LEDs

Adfalenski

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For turn signals with a regular flasher, if you have a LED bulb installed somewhere mixed with incandescent bulbs with a regular flasher, it will throw off the flashing speed on whichever side it is installed. It is best to use either all incandescent or all LED bulbs on both sides. If you use all LED bulbs, you must use either load resistors or a LED capable flasher unit for turn signals. I recommend the LED flasher unit because it uses a digital timer and relay in the module instead of lamp system resistance. The solid state flasher module will last a lifetime and always maintains the same flash speed. I am currently running all LEDs and the solid state flasher in my 2000 Mustang. Another nice thing about the using a LED flasher is that if you have a LED fail, you can still use an incandescent bulb until you can get a replacement turn signal LED.

The nice thing about LEDs is the way you can customize your lighting. My front running lights/turn signals are dual color leds. The running lights are white but flash amber. Whenever replacing incandescent bulbs with LEDs, it is best if you use the same color LEDs as the position where it installed. For instance, green LEDs for the instrument panel green indicators, red LEDs for red indicators and the red instrument indicator needles, amber LEDs for the amber indicators, etc.

If you are going LEDs for taillights, it is recommended but not always possible to run red LEDs. As for interior lights, my instrument cluster has all LEDs EXCEPT for the high beam (the blue LED was just too bright). When you get white LEDs, remember that there are different colors of white. 6000k white is ice white whereas 4000k is incandescent white. The higher the number, the closer to blue the color will be. The lower the number, the closer to red the color will be. Light colors are measured on the Kelvin scale(think color wheel - infrared the lowest and ultraviolet the highest).

One of the other advantages for using LEDs is that you reduce the load on your alternator so you have more electrical headspace for accessories.


As for fog lights, LEDs are better than incandescent(or halogen) bulbs but if you are going for bright, I use a HID bulb system. Again, it is best to get the color of fog light bulbs that you want.

If you have problems, solutions, or information on LEDs, please add to this thread with your comments so that we can have a place for those of us who are doing LED conversions.
 
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Bitza

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Thanks for this write up. I think it explains part of what is going wrong with my 95GT, export version, I'm down in New Zealand.

Firstly I must say I did buy canbus leds.

I put 3157 leds in the front indicators, and left incandescent in the rear and it all worked good. When i put 3156 or 3157 in the rear the flasher started doing wierd shit, slow then fast then slow, etc etc, but they did light up. Looks like I'm in for a led type flasher, would this be a correct assumption?

The other one that has me stumped is 3157 in the brake/tailights, with the lights on, when I push the brake pedal there is bugger all extra light coming from them. Do you know what's happening there?
 

ttocs

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so a can-bus led is designed to work in a car that uses a can-communication system. This is for cars made 20+ yrs after ours where rather than using a 12v input to flash it uses a data system so that a few wires going between basically every single electrical component in the car so that if something does go out even a bulb it will report on the main screen.
 

Bitza

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so a can-bus led is designed to work in a car that uses a can-communication system. This is for cars made 20+ yrs after ours where rather than using a 12v input to flash it uses a data system so that a few wires going between basically every single electrical component in the car so that if something does go out even a bulb it will report on the main screen.


ttocs,

Cheers.

So swapping the canbus 3156/3157 out for plain 3156/3157 leds and changing the flasher unit to a LED version should fix the problems with the indicators and "dim" brake lights?
 

Bitza

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ttocs,

Also, have ordered dome lights, 41mm canbus, guess I need sit them aside too?
 

ttocs

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ttocs,

Also, have ordered dome lights, 41mm canbus, guess I need sit them aside too?
well maybe. They are easy enough to try out.
ttocs,

Also, have ordered dome lights, 41mm canbus, guess I need sit them aside too?
maybe. Those are easy enough to swap out to find out but I would keep the old ones till yer sure they are not doing anything weird.
 

Werecow

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I know this is an apples and oranges deal, but on my 2004 sport-trak I swapped out all the bulbs inside mine for regular LEDs and have not had any issues.. That's dome lights, and dash lights as well. Hell I've swapped out all the lights on it to LEDs except the turn signals and brake lights. I've not touched those just because of the canbus issue. I don't wanna get into a big mess with those because of that. It doesn't have a "light is out" warning type system so I may be ok swapping em out but I've just not messed with it yet.. But like I said in the beginning this is apples and oranges comparison.. Only reason I bring it up is it's a 2004 model ford and being a newer model than almost all sn-95's this is the results I have so far with using LEDs, so I'm thinking that most Fords older than this shouldn't have any issues with the places I mentioned..
 

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