Leaking ABS module

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Wife noticed a puddle under my GT today. Clear, oily, smells like brake fluid and it's directly under the ABS module. But there's no sign of any leak on the module that I can see. All the lines are tight and clean. Brake fluid is low, but not alarmingly so. Haven't had any problems with the brakes. The only thing I can think of is that one of the lines has a leak. But that would result in quick brake failure and I can't even conceive how it would happen in the first place. Not like I was running the Rubicon and snagged it on a rock. There's nothing else right there to leak. We looked all over, no sign of any leak anywhere in the engine bay. It's just dripping off the bottom of the rad support. I'm going to get some brake fluid tomorrow, top it off, and have my wife mash the pedal while I look around. If anyone has any thoughts on the culprit, I'd be glad to hear them.

I'm thinking of spending the $75 to get the ABS delete block from LMR. But I'm thinking a less shadetree option would be an adjustable proportioning valve from Wilwood. That would bolt right to the master cylinder and let me reroute/simplify the lines. My big problem with the ABS delete block is that it doesn't seem to have a mounting point, it just relies on the lines to hold it in place. That's begging for a fatigue failure in the lines. I can't think of a downside to the proportioning valve other than the need to test to get it set right. Anyone already running a proportioning valve? They offer them to fit either side of the MC. Not sure which side would be best.

Yes, I am aware both these options would eliminate the ABS and traction control. I'm fine with that. I grew up before those things existed, I'll be just fine without them.
 
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SouthernGorilla
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Well, things have taken a turn. Topped off the brake fluid, had my wife pump the pedal, nothing. Took the car around the block to see if anything happened. Lo and behold, the low coolant light was on. Wasn't on yesterday when we were driving around. And apparently the previous owner used universal, pre-mixed coolant which happens to be perfectly clear instead of dyed. I know this because that's what I used to top off the rad. So now I just have to worry about what's suddenly causing me to puke coolant. No big deal, right?

I also learned something while searching for the problem. I had assumed the proportioning has handled inside the ABS module. Didn't realize there was already a combo valve under the master cylinder. That takes away the big objection I had with the ABS delete block. Now I won't hesitate to delete the ABS. But first I have to solve the problem that inspired this thread.
 

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