So to make a long story short, I bought a parts lot off a guy that had a ton of stuff I wanted, particularly a rear end and torque arm setup. In that lot came these calipers and proper bracketry to make them work. I needed a brake upgrade regardless (car makes over 600, built 5.4 turbo on e85). My stock single pot steel 96 calipers were not cutting it. Since I had these calipers for almost nothing, it was worth it to use them for the "cool" factor. Pads arent that bad for it being a 6 inch pad. 150/set for Hawk HPS street pads. The car will also see some R888R's this year and may get a spirited day or two at a local road course. Now I don't have to fear anything but keeping my engine cool on those days. Also because when I show up to a cruise in with brake rotors filling the front AND back, its cool as fuck hahaha.Great thread with a lot of good information, but I have to ask ... Why? Especially since a few posts back you say the car will be 95% street-driven. 14-inch top hats at 1.25 in thick will add a ton of unsprung weight and rotational mass, and unless you plan to run 345's on all four corners (yes, I know you can't), your brakes will likely far exceed the ability of the tires to stay stuck to the pavement.
(If you say "because it'll be cool," that's fine with me.)![]()
There is no kit for these calipers on an SN95. The brackets I have were all custom made by the previous owner who was the owner of the parts lot that I bought. He had a pretty wild Sn95 that he autocrossed, even had SLA front suspension. I was able to buy all his extras when his family sold out the remnants of mustang parts. The car was sold some years ago after the owner passed away. The amount of brackets I have that are the same size tells me that when he had them made, he had to buy a full order to get them done. I have enough caliper brackets to field an entire nascar race.Is the 14” rear setup an actual kit, or using fabricated brackets to mount a front setup in the rear?
I have no ABS as well, but my car came that way from factory. Obviously with just the stock proportioning valve, I expect to be well over bias'd to the rear. But I plan on dialing that back with the wilwood valve in addition to the OEM one. Haven't got a chance to see what my output pressures are yet as I threw my back out over the weekend and I'm letting it recover.Great thread.
When I had the simple, Baer +1 13” rear rotor kit the bias was always heavily to the rear. Further adding to the problem (that I created) was using 43mm (Taurus) rear calipers and track day pads. Switched to stock pads and it was still rear biased. Initially was going to add a Wilwood bias adjuster but ultimately switched to stock rear brakes/pads. Only then, did the car stop “evenly”.
My total set up consists of 97 Cobra hydroboost, 14” rotors and 44/40 Brembo calipers aaaand no ABS (another misstep)
your missing the abs now?My total set up consists of 97 Cobra hydroboost, 14” rotors and 44/40 Brembo calipers aaaand no ABS (another misstep)
your missing the abs now?
I am just surprised as anyone I know that takes if off swears that they can do such a better job as if they came off the F1 circuit last year winning the championship.Deleted. I’m going to restore it.
I am just surprised as anyone I know that takes if off swears that they can do such a better job as if they came off the F1 circuit last year winning the championship.
I know modern ABS is much much better due to faster processors and solenoids, but the 99-04 ABS wasn't too bad in my opinion. I've autoXed with it and didn't find it to be a burden. Of course i know HPDE is a different animal. I've had a GT500 on track and absolutely thrashed it and while you could tell the nanny aides were there, they were definitely not overbearing.
Soon. As you can hear in that video I still need to button up the exhaust. I'm not a bullhorn bumper dump kind of guy.Interesting. When will you be driving it to see how it feels?
Seems to drive well. Brakes work very nice, pedal is a hair softer than oem but I relate that to moving more fluid. Managed to lock up the right front a few times while testing them. Bias adjustment sees to be working as it should. Dialed in some rear and managed to lock up the right rear. Took the adjustment back out hahaha.interesting the amount of reduction you got through the two valves in series. Have you driven it yet?
Edit: nevermind saw your last post.
That’s awesome! I’m really glad to hear that.Seems to drive well. Brakes work very nice, pedal is a hair softer than oem but I relate that to moving more fluid. Managed to lock up the right front a few times while testing them. Bias adjustment sees to be working as it should. Dialed in some rear and managed to lock up the right rear. Took the adjustment back out hahaha.