Help me pick a receiver!

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Venompower

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ttocs

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I have made some into the coin holder that goes over the convertible button as well in the console depending on what year.
 

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I'll definitely grab this, should work no matter which location I end up choosing.
I’ve done about 7 of these installs and a bunch of them end up being cable type and length sensitive for CarPlay. Just make sure you keep the overall USB cable length as short as possible. CarPlay is very sensitive to long cables and non-MFI cables. Use a genuine Apple cable to connect the port to the iPhone for best results but, a good, short MFI cable will probably work fine. If you get weird results with CarPlay disconnecting or not functioning, it’s usually always something in the cable chain. That being said, of all the different brands and installs I’ve been through, the Kenwood in my F-150 Harley seems to be the least cable sensitive of all of them.
 
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I have a 6 foot Walmart USB to Lightning, and CarPlay worked fine with that plug into the female port out the back of the Kenwood.

I'm now going down the rabbit hole of speaker upgrades... which has me utterly confused.
 

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I went with some boston acustic 6 x 8s myself and have been happy with them. They are not a name you will hear often, unless you know the name. I have heard some really nice sounding systems with them in them. They are good at low and high volume.
 
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I went with some boston acustic 6 x 8s myself and have been happy with them. They are not a name you will hear often, unless you know the name. I have heard some really nice sounding systems with them in them. They are good at low and high volume.
If it's cool I might PM you about a budget setup to bypass the Mach 460 system...
 

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Amazon also sells these.
BATIGE Alloy Dual Port USB 3.0 Car Dashboard Flush Mount Cable, Male to Female with LED Indicator Extension Cable for Car Truck Boat Motorcycle Dashboard Panel - 3ft https://a.co/d/3mofBAm

DAMAVO YM1218 Female USB C & USB A Dual Port Car Charger Socket Power Outlet Type C USB Car Charger Socket Waterproof with Cap 12V/24V for Car, Boat, Golf Cart, Bus, RV, Automotive Marine ATV Truck https://a.co/d/29OOJQA

I installed one in the cig lighter hole in the shifter bezel, and one inside my console.
One of them plugs into the 2 ports in the back of the radio, and the other one is powered off the existing 12v for the cig lighter. That one I just use as a charger for my iphone that I keep in the console. My normal phone has always been Android, but I bought a cheap iPhone to use as iPod for the radio.
That way I have my iPod music , and I can still do Android Auto for Spotify, YT Music etc.
 
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Wires to Kenwood are in correct orientation…

I then used the fader to see where sound was coming from… no sound from driver rear or passenger front.
 

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4 ohms is correct.

Not sure why on speaker on each side would quit but better double check the deck wiring.
 
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4 ohms is correct.

Not sure why on speaker on each side would quit but better double check the deck wiring.
I moved wires around and no change. I would expect either both front or both rear to not work if it was an amp? How would I test to the connector the tweeter plugs into?

Do you think it could be a bad adaptor?
 
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I went back out and swapped the known good tweeter to the side with no sound and still no sound. Double checked inputs, and the adaptor harness, and everything appears fine.

Narrowed down that it appears to just be the passenger side with no sound. Wonder if the receiver is defective? Again if it was an amp, I’d expect no sound front or no sound rear…

Guess I’ll reach out to crutchfield tomorrow.
 
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do you know which wire harness you used for the install? have you tried measuring the resistance from the deck wiring assuming you went around the mach amps(hopefully)?
 
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do you know which wire harness you used for the install? have you tried measuring the resistance from the deck wiring assuming you went around the mach amps(hopefully)?
I did not bypass the Mach amps as it seemed like a bit of work and money... however, I'm too the point of saying I probably need to bypass/remove the amps and run new wire to the speakers and purchase a replacement amp. I don't want some show level audio system but I want some decent even sound for when I'm driving.

What would you add to the Kenwood to achieve that goal. What would be an affordable way to add a new amp and wire it and the head unit to my speakers?
 

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did you use the tweeter speaker wire, or the woofers speaker wire as your signal at each speaker location?
 
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did you use the tweeter speaker wire, or the woofers speaker wire as your signal at each speaker location?
So Crutchfield sent me a picture of the adaptor and advised cutting away the top part as the connector sometimes fits "too tightly" on the plug. They advised they think the right side connections aren't making good contact.

120705510_modify_tip0.png
 

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never heard of this before but it can't hurt. Seems like if that was the problem you could test it by pushing the harness up/down/side/side with it powered up and see if the sound drops out.

did you bypass the mach system?
 
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never heard of this before but it can't hurt. Seems like if that was the problem you could test it by pushing the harness up/down/side/side with it powered up and see if the sound drops out.

did you bypass the mach system?
I did not bypass the Mach system. I initially wanted to just do a head unit upgrade and leave everything else, if I can get the speakers working I probably still will for now. If I can't get the speakers working I'll have to figure something else out.

I'm not sure following their advice will fix it, but the adaptor harness is somewhat loose inside, and it was very difficult to get things lined up and clicked into place... so I guess I see the logic that if each row is one side of the car, then one row not seating would mean no sound to one side.
 

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