LCAs OR Tires for Track Traction?

[GDawg]

I don't think I've posted this question on this board before...

Okay guys, I have Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3s on my car. And I have H&R Supersport springs. The car's low to the ground and the tires were really incredible for the twisties. But then I put a Kenne Bell SuperCharger in my car and got hooked on the 1/4 mile track.

For the life of me I can't get my F1s to stick to the track with all my power. I have horrible 60' times but the rest is great. I need to change something by next racing season but can only afford one thing and nothing more. I don't want to change the springs out to Race springs just yet. Some people have told me to get drag radials and some say if I just get some adjustable LCAs that will solve the problem. Remember, I can only afford one thing for this by next spring (plus I'm going to put a different pulley on my supercharger to bump the HP up even more).

Suggestions and comments... (and please vote in the poll)

 

[duh09]

I voted Drag Radials...

I can't see as much diffrence in getting traction with the LCAs. I'm no expert, or anything even close to that, but sticky tires seem to be the best thing in my head. lol

 

[Paul]

Drag radials. No question.

 

[94 DropTop]

tires

 

[SRT Handz]

the drag radials will help more on grip....but the stock LCAs are like scary Junk.

 

[justinschmidt1]

definately tires...the LCA's will help the 60 foot but wont magically make junk tires hook.


I would say both

 

[Steven]

I ran 1.90 60ft's on straight up street tires with just control arms.

 

[Dalamar]

tires first, then LCA's

 

[Paul]

the drag radials will help more on grip....but the stock LCAs are like scary Junk.

Which is why hundreds of thousands of mustangs drive around on them every day with no issues.

 

[GDawg]

definately tires...the LCA's will help the 60 foot but wont magically make junk tires hook.

I would say both

I wouldn't say Eagle F1s are junk tires. They just can't handle the power I have and the "no weight transfer" I have.

So what DRs would you recommend on a stock 9x17 wheel? I can't afford to get 10.5" wheels just yet. Are Nittos really that good? Maybe later when I can afford a 10.5" wheel I'll put ET DRs on but don't want them too sticky to break anything in the rearend.

 

[Paul]

I drive daily on 275/40/17 Nitto DRs and they work like a champ. They won't hook as hard at the track as a set of BFGs or Mickey Thompson, but they will last longer than those tires too.

Paul.

 

[Steven]

the drag radials will help more on grip....but the stock LCAs are like scary Junk.

Which is why hundreds of thousands of mustangs drive around on them every day with no issues.

ahaha

 

[OnyxCobra]

the drag radials will help more on grip....but the stock LCAs are like scary Junk.

Which is why hundreds of thousands of mustangs drive around on them every day with no issues.

this made me lol

 

[SRT Handz]

Which is why hundreds of thousands of mustangs drive around on them every day with no issues.

Paul, i think you of all people should know how shitty stock LCAs are. I mean, Ford knew that the LCAs suck and flex alot, thats why they added the quad shock. To band-aid the problem instead of re-designing the LCA. those little rain gutter things are just not capable of having control of rear end.

Yes you are right that thousands of mustangs drive with them everyday..... but then so many mustangs crash because of snap oversteer....

 

[Steven]

no, the typical person who wrecks a mustang can't straight up drive. The amount of teenage girls driving mustangs is ridiculous and its typically them that crash. The quad shock with the LCAs from the factory do there job for they were made for. Ford had no intention of Susie Q bookin it out to the drag strip in her GT to launch at 6k rpms on drag radials.

 

[GDawg]

So school me some more here guys.... I thought our stock 17" wheels were 9" wide. Or are they 8" wide? And if I were to put some Nitto 555R DRs in a 275/40-17 would I need to take my 25mm rear wheel spacers off? I really need something for the next racing season. I'm sure by late season I could add some new LCAs.

 

[LI98GT]

So school me some more here guys.... I thought our stock 17" wheels were 9" wide. Or are they 8" wide? And if I were to put some Nitto 555R DRs in a 275/40-17 would I need to take my 25mm rear wheel spacers off? I really need something for the next racing season. I'm sure by late season I could add some new LCAs.

No, you wouldn't need to take them off. I run wheel spacers with the stock 17s, which are 8" wide, so the 275/40s work fine. Nittos do the job fairly well and was able to cut a 1.9 60', but I'm far from your power/torque output.

 

[SRT Handz]

GDawg, right now you have Split Spoke 17x8 inch wheels.

275 on a 8 inch wheel bulges to much . The biggest you should go on a 8 inch wheel is 255


Thats just my opinion

 

[LI98GT]

I posted in the following thread if you want some additional feedback on running them from others as well as posted some pics if you want to see what they look like mounted.

http://sn95forums.com/index.php?topic=31937.msg562316#msg562316

 

[Paul]

Paul, i think you of all people should know how shitty stock LCAs are. I mean, Ford knew that the LCAs suck and flex alot, thats why they added the quad shock. To band-aid the problem instead of re-designing the LCA. those little rain gutter things are just not capable of having control of rear end.

Yes you are right that thousands of mustangs drive with them everyday..... but then so many mustangs crash because of snap oversteer....

Handz, unlike you I actually understand rear suspension, not just what MM has on their website.

The quad shock is in place because of the fundamental flaw in the design of the rear suspension, specifically the upper control arms. It is also there to reduce wheelhop because of smushy bushings. When cornering hard, the upper control arms are put into strange position. One of them needs to get longer (the "outside" arm) because the axle is twisting away from the car, whereas the inside arm needs to get shorter because the axle is twisting toward the chassis. Unfortunately, the uppers cannot change length - this results in bind and wheel rate increasing a couple thousands percent immediately. THAT is the primary cause of snap oversteer.

Guess what, replacing the lower control arms won't make snap oversteer go away. Even a car equipped with your beloved MM LCAs will still have snap oversteer. Further, if people are wrecking their cars because of snap oversteer, then they're driving like jackasses and probably deserve it.

Stop posting tech Handz. You don't know what you're talking about.

This guy wants to go straight, and asked what is better - tires or LCAs. The answer, without question, unequivocally, is tires.

Paul.