well thats good news, now we know that it is a stock part. most likely the tps sensor or a senor none the less. how many miles is on ur car? and did u ever have a bucking issue.redmustang95 said:I have stock everything. the only thing i have is bbk cold air intake.
SaleenStang94 said:I dont know why but my car has had this problem for a while now and cant figure it out. under light acceleration the car (sometimes, idk why not all the time) will hesitate/stumble for a few sec's then backfire (usally just one small pop). but as soon as the car backfires it will takeoff like it was building pressure then the backfire was its releif. i thought it was my intake leak or bad plugs but nope. the car was dyno tuned and it cont. to do this on the way home..therefore tuning didnt solve the issue. could this be related to a bad tps? i have no problems at full throttle it only backfires/ hesistates under light accel. thanks for ur help!
please let me know what ur progress is.redmustang95 said:I bought the car recently. Has over 110000 miles, speedo is not working now. I bought in summer so i didn't notice it right away. I'm going to check the TPS sensor and pull codes.
brand new trans, less than 2k miles on it. brand new plugs less than 300miles on them. wires are a year old. i should check the o2's i guess. but i think its either o2s, maf or tps. leaning on tps... i was also told that its my c&L maf but ^ doesnt have any mods so i guess it couldnt be.my96gtstang said:SaleenStang94 said:I dont know why but my car has had this problem for a while now and cant figure it out. under light acceleration the car (sometimes, idk why not all the time) will hesitate/stumble for a few sec's then backfire (usally just one small pop). but as soon as the car backfires it will takeoff like it was building pressure then the backfire was its releif. i thought it was my intake leak or bad plugs but nope. the car was dyno tuned and it cont. to do this on the way home..therefore tuning didnt solve the issue. could this be related to a bad tps? i have no problems at full throttle it only backfires/ hesistates under light accel. thanks for ur help!
had/have the same prob, its your tranny getting old. but just for precaution replace the o2s, wires, plugs, stuff like that. if it still does it its your tranny. he hesitation under light accleration is your tranny getting old and wanting to downshift but doesnt and slips...
no check engine light. i had adjusted the tps sensor (about 3 wks ago) to .98 b/c i had a bad bucking issue when coasting. this solved the problem, (this was also the first time i had to modify or move the tps, besides putting it on a new tb). i was just told that u should never adjust the tps and if it causes problems to replace it. so i guess i should replace it... would a diagnostic tool tell me what the problem is?ryclef331 said:Ok FIRST OFF....
94-95 cars DO NOT SET TPS EVERY TIME ON START UP. I don't know who started that vicious fucking lie but it is bunk. I've talked PERSONALLY to numerous tuners about the sensitivity of the 94-95 computer. That is crap. Your car may run just fine with 1.08v at closed throttle but that doesn't mean its optimal. Even if it DID set the TPS everytime, that still isn't going to fix a shitty driving car is the TPS itself is just plain shot. CHECK THE VOLTAGE and set it as stated above. As for the MAF. Clean the wires. Yeah a C&L is a bunk way of calibrating a MAF in my eyes but they CAN work. The biggest problem with them is they are sensitive to turbulence creating false readings. Try clocking (rotating) the maf housing it self. Do like 90 degrees at a time. Sounds dumb but I've see it work miracles on some cars. The reason you car is doing it at part throttle only and not WOT is b/c at WOT your car goes into OPEN loop mode....i.e. it runs off of a set table for just that....WOT runs. The same is true for cold start ups. Basically, the car ignores all sensors during this. CLOSED loop is part throttle. Its reading from the MAF, o2s, IAT, TPS, and Engine Temp...so it can be a combination of those causing your problems. You didn't say if the CEL was on or not. Start with what I said there and then get back to us.
purplehaze said:very helpful, thanks so much!will do you on the day i have off from work, thanks.
ryclef331 said:Ok FIRST OFF....
94-95 cars DO NOT SET TPS EVERY TIME ON START UP. I don't know who started that vicious fucking lie but it is bunk. I've talked PERSONALLY to numerous tuners about the sensitivity of the 94-95 computer. That is crap. Your car may run just fine with 1.08v at closed throttle but that doesn't mean its optimal. Even if it DID set the TPS everytime, that still isn't going to fix a shitty driving car is the TPS itself is just plain shot. CHECK THE VOLTAGE and set it as stated above. As for the MAF. Clean the wires. Yeah a C&L is a bunk way of calibrating a MAF in my eyes but they CAN work. The biggest problem with them is they are sensitive to turbulence creating false readings. Try clocking (rotating) the maf housing it self. Do like 90 degrees at a time. Sounds dumb but I've see it work miracles on some cars. The reason you car is doing it at part throttle only and not WOT is b/c at WOT your car goes into OPEN loop mode....i.e. it runs off of a set table for just that....WOT runs. The same is true for cold start ups. Basically, the car ignores all sensors during this. CLOSED loop is part throttle. Its reading from the MAF, o2s, IAT, TPS, and Engine Temp...so it can be a combination of those causing your problems. You didn't say if the CEL was on or not. Start with what I said there and then get back to us.
will do this on sat. (my friend has a shop where i can do it). i just hope its the tps b/c i dont want to deal with a maf problem. but the guy aOT it could still be a problem....open it slowly and watch your volt meter. The numbers should increase smoothly. If it jumps around erratically, you've probably got a dead spot. Don't just buy a new one b/c you think you might have a dead spot. BE SURE you part is bad before you spend the dough.ryclef331 said:With the TPS, whenever you take it off or put it back on you should ALWAYS set it. New or old. If you have an old one and suspect that even though it is within limits closed and at WOT it could still be a problem....open it slowly and watch your volt meter. The numbers should increase smoothly. If it jumps around erratically, you've probably got a dead spot. Don't just buy a new one b/c you think yotttttttttttttttttu might have a dead spot. BE SURE you part is bad before you spend the dough.
quickstang_1994 said:ryclef331 said:Ok FIRST OFF....
94-95 cars DO NOT SET TPS EVERY TIME ON START UP. I don't know who started that vicious fucking lie but it is bunk. I've talked PERSONALLY to numerous tuners about the sensitivity of the 94-95 computer. That is crap. Your car may run just fine with 1.08v at closed throttle but that doesn't mean its optimal. Even if it DID set the TPS everytime, that still isn't going to fix a shitty driving car is the TPS itself is just plain shot. CHECK THE VOLTAGE and set it as stated above. As for the MAF. Clean the wires. Yeah a C&L is a bunk way of calibrating a MAF in my eyes but they CAN work. The biggest problem with them is they are sensitive to turbulence creating false readings. Try clocking (rotating) the maf housing it self. Do like 90 degrees at a time. Sounds dumb but I've see it work miracles on some cars. The reason you car is doing it at part throttle only and not WOT is b/c at WOT your car goes into OPEN loop mode....i.e. it runs off of a set table for just that....WOT runs. The same is true for cold start ups. Basically, the car ignores all sensors during this. CLOSED loop is part throttle. Its reading from the MAF, o2s, IAT, TPS, and Engine Temp...so it can be a combination of those causing your problems. You didn't say if the CEL was on or not. Start with what I said there and then get back to us.
Ford did. I wonder if you talked to the same tuner god (you have to know the story) that almost blow up my car that said the same shit. If you go over the perameters in the computer you will see why they are not getting cel. The 94-95 computers are totally different and most tuners tune them but do not specialize in them b/c they were only avalible for two years.
redmustang95 said:I bought the car recently. Has over 110000 miles, speedo is not working now. I bought in summer so i didn't notice it right away. I'm going to check the TPS sensor and pull codes.
SaleenStang94 said:turned the maf, no more problems.... that was easy...
