How to replace a clutch on a SN95

sn95jones

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Alright so I figure I might as well do this myself but before I ask how you do it I got a couple questions..
1.) If I drive my car onto a ramp should that be enough room to remove the transmission?
2.) What should I use to remove the transmission?
3.) What's your experience on replacing a clutch on our car's?
4.) How the hell do you do it?

A guide would be very much appreciated,
Thanks!
 

Musturd

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Easy job. Personally ramps won't be high enough. Get jack stands I like to use 4 when doing it at home . You'll need a bunch of extensions and a wobbly to get the top bell housing bolts. The third bolt on the starter is a pain in the ass. Most the bolts are 13mm on a 4.6 once you do it a few times you can do clutch jobs in about 2 hours. Being that this will be your first time the h pipe and starter will give you trouble. Make sure to remove the shifter bezel from inside and atleast take the handle off the shifter. Oh yea disconnect the batter before unbolting the starter. Pull off the Inspection cover I think it's a single 10mm then you can use a pry bar to disconnect the clutch cable. The drive shaft is 12mm 12 point bolts,once you unbolt the drive shaft make sure you have a drain pan close by. I always Do this stuff at my shop Now days, but I have done what you are about to do so many times on on the ground .thetranny is light you should be able to lift in urself make sure to get ur flywheel resurfaced
 

Musturd

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Make sure to use a ford TOB and pilot bearing. The ram hdx will be a great improvement for ya and there cheap good to 400hp I believe. I have used alot of these in customer cars and have yet to have a single complaint. I used to use zoom clutches alot but there quality has gone to crap.
 

CC'S95GT

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go ahead and start soaking the h/x pipe bolts in PB blaster. At the header and cat back. Mainly the header.
Mark where the drive shaft is bolted to the rear end so you can put it back in the same position, Otherwise you might get a vibration.
 

Musturd

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Good advice on spraying the h pipe bolts. Hopefully no studs break for ya Cus there a pain to do with out lifting the motor .
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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Heres a video of this god awful sound I'm hearing
[video=youtube;LDlOa_K3aZQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDlOa_K3aZQ&feature=channel_video_title[/video]
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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Just called the shop and the owner says they put a new clutch kit in, USED flywheel, new u joint, new throw out bearing. He says sounds like its a bearing inside the transmission and that replacing that bearing would run me a good $800-$1000 and that he suggests just finding a used transmission or rebuilt transmission from a salvage yard for half the price
 

Musturd

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Yea it could be a bad bearing I did that to t45 before yea just find a nice used one or get urs rebuilt
 

Slykin

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Sounds like my recently rebuilt one.... >.> Just make sure and get the car really high up when you do the swap.
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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So what do you guys recommend doing? rebuild tranny or swap it for another T45? which is the most inexpensive route?
 

OnyxCobra

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I couldn't hear much in that video, or maybe I didn't know what to listen for. Do you feel any vibration in the shifter? Does it only do it when the clutch is out? What about when it's in gear?
 

Addermk2

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Does the noise completely stop when you press the clutch all the way down?


If the noise is present with your foot off the clutch, but goes away when applying gentle pressure to the pedal, its your TOB. If the noise is audible when your foot is off the clutch, does not go away when resting your foot on the pedal, and is completely gone when pressing the pedal to the floor... then it is inside the transmission.

Sounds to me like the shop put a new clutch kit in, and resurfaced YOUR flywheel. It would be a great idea to get your ass under the car and make sure those guys put fluid back in your transmission... Or at least the right fluid.
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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Well I just went to the store and was listening to was the sound was and it sounds as if its directly beneath the shifter. When I apply gentle pressure to the clutch it will slightly go away but not by much
 

Addermk2

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please read the rest of my post, and answer the questions.

I cannot help you unless you give me ALL of the information I ask for.
 
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sn95jones

sn95jones

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Could you explain why? That's great I need a new rebuild or swapped tranny, but could you explain what it sounds like is wrong?
 

Addermk2

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If you don't understand how the clutch system works, then I am just wasting my time... but here goes...

In the end of the crank, there is a pilot bearing. The tip of the transmission input shaft rests in this bearing.
On the end of the crank, is your flywheel. Bolted to the flywheel, is the clutch pressure plate.
Pressed in between the flywheel and pressure plate, is the clutch disc.
Behind this whole assembly, is the Throw Out Bearing (TOB)
The input shaft of the transmission slides through the TOB and through the center of the clutch disc, and into the pilot bearing (see above).

When at idle, and in neutral, the crank turns, which spins the flywheel/clutch disc/flexplate assembly, and spins the input shaft on the transmission.
the TOB does not spin. It has a bearing on the end that rests against the back of the pressure plate. These will sometimes squeak if they do not stay in constant contact with the Pressure Plate. If you put pressure on the clutch pedal, the actual bearing on the TOB will spin with the pressure plate, stopping the squeak.
If the noise continues, the TOB is likely NOT the cause, but if it was, you would feel the noise harmonic through the clutch pedal.

The reason I say that your trans is the culprit is because pressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor will release the clutch disc, and it will stop spinning. Along with the input shaft of the transmission.

The two parts inside your transmission that would be causing this noise are the input shaft nose or tail bearing, or cluster shaft bearings.
 

johns94gt

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Easy job. Personally ramps won't be high enough. Get jack stands I like to use 4 when doing it at home . You'll need a bunch of extensions and a wobbly to get the top bell housing bolts. The third bolt on the starter is a pain in the ass. Most the bolts are 13mm on a 4.6 once you do it a few times you can do clutch jobs in about 2 hours. Being that this will be your first time the h pipe and starter will give you trouble. Make sure to remove the shifter bezel from inside and atleast take the handle off the shifter. Oh yea disconnect the batter before unbolting the starter. Pull off the Inspection cover I think it's a single 10mm then you can use a pry bar to disconnect the clutch cable. The drive shaft is 12mm 12 point bolts,once you unbolt the drive shaft make sure you have a drain pan close by. I always Do this stuff at my shop Now days, but I have done what you are about to do so many times on on the ground .thetranny is light you should be able to lift in urself make sure to get ur flywheel resurfaced


I found it alot easier to get the top bellhousing bolts from going through the top of the motor beside the firewall with a 5/8 wrench!!
 

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