I want to build a Engine

[fastgtfairlane]

i would love to know where all of you are getting your information from. if your shop teacher is telling you that you should never buy a junkyard engine and rebuild it and make a good engine out of it or make it last then they shouldnt be teaching kids how to work on cars plain and simple. building an engine is not rocket science. what do you think a reman engine is?.

i built my first 302 in highschool at 17. i bought new pistons, hastings cast rings, clevite bearings rod, cam, main bearings, new gt40p heads. i took the block to a machine shop and had them replace the cam bearings. kept the stock cam, although i wish i coulda replaced it. and i got arp rod bolts. spent lil over 900 bucks on total cost including gaskets and engine paint. engine ran strong, put it my 68 fairlane, with longtubes, eddy performer intake, holley 6410 750 vac secondary carb, c4, 9inch w 3.25 gears into the low 9s in the eighth. it was no rocket ship by any means but it ran good and i did it all myself. i was so stoked cause i did most of the work myself. 5.0 mustangs are very easy to work on. for the op, i would recommend just a 306 build. stock internals will handle some decent power. seen many put a blower on a stock short block, not to mention countless hci setups goin on, all done with a stock shortblock.

get yourself a factory ford shop manual and study it over. use it a guide and it will explain how to check your oil clearances for the bearings, your ring gaps, torque specs. make sure you have a decent torque wrench in hand. i recommend the clicker torque wrench. you can use plastigauge to check your clearances on your bearings. take ur time and triple check everything. the first time you hear it crank, it will definitely put a huge smile on your face.

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

i would love to know where all of you are getting your information from. if your shop teacher is telling you that you should never buy a junkyard engine and rebuild it and make a good engine out of it or make it last then they shouldnt be teaching kids how to work on cars plain and simple. building an engine is not rocket science. what do you think a reman engine is?.

i built my first 302 in highschool at 17. i bought new pistons, hastings cast rings, clevite bearings rod, cam, main bearings, new gt40p heads. i took the block to a machine shop and had them replace the cam bearings. kept the stock cam, although i wish i coulda replaced it. and i got arp rod bolts. spent about 900 bucks on total cost including gaskets and engine paint. engine ran strong, put my 68 fairlane, with longtubes, eddy performer intake, holley 6410 750 vac secondary carb, c4, 9inch w 3.25 gears into the low 9s in the eighth. it was no rocket ship by any means but it ran good and i did it all myself. i was so stoked cause i did most of the work myself. 5.0 mustangs are very easy to work on. for the op, i would recommend just a 306 build. stock internals will handle some decent power. seen many put a blower on a stock short block, not to mention countless hci setups goin on, all done with a stock shortblock.

get yourself a factory ford shop manual and study it over. use it a guide and it will explain how to check your oil clearances for the bearings, your ring gaps, torque specs. make sure you have a decent torque wrench in hand. i recommend the clicker torque wrench. you can use plastigauge to check your clearances on your bearings. take ur time and triple check everything. the first time you hear it crank, it will definitely put a huge smile on your face.

thank you my friend.... post of the year.

 

[50HorsePlay]

I couldnt agree with fairlane anymore!!!! I second his story. Ive been there and done it. Nothing wrong with a junkyard block, as long as you know what your looking for. At 18 I took my 400 sbc that was given me to the best machine shop in the area, they tanked it, checked for cracks, machined and installed the bottom end. All this was done for $400. Through on the stock heads, a few used bolt-ons and the motor ran strong the entire time i had the car. NOTHING WRONG WITH JUNKYARD BLOCKS!!!!! (unless the obviously have a hung chunk missing out of them) LOL

 

[cworley]

i would love to know where all of you are getting your information from. if your shop teacher is telling you that you should never buy a junkyard engine and rebuild it and make a good engine out of it or make it last then they shouldnt be teaching kids how to work on cars plain and simple. building an engine is not rocket science. what do you think a reman engine is?.

i built my first 302 in highschool at 17. i bought new pistons, hastings cast rings, clevite bearings rod, cam, main bearings, new gt40p heads. i took the block to a machine shop and had them replace the cam bearings. kept the stock cam, although i wish i coulda replaced it. and i got arp rod bolts. spent lil over 900 bucks on total cost including gaskets and engine paint. engine ran strong, put it my 68 fairlane, with longtubes, eddy performer intake, holley 6410 750 vac secondary carb, c4, 9inch w 3.25 gears into the low 9s in the eighth. it was no rocket ship by any means but it ran good and i did it all myself. i was so stoked cause i did most of the work myself. 5.0 mustangs are very easy to work on. for the op, i would recommend just a 306 build. stock internals will handle some decent power. seen many put a blower on a stock short block, not to mention countless hci setups goin on, all done with a stock shortblock.

get yourself a factory ford shop manual and study it over. use it a guide and it will explain how to check your oil clearances for the bearings, your ring gaps, torque specs. make sure you have a decent torque wrench in hand. i recommend the clicker torque wrench. you can use plastigauge to check your clearances on your bearings. take ur time and triple check everything. the first time you hear it crank, it will definitely put a huge smile on your face.

Preach it guy.
Gotta love taking that "junk from the yard" and "abused motors" or those "rode hard 5.0's" and giving them a good run over and taking them to the strip and forcing some poor schmuck to endure your shit eating grin cause you just waxed his high dollar pro built "beast" with a back yard clunker. IMO just my .02

 

[RycheGT]

OK well let me rephrase I guess. It most likely wont be straight from the YARD but probably off of Craigslist. Dude I cant really Spend 700 dollars on the block I dont think. I know Its all refurbished and special and all that B.S, But I can Get a running motor for like 300-400 tops. I have seen people build up Junkyard motors and they have lasted for more than a year

Let me break this down for you. Im actually doing both. So Im using a 2000 Explorer GT40P engine as a stop gap for my dead tired 150k mile 302. Ive done the bare minimum to this engine to make sure its good for the next 2 yrs or so. I still have over a grand in it. That includes buying it, new gaskets, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, TFS 1 cam, upgraded springs, and any other misc bs you can think of. I almost had the heads ported, but talked myself out of it since its not staying in the car.

Im also putting together a 74 351. Ive managed to have the machine work done, and that alone was almost $300. My internals will cost me another grand, not to mention heads, etc.

Now youre talking stroker motor. That requires custom machine work for clearance for the rotating assembly to clear. Stroker kits are becoming reasonable, but thats still another $700 for a quality kit. Now youll want a pro to assemble it because strokers require a tad more attention to detail. So lets add some of this up....

$600 for machine work
$700 for kit
$500 for assembly (this is a guess havnt had to pay for that in yrs)
$300 for head work
$200 for cam
$100 for valve springs
$60 for timing chain

so $2460 and youre not done yet.... yet you say you cant fork ver $700 for a ready short block???

Now just looking at that # makes me positive its waaaaaaay to conservative. A good short block from a reputable shop (CHP, fordstrokers) will cost a bit more than that.

You need to sit down call around and price everything out before making a decision. Im not trying to tell you not to build an engine, but as a beginner you need to know exactly what youre about to pay out. Do your homework kid.

 

[fastgtfairlane]

if you didnt go with a stroker kit you could save the 700 bucks and reuse the stock rods and crank. you can recondition the crank, have it checked, chamfer the oil flow holes. shot peen the rods and balance everything. i would say about 900 to 1200 dollars on a short block for a complete short block including gaskets, seals, etc... obviously the later being you purchasing a shortblock. you cant buy that anywhere. obviously some of us are on different mechanical ability levels than others or may not have the necessary tools to do the job right.

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

I've already decided against this.... I am not going to worry about my motor until It breaks. Until then my main purchase will be some kinda of forced induction. Dont go and say aww you bitched out lol cuz I'd rather just fork out that 3099 for a kenne bellor bg turbo.... and make hella power until that bish blows up then I might worry about rebuildin or whatever.... I will cross that bridge when I get there,. Right now im just tryin to make this car look decent and go faster with the power thats already there.

 

[BlkoutGT]

I've already decided against this.... I am not going to worry about my motor until It breaks. Until then my main purchase will be some kinda of forced induction. Dont go and say aww you bitched out lol cuz I'd rather just fork out that 3099 for a kenne bellor bg turbo.... and make hella power until that bish blows up then I might worry about rebuildin or whatever.... I will cross that bridge when I get there,. Right now im just tryin to make this car look decent and go faster with the power thats already there.

Thats the easiest thing to do. with alot less headaches. :thumbsup:

 

[LAFENATU]

You can get a stock shortblock 331/347 from jim @ fordstrokers for $1999 I believe.

www.fordstrokers.comhttp://

 

[94 Sn-95GT]

You can get a stock shortblock 331/347 from jim @ fordstrokers for $1999 I believe.

www.fordstrokers.comhttp://http://http://

He's in the process of moving into a bigger shop with bigger and better machinery :headbang:

Think he said he'd be functional by monday

 

[LAFENATU]

I am not going to worry about my motor until It breaks.

EXACTLY.

There are people with 150K + miles and there motors still run strong making 130+ compression. Run it until it is done and gives up. I know too many people where the engine hits 100,000 miles and omgomgomgomgomg!!! they're already looking for shortblocks.

Change the oil every 3000-5000, give it tune-ups when needed and the motor should go for a long time.

 

[Cloud]

A good idea would be to look at online catalogs, ads in magazines, or get a free Mustangs Unlimited catalog- you can check out prices on lots of things. BTW, engine isn't the only thing you want to waste money on- you have to think about the big picture.

FYI, my 94 GT just hit 209,000 miles- pretty much no problems at all, except for one thing. I have straight pipes (stock manifolds, O/R H-pipe, random pipes welded without mufflers) and since I've had the o/r h-pipe put on, besides it being loud as hell, I'm starting to see some white smoke at WOT, along with a slight burning smell. I can't figure it out.

 

[50HorsePlay]

I am not going to worry about my motor until It breaks.

EXACTLY.

There are people with 150K + miles and there motors still run strong making 130+ compression. Run it until it is done and gives up. I know too many people where the engine hits 100,000 miles and omgomgomgomgomg!!! they're already looking for shortblocks.

Change the oil every 3000-5000, give it tune-ups when needed and the motor should go for a long time.

EXACTLY. My 95 cobra alone has 188k on it and runs strong. Original motor. No internal work what-so-ever. Compression is still good , no blow-by. MY 95 gt had 202k and ran just as strong as it did the day it rolled out. That is before it was totaled by a semi. Run what you have. modify some things here and there. Most importantly though, do what you feel is right and have fun with your stang!!!!!!