Looking into nitrous

v6stang3215

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I was seriously considering buying a blower, but then I came to the idea of nitrous. The only reason I didn't want to go with a blower is because I did not want constant strain on the engine. Now my goal is to hit 350 rwhp for my daily driving, then when I go to the track I'd like to run a 100 shot. I think that this will be the best option for a daily driver. My car already has a good couple of mods
95 cobra

347 stroker
cobra heads(will be upgrading to afr 185's or equivalent)
cobra intake(will be porting)
Comp cams Magnum 270 cam
bbk shorty header/offroad h/slp lm1 catback
K&N intake
MGW short throw shifter
UCA's and LCA's
subframe connectors

Once i finish up the heads and intake I will be looking into nitrous. Now what exactly should I be looking for when shopping for a nitrous kit. wet or dry? What kind of shot is safe to run? What all is needed? Just trying to get a solid plan for my car once I have finished up the engine. Thanks guys

-Matt
 

LAFENATU

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v6stang3215 said:
I was seriously considering buying a blower, but then I came to the idea of nitrous. The only reason I didn't want to go with a blower is because I did not want constant strain on the engine. Now my goal is to hit 350 rwhp for my daily driving, then when I go to the track I'd like to run a 100 shot. I think that this will be the best option for a daily driver. My car already has a good couple of mods
95 cobra

347 stroker
cobra heads(will be upgrading to afr 185's or equivalent)
cobra intake(will be porting)
Comp cams Magnum 270 cam
bbk shorty header/offroad h/slp lm1 catback
K&N intake
MGW short throw shifter
UCA's and LCA's
subframe connectors

Once i finish up the heads and intake I will be looking into nitrous. Now what exactly should I be looking for when shopping for a nitrous kit. wet or dry? What kind of shot is safe to run? What all is needed? Just trying to get a solid plan for my car once I have finished up the engine. Thanks guys

-Matt

I think your going to be around 350-375 RWHP with the AFR combo you mentioned as long as your final compression is around 10:1 I would also recommend looking into a custom cam. If your willing to go through all that, spend the extra ~$100 and get a custom ground cam.

www.camshaftinnovation.comhttp:// or www.flowtechinduction.comhttp:// are the 2 places I would recommend.

As far as Nitrous is concerned, I always recommend a wet kit. Dry kits are injector dependent and you can't make as much power.

Nitrous Express makes a great kit that comes with everything needed. I wouldn't go more than a 100-125 shot on a 347. The block has already been stressed enough with the stroker kit.


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v6stang3215

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Yeah I will be running 10:1 compression. My goal is for 350 rwhp so anything else is just gravy. I do want to upgrade the cam, but it is kind or the last thing to do on my list. When I do upgrade the cam it will definitely be a custom grind. Do you happen to have a link to that kit? I was thinking 100 would be the max I want to run for the very reason you stated.
 

LAFENATU

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v6stang3215 said:
Yeah I will be running 10:1 compression. My goal is for 350 rwhp so anything else is just gravy. I do want to upgrade the cam, but it is kind or the last thing to do on my list. When I do upgrade the cam it will definitely be a custom grind. Do you happen to have a link to that kit? I was thinking 100 would be the max I want to run for the very reason you stated.

Keep in mind the prices on the NX site are their retail prices. You can get these kits cheaper.

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/product-details.php?id=906

Part Number: 20922-10

FORD STAGE 1 EFI SINGLE NOZZLE SYSTEM (35-50-75-100-150 HP) WITH 10LB BOTTLE

20922-10.jpg


I would also suggest the Gen X 2 kit with it.

GENX-2.jpg


Gen-X 2 kit includes: fully automatic bottle heater with pressure transducer, 35PSI fuel pressure safety switch, liquid filled N2O pressure gauge, NHRA approved pressure release fitting, NHRA approved blow down tube, all the electrical connectors and wire needed to complete the installation. Includes all of the above plus a purge valve for the NX Lightning Series or NX Ice-Man solenoids.
 

blown98gt

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you can run stock injectors but i'd say go 39/42lb and upgrade your fuel pump
 

stang4u2nv

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I'm sorry but i do not agree with the idea that a wet kit is safer than a dry kit. anyhow, of course the dry kit depends on the injectors, so does everything else.... Plus it is a proven fact that a dry kit will make far more torque than a wet kit. now the story is a little different if you have a direct port system. i'm a fan of not having a pool of fuel inside my intake manifold. miss shift+fuel in your intake and say bye bye to your car.....in your case sir a properly installed and tuned dry shot with lets say a 125hp shot since you already have a 347 should be more than enough to reach well into the 450+ hp zone.....just my 0.02
 

LAFENATU

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stang4u2nv said:
I'm sorry but i do not agree with the idea that a wet kit is safer than a dry kit. anyhow, of course the dry kit depends on the injectors, so does everything else....

What happens if an injector fails?

stang4u2nv said:
Plus it is a proven fact that a dry kit will make far more torque than a wet kit.

Nitrous is a torque monster period. A wet kit is going to make more than enough of torque as it is.

stang4u2nv said:
i'm a fan of not having a pool of fuel inside my intake manifold. miss shift+fuel in your intake and say bye bye to your car.....

Wide Open Throttle switch is a beautiful thing.
 

WarMachine762

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stang4u2nv said:
I'm sorry but i do not agree with the idea that a wet kit is safer than a dry kit. anyhow, of course the dry kit depends on the injectors, so does everything else.... Plus it is a proven fact that a dry kit will make far more torque than a wet kit. now the story is a little different if you have a direct port system. i'm a fan of not having a pool of fuel inside my intake manifold. miss shift+fuel in your intake and say bye bye to your car.....in your case sir a properly installed and tuned dry shot with lets say a 125hp shot since you already have a 347 should be more than enough to reach well into the 450+ hp zone.....just my 0.02

Uhm I think every single person in the Industry would disagree with you, and why would a dry kit make more torque?? A 100 shot is a 100 shot. Why don't some people understand that?? Your putting enough fuel and N20 in your engine to make another 100 horsepower, period end of story. Dry kits are are like a super entry level system. I don't know one person that has hurt an engine using nitrous properly, if you miss shift and blow your burst panel out like John Force then your a dumb ass for not having a window switch and a wide open throttle shift. Just get an A/f Gauge too bro, its cheap insurance. If your using this stuff you wanna know whats goin on, and a gauge is a hell of alot easier to read then a plug.
 

70 cutlass 442

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stang4u2nv said:
I'm sorry but i do not agree with the idea that a wet kit is safer than a dry kit. anyhow, of course the dry kit depends on the injectors, so does everything else.... Plus it is a proven fact that a dry kit will make far more torque than a wet kit. now the story is a little different if you have a direct port system. i'm a fan of not having a pool of fuel inside my intake manifold. miss shift+fuel in your intake and say bye bye to your car.....in your case sir a properly installed and tuned dry shot with lets say a 125hp shot since you already have a 347 should be more than enough to reach well into the 450+ hp zone.....just my 0.02

First, with a DRY kit your are relying on the 02 to make precise fuel enrichment calculations to add the needed fuel to make power. do you realize how shitty OBDI ANYTHING is? Second, i have never herd that a dry will make more torque over a wet system, the principal of the two systems is the same, add more O2 so you can get more FUEL into the cyls, weather its done via the factory injectors, or a fogger nozzle.... they are both the same. Third, its very unlikely that he will have ANY issues with fuel puddling in the intake if he has a windows switch lets say to shut the fuel/N20 off before he hit s arev limiter, i understand that you mod motor guys are a little more worried as you have a plastic intake...
 
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