Is there a way to test o2 sensors? (KOEO)

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by A_+, Feb 19, 2014.

  1. A_+

    A_+ Member

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    I'm thinking they need to be replaced but I can't find a damn auto store to check my engine light. They're telling me that there scanner won't connect or sync with my car. I verified that they are using an obd1 tool. Can I test the sensor with a multimeter? I found something online telling me how to check it from the computer on the pasanger side but I didn't understand it to well....tia
     
  2. PonyGlued

    PonyGlued New Member

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    Yes it o2 can be tested with a multimeter but your below the car and it would need to be running,not fun! Why not just do a self test to pull the codes, after all it could be anything, and maybe not the O2 sensors. o2's last about 60k miles
     
  3. A_+

    A_+ Member

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    self test, you say?
    the sensors and wires appear to be in good shape and i hate replacing parts that dont need to be replaced but maybe i should with this one. the sensors have a ford stamp on them so im thinking theyve been on here for a while. i just might have to read up on how these sensors work. does anyone one know if im not running cats, will that cause my sensors to malfunction prematurely?
     
  4. PonyGlued

    PonyGlued New Member

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  5. A_+

    A_+ Member

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    Thanks again dude. you really helped me out! here are the results: (test was conducted with CHIP set at "stock mode")

    KOEO- 327 - DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts (i guess since the egr is deleted but i guess its ok because the chip makes it all better when in performance mode?)

    The first time i ran the KOER, it gave me a 136 - o2 Sensor circuit indicates system lean (left side) but it didnt come back up the 2nd or 3rd time i tried it.
    KOER:
    327 - DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts
    314 - Thermactor air system inoperative (left side)
    311 - Thermactor air system inoperative (right side)

    i thought i kept getting my numbers wrong so at the 3rd try, i took a vid. The first code is 314, then 311. Then it gives me 322 followed by another 2. What is that?
     
  6. PonyGlued

    PonyGlued New Member

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    Thanks man...can't help you with those last numbers though, maybe do a Google search
     
  7. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    314 311 is because your smog has been deleted..
     
  8. A_+

    A_+ Member

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    And the holes in the back of the heads are exposed, right? I can't tell if there's a therm plug back there but I bought some bolts to squeeze in there....
     
  9. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    I don't know. It's possible. Stick your hand back there.. if they are exposed you will have a leak..
     
  10. A_+

    A_+ Member

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    it feels exposed but i was under the impression that the therm plug was hollow
     
  11. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    It is..
     
  12. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    But you should be able to tell. The plug has two slots on each side..
     
  13. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    If you can fit a 7/8x14 bolt it has the plug in. If you can fit 5/8x11 bolt you don't have a plug..
     
  14. A_+

    A_+ Member

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    A 7/16 fits 3/4 of the way
     
  15. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    Then you got plugs
     
  16. A_+

    A_+ Member

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    Damn it! I was all up in the hardware store going in and out and checking for the right bolt. Till I ended up calling trickflow and asked them what bolt will fit. I'm really starting to wonder why this car runs like shit. Idle doesn't surge (much) anymore. Only when it gets hot.
    So pretty much, these codes don't mean shit since the tune tells the computer everything is ok?
    I should have never sold my fox :(
     
  17. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    Ha.. pretty much..
     
  18. A_+

    A_+ Member

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    I've been thinking about taking it to andy at prime tuning but I honestly feel like it wouldn't help.....I'll probably put this ***** up for a while....
     
  19. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    Did you ever change your TB..
     
  20. A_+

    A_+ Member

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    Nah,just made sure the blade wasn't getting stuck and the bore fitment was good. I put an IAC I had laying around and my idle problems stopped. I lol'd because the idle started hanging again today....but just a lite bit. I also sprayed down the maf and iat (I think) and it seemed to run a little better. These are all bandaids I'm sure. Its slowly starting to run like poop again....