Houston, we got a problem...

edumspeed · May 8, 2009

So I decided to fix the water leak emanating from the timing chain cover. Everything was going smoothly until the time to remove the water pump/timing cover bolts came. To make the long story short, I ended up with three rust frozen tight broken bolts. :BangHead: The cover won't bulge. Any ideas? :dontknow:

CC'S95GT · May 8, 2009

I'd say to start soaking those bolts in PB Blaster. let it soak in for a couple days. then clamp on a set of vice grips to the ends of the bolts, as you apply pressure to loosen them, tap on the end of the bolts with a hammer. use more tapping than turning. your essentially making your hands into an impact. sometimes if you turn the bolt back and forth it will also come loose. you might want to remove the rad. if you haven't already. good luck

Steven · May 8, 2009

Take a small drill bit and drill on the outside of the cover where the bolts go through. Spray on in there and let it soak. The on eat up the corrossion and use a pair of vice grip from there. I've done that many times it's a big pain in the butt

edumspeed · May 8, 2009

Thanks for the replies. I'll try that tomorrow. Wish me luck!

Steven · May 8, 2009

Nothing your not capable of. Just take your time. I've dealt with them on countless occasions. Drives me crazy otherwise but yes lol.

Win · May 9, 2009

Also if it doesn't work don't get frustrated just soak them some more and go back and forth. You just have to break that initial seal.

BlkoutGT · May 9, 2009

I suggest using a pipe wrench if you can. the one looks pretty shallow. But i had the same thing happen on a 302 i have. Worked pretty good. Good luck!

BOS-94-003 · May 9, 2009

You should still be able to remove the timing cover since the head of the bolts are broken off. The bottom of the cover has a lip that sits into your oil pan. Once you drop your oil pan enough to clear the lip you should be able to slide your timing cover straight off giving you more access to the threads of the bolts for better PB soaking and a better grip on that shorter bolt.

Steven · May 9, 2009

BOS-94-003 said:
You should still be able to remove the timing cover since the head of the bolts are broken off. The bottom of the cover has a lip that sits into your oil pan. Once you drop your oil pan enough to clear the lip you should be able to slide your timing cover straight off giving you more access to the threads of the bolts for better PB soaking and a better grip on that shorter bolt.

The bolts are literalll frozen to the cover due to corrossion

edumspeed · May 9, 2009

I managed to get the longer bolt out by using the hammer tapping trick :thumbsup: but the other broke again! :BangHead: but at least the cover is out!

ccasion14:

wayne94mustang · May 9, 2009

pb blaster and heat with taping will remove just about anything.

CC'S95GT · May 9, 2009

good job if you can't get them now using the same method you need to drill a hole down the center and use an easy-out. if you can find a place that sells left handed drill bits (yes, it's a real thing). using one can create heat and sometimes the combination of heat and friction in the reverse rototation, the bolt will come out with the drill bit.

Steven · May 9, 2009

Torch FTW

edumspeed · May 10, 2009

The stupid bolt broke YET AGAIN!! :violent1: Of all the places a bolt could have broken, it had to be on the engine block :BangHead: I'll try to find those reverse drill bits bec. the one I had either has gone missing or is one of the broken ones I had laying around the drill's storage box i have. I hope that I don't need to get the engine out to fix this. This is going to suck... :angry4:

CC'S95GT · May 10, 2009

damn dude. you shouldn't need to pull the motor to drill and tap the new hole. when you drill the hole for the easy out make sure you go perfectly down the middle. and if the easy out doesn't work step up the the next larger size until you can use the correct tap and make new threads.

94kingcbra · May 11, 2009

I hate tapping, just take your time and drill straight!....Good Luck

topless95 · May 11, 2009

before you drill cover the open area of the oil pan so you don't end up with metal shavings in the pan. Then before you button her back up remove both oil pan bolts and run a quart or two down into the pan.

edumspeed · May 13, 2009

topless95 said:
before you drill cover the open area of the oil pan so you don't end up with metal shavings in the pan. Then before you button her back up remove both oil pan bolts and run a quart or two down into the pan.

I already covered the area with some plastic bags :thumbsup: before doing anything. I bought a set of reverse drill bits at the local Pep Boys for $10, a small bolt extractor and a Melling timing kit . Tomorrow I'll work on the car. The timing cover gaskets are Felpro.
Only things left to buy are the power steering pump, coolant, oil & filter, new bolts for the timing cover/water pump and the two coolant bypass hoses. Then to finish painting the parts for re-assembly :headbang:

edumspeed · May 26, 2009

It's finished! :headbang: Thanks for the help guys! :thumbsup: I also solved the CEL i had for some time. The culprit was a broken vacum line for the EGR valve.