IF YOU LIKE YOUR CAR!!!!!

voidfinger

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well i guess i'll check into it. i was thinking of starting using the synthetic and the mobel 1 filter and keeping it in there on my cars for like 8-10k miles
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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I only use Motorcraft filters unless for some ridiculous reason I can't find them(now that I deleted my stupid cobra oil cooler I don't have to hunt around for FL300s anymore so this won't be an issue) I'll use a Napa(WIX) or Purolator filter.
 

Venom351R

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voidfinger said:
wow 6 quarts of that can get pretty $$$ costly

Yeah it can but I plan on going to the track a lot this summer and when I go I dont baby it. Im sure running Mobi 1 would be just fine and I always have run it but Im just doing this for the peice of mind. I figure one oil change a summer w/ a K&N Filter is worth it. If someone else changes their oil twice with mobil 1 then Im still spending less then them over all. I dont drive the car a ton its not a dailly driver. Mostly go to car shows, drag strip, and to work on the weekends every now and then when Im working the weekend.
 

blackpony

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im partial to mobil 1.... pulled my motor outta my fox years ago to replace a few things (gaskets, etc) and noticed the color of the metals crank, rods, etc and after about a year or so i pulled it in favor of a fresh 302 and when i pulled the oil pan again the internals looked cleaner then when i pulled it the first time... i bet it was cleaner then the day it was put thgeather... i was highly impressed... not to mention thats all i used in my dirt track race cars and never once had to re bearing or re ring it in over 4 years of hard racing because there was almost virtually no wear.... just my 2 cents
 

Mr.Bolt-on

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Mobil 1 is a great oil, it is an affirmative bad idea to not change your oil for 15,000 miles though. Fram filters are great, and I've used both motorcraft and Fram. I'm not going back to the motocraft though, simply because you can't grip it as easily as a Fram filter. The only people I've personally witnessed that have used Fram filters that failed were complete morons, and relied on Wal-Mart, and other places to do oil changes for them. Then again thats only the people I've seen complaining about them. Thats not to say there are people who have actually changed their own oil themselves that have had problems with them, because their probably are some.
 

blackpony

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i can say that from my experience in parts stores that fram is junk... we had a rep come down and was showing us the difference between the different filters and the fram contained the less material and had the poorest construction... i wont use anything but motorcraft or mobil 1 filters... just my .02
 

Mr.Bolt-on

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I agree Blackpony, the motorcraft does feel like the better quality, and better constructed oil filter. I'd love it if ford put that grip type stuff on their motorcraft filters. If the motorcraft had better grip, I'd switch to it in a heartbeat.
 

wytstang

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Use Amsoil in the transmission and motorcraft in the motor. I strongly suggest sending your used oil out to be lab tested to see if you can either go farther between oil changes or change it sooner. These test are affordable and most importantly can tell you if something is mechanically wrong (or going bad I should say). They check the metal content and if you have a bearing going bad, the test will show high metal content and you can catch if (hopefully) before it lets go.
Quick story:
I sent my used oil to be tested at Black Stone Labs. Report comes back awesome with just a small note noting more fuel then they would like. They said it could be from stop and go traffic or something else. Decided to inspect my spark plugs and low and behold #8 injector was squirting onto the spark plug saturating it, it was not burning the fuel properly. Swapped out injectors and burns fine now. Best of all my Motorcraft oil held up great @5000 miles using a FL1A filter. They even said I could go 6000 miles and retest but it should be fine.
 

wytstang

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Here's my oil sample report (www.blackstone-labs.com)
OILSAMPLE1.jpg

OILSAMPLE2.jpg
 

blackpony

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kool i diddent know that you could send in your oil to have it tested... how much does it cost and where do you send it???
 

wytstang

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"Our standard analysis costs $22.50"
I added a TBN test for an extra $10.

"Ok, now for the technical questions. What is a TBN?
A TBN (total base number) measures the amount of active additive left in a sample of oil. The TBN is useful for people who want to extend their oil usage far beyond the normal range."
Everything you need to know is on there website www.blackstone-labs.com
 

MustangChris

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i used RP once.... it made my car smoke a little... switched back to Moble 1, not a problem.

i run royal purple in everything else though (diffy, trans, etc.)

the reason i run moble 1 is because i read a report put out by a college professor doing a check on the performance of the oils, and moble 1 was #1... penzoil was the lowest. lol
 

blackpony

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yea my moms 85 chevy used a little oil so i started using pennsoil in it and after a few months it quit... after about 2 years i did a motor swap and the thing was so sludged up i couldnt believe it...
 

Rice_slayer

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Sorry to revive this thread(somewhat) but I got Amsoil 75w90 full synthetic diff. oil for my gear swap and was wondering if it's any good? It was that or castrol Syntec...
 

mikey94gt

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I ran royal purple in my trans, then blew two up. I now run Valvoline Dextron3, like it is supposed to, havent had a problem since. some engine builders hate that purple stuff, btw.

and here is the article that AMS did to test all the other oils. I dunno if it is biased twoards ams or not, but here it is

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/index.aspx
 
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mustangspartan

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I love the stuff put it in my dodge ram 4x4 and with my tunner started to get about 18 mpg on an 01 with a 5.9
 

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