle again. Either a cam or an idle issue....not knowing exactly what was done is always fun.

 

[mcglsr2]

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking I have a small cam in there already, not 100% sure on that either. Was idling smooth after fixing firing order, then all of a sudden started to hop at idle again. Either a cam or an idle issue....not knowing exactly what was done is always fun.

Yah, that can be a lot of things. Typically, though, to get a lopey idle, the cam has to tend towards the bigger side (longer duration/overlap). I think you would notice. So it's probably more likely it's a vacuum issue or IAV issue...

 

[Mustanger]

I got a good deal on a new E cam but I hear the Steeda 19 & TF #1 are good mild upgrades that are easy to live with...then there are more modern cams from the aftermarkey you could look into...hardest part may be finding a good shop to tune it afterwards.

 

[RichV]

Make sure the GT40p heads have ugraded springs. A E303 cam is a good choice for a economy upgrade. I bought a couple of them for around $100. Roller cams are fine to buy used.

I have a set of TFS Stage 1 springs I don't need, haven't listed them for sale but I'll make you a deal if you want them.

I run a set of BBK fox headers and the GT40p heads work with 90* plug wires. #7 is a little close, but a good plug boot hasn't given me any issues. This is on a 94 road race car so it sees 5000 RPM on a regular basis each time it sees the track.

 

[TheLynchMob]

Make sure the GT40p heads have ugraded springs. A E303 cam is a good choice for a economy upgrade. I bought a couple of them for around $100. Roller cams are fine to buy used.

I have a set of TFS Stage 1 springs I don't need, haven't listed them for sale but I'll make you a deal if you want them.

I run a set of BBK fox headers and the GT40p heads work with 90* plug wires. #7 is a little close, but a good plug boot hasn't given me any issues. This is on a 94 road race car so it sees 5000 RPM on a regular basis each time it sees the track.

Thanks for the info. I had read about the stock springs on the p heads. What kind of deal can you make on the ones you have? And I don' have 90 degree boots, they are 45 I think....I hope they work because they were $110 and I'm not buying more. lol

Also, I think I might have a small cam already (can't be sure since neither I or the guy I got it from did the work on the car). But with all the engine & suspension work someone did along with a near new double roller timing set I'd assume it has a small cam in it. I hate to change it out for something identical.....so I'm thinking sticking with the cam in there, stock or not. Would the GT40p heads be complemented with everything else that's been done to at least make a noticeable difference? At least until I get my stroker built.

 

[TrickVert]

GT-40P heads will be a good match for what you have already (whether you have a stock or mild-upgrade cam). If your intake is the Track Heat, though, I'd consider selling/trading for the Street Heat or a Cobra setup. You'll be giving up some low-mid level performance with the Track Heat (it's designed for high-RPM power which you won't get with the P's). My N/A motor with stock bottom end, TFS upper/lower, Steeda #19 cam, 24# injectors, 75mm MAF, CAI, and 70mm TB was good for 272 RWHP/298 Tq. through a T5 manual. Drivability (tuned) was like stock.

Sorry I can't give any input on headers. I have MAC P-specific headers, and use 90° boots.

Andy

 

[ranger56528]

I had BBK headers so I went with just the 40 heads so I wouldn't have to buy new headers and wires if my old ones didn't workout and I went with a E cam with the Typhoon intake I had,nothing wrong with the 40p heads with a spring change.